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Blueox01

RV275 Injectors

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Thinking of getting some of these Injectors,thinking mine are due to be replaced. I'm sure i'll notice a increase in power,but more important what can i expect in mileage increase.

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I saw only 0.5-1.0 mpg increase. I didn't do a LOT of testing with them before I pulled them for another issue - but it was a pretty consistent test going home and back on a 4 hour trip.

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i got me a set:thumbup2: brand new still in the blue plastic package in the yellow bosch box.traded a contractor out at work a puck for an 03 for them...he wanted it and i wanted the rv275's he just got it..so happens he has an 01 also.can't wait to get them in.:thumbup2:

--- Update to the previous post...

Posted Image

98.5-2002 Dodge 24 Valve Cummins Bosch RV275HP Injectors

1998.5-2002 (24 Valve Only) Dodge Cummins 5.9L NEW 275hp 24 Valve Injectors.

Add up to 40HP to your 98.5-2002 Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel!

Bosch Part Number: 432193635

Includes copper sealing washers & new o-rings for the injector connector tubes.

Set of 6 injectors, no core charge.

Increases the power by 50 horsepower and 100 lb-ft of torque at the ground on '98-'00 automatics. These same injectors add 33 horsepower and 66 lb-ft at the ground on manuals and '01 automatics. Throttle response and low-end acceleration are definitely improved with this addition. Fuel economy normally improves by 5% with this change. Injectors can be installed within about 3 hours by most do it yourself enthusiasts. These are new Bosch® injectors approved by Cummins® on their 275 hp 660-torque motorhome engines.

These injectors do not wash oil off cylinder walls and dribble at idle like some aftermarket injectors that are modified Bosch® injectors. Some 1998 24 Valve trucks need connector tubes with these injectors, these trucks have an engine serial number below 56462591.

THESE INJECTORS ARE ON A NATION-WIDE BACKORDER!

--- Update to the previous post...

this was from puredieselpower.com site.

--- Update to the previous post...

Need more Horsepower for your 1998 to 2002 Dodge 24 valve engine ?

[*]<LI class=style62>This is a set of 6 NEW Bosch 300 HP injectors Bosch part number 0432193635 <LI class=style62>These are Marine Injectors specifically made for the Cummins 5.9L 24 valve ISB engine. <LI class=style62>These are brand NEW not rebuilt or used... <LI class=style62>These come with a ONE year unlimited mile Warranty!

[*]These are set to give you up to 40 MORE HP!

rv275's

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what are the hp gains from these and would it benefit me to pull my 125's and install these. would i gain better mpg's with these compared to my current injectors???

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Anytime the tach needle pass the 2K mark you can garantee a loss of MPG instantly... Like for me to run 55-60 MPH I see 20-21 MPG everytime... But now to hit the interstat and run 75 MPH which now puts me at 2,200 RPM now I'm down to about 12-14 MPG... Funny... If I stay in 4th gear (1:1 ratio in the trans) and go 45 MPH which is roughly 1,900 RPM's I'm clearing over 25-28 MPG :stuned: But of course that's with 3.55 gears...:rolleyes: The other factor is going from 55 MPH to 65 MPH the wind drag nearly doubles... :wow:

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Anytime the tach needle pass the 2K mark you can garantee a loss of MPG instantly... Like for me to run 55-60 MPH I see 20-21 MPG everytime... But now to hit the interstat and run 75 MPH which now puts me at 2,200 RPM now I'm down to about 12-14 MPG

That whole 2000+ RPM thing being instant drop is a bunch of crap. I know everyone preaches it on every forum but I have never seen an instant drop. I do 70 at 2100rpm and get 21mpg doing it. I got 17mpg pulling the trailer at 70 also. Speed kills MPG, not RPM.

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That is a mystery I can't answer between the 2 trucks... :shrug: Like if I go down to Boise, ID and hit the interstate and drive speed limit everywhere I'll see roughly 16-17 MPG. But now if I avoid the interstate and use all smaller roads and keep my speed down (RPM related too) then MPG's natural rise for me... Now the only thing I could say that might give a clue tha P-pump's don't advance/retard timing but I know that VP44 do retard timing at high RPM's post-2-138698172314_thumb.png As you see for me running high up the RPM scale just retards timing... :rolleyes:

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Anytime the tach needle pass the 2K mark you can garantee a loss of MPG instantly... Like for me to run 55-60 MPH I see 20-21 MPG everytime... But now to hit the interstat and run 75 MPH which now puts me at 2,200 RPM now I'm down to about 12-14 MPG... Funny... If I stay in 4th gear (1:1 ratio in the trans) and go 45 MPH which is roughly 1,900 RPM's I'm clearing over 25-28 MPG :stuned: But of course that's with 3.55 gears...:rolleyes: The other factor is going from 55 MPH to 65 MPH the wind drag nearly doubles... :wow:

I've yet to see > 18mpg, ever, in my vp44 truck. My average DD mileage in the 24v is ~14-16mpg, all city. My p-pumped 12v (turned up) saw 18-20mpg in the same usage.

That whole 2000+ RPM thing being instant drop is a bunch of crap. I know everyone preaches it on every forum but I have never seen an instant drop. I do 70 at 2100rpm and get 21mpg doing it. I got 17mpg pulling the trailer at 70 also. Speed kills MPG, not RPM.

In my 12valve, from Virginia to Long Island, NY, we got 26.9mpg @ 68mph on the way there. On the way back, @ 72-73mph, I got 22mpg. empty, no trailer. My 24v gets ~17-18mph @ 65mph, empty, no trailer. 12v = #10 fuel plate - FF, AFC-FF, 40psi, 16.5*, 4" dp, catless/mufflerless 7" stack, bhaf, nv4500, 241hd, 3.55s, jake 24v = stock everything except bhaf, 5600, no muffler/resonator, 4" turndown behind cab.

That is a mystery I can't answer between the 2 trucks... :shrug: [ATTACH=CONFIG]2093[/ATTACH] As you see for me running high up the RPM scale just retards timing... :rolleyes:

What software is that map from??

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I thought it looked like RR..Thats what I use for tuning Subarus..now, I'm gonna have to start digging a little ;) I've used RR since '07.

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i believe it is the rpm's over mph.lets say 3 truck testing..going 65 or 70..this is for an example here...3.55 or 3.73 or 4.10..whatever.....automatic,5-speed,6speed.....and one of them has a gearvendor over/underdrive unit on it.....one truck at 70 is spinning 1900rpm....one is spinning 2100..one is spinning 1600 rpm..i would want the one that is spinning the fewer rpms..wouldnt you mopar??:thumbup2::smart:

--- Update to the previous post...

http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html

--- Update to the previous post...

http://www.gearvendors.com/faq.html :smart::thumbup2:

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Thinking of getting some of these Injectors,thinking mine are due to be replaced. I'm sure i'll notice a increase in power,but more important what can i expect in mileage increase.

have you gotten your injectors yet?:thumbup2:

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I've yet to see > 18mpg, ever, in my vp44 truck. My average DD mileage in the 24v is ~14-16mpg, all city. My 24v gets ~17-18mph @ 65mph, empty, no trailer. 24v = stock everything except bhaf, 5600, no muffler/resonator, 4" turndown behind cab.

Funny - those figures are almost exactly the same as mine before I added my juice. Now ...... +1mpg towing (11-13mpg) ........ +1mpg city (15mpg-17mpg) ....... +3mpg highway (20-21mpg). When I add my RV275's back in {probbaly live with the stalling for now} ....... I expect around +1mpg extra to each of those figures.:woot:

That whole 2000+ RPM thing being instant drop is a bunch of crap. I know everyone preaches it on every forum but I have never seen an instant drop. I do 70 at 2100rpm and get 21mpg doing it. I got 17mpg pulling the trailer at 70 also. Speed kills MPG, not RPM.

Yeah kinda agree on this one. Interesting about the winddrag factor above 55mph (is that figure right mike ?) and the vp44 retartment with rpm. But I hit 20mpg on 65mph cruise control every time. I don't think I am going to see 24mpg running her at 55 mph ..... :shrug:

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The chart is like a mountain pertaining to speed and mpg.

Too slow and you aren't getting anywhere and just running the engine uses more fuel than the distance you travel. Like at 1 mph, your not going to be getting any kind of mileage. You will have to burn an hours worth of fuel basically idling and will have only gone 1 mile.

Too fast and you are going over a lot of distance but it just ends up taking so much power to go that fast that it ends up using a ton of fuel. It would be like driving a billboard through the wind, sure you can go 100mph and get very far in very short of time, but it takes a lot of fuel to push a billboard at 100mph..

Those 2 examples are very drastic but they get the point across.

Now the factors that also come into play that you have to set up for mileage are:

[*]Axle Ratio

[*]O/D Ratio

[*]Tire Size

[*]Vehicle Weight

[*]Aerodynamics

All of those factors are different on every vehicle. They can be pretty close but I doubt everyone has the same tire and the same wear on all of them. Engine have different wear patterns that can affect their efficiency at different RPM's. Like if one engine has more advanced timing than the next, then the more advanced engine will be more efficient higher up in the RPM.

It is a fine art to hone each factor in for perfection and it takes a lot of skill. The biggest problem is getting everything perfected for the variety of speeds we face. Trains have figured this out with the generator/diesel set up. Electric motors do not have "rated RPM's", if they say 50HP they can produce it at any RPM given enough power. The diesels can run constantly at their most efficient RPM with nothing but the fuel rate changing to keep it at that RPM. Everything efficient is at a set speed. Now you see why it is so hard to get our trucks to be efficient. We aren't on rails, we are on roads full of changing speeds. It is possible to keep this efficiency constant with all of the variable drive transmissions (like in the nissan altimas, I think) but obviously they are only on low power engines thus far.

Another issue is load. There is a reason trains don't go 1000 miles with just the engine car by itself, but that is exactly what we are doing when we are not pulling a trailer. We have a huge engine pulling a tiny load and the engine itself is using more power just to turn itself that doesn't need to be used. At 70mph we could get by just fine with a stock 4BT.

Now there is our need for speed or acceleration. Need I say how trains accelerate.. They don't have 100000000000000HP engines to get the 1000 cars to 70mph in 6 seconds. It might be needed for that 6 seconds, but after that you have a huge engine that is nothing but dead weight.

When you pull a trailer, your efficiency goes way up. Look at per pound pulled per drop of fuel and it will be more efficient. You have to get the engine to work hard and that is when it is very efficient. If you have unused HP then you need a smaller engine.

It's interesting how most new semi trucks WITH 80k lbs can get the same mileage as an older pickup truck that is unloaded. Have you seen how they accelerate? That's what I thought. If 14L can pull 80k efficiently, then that means there is 5714 lbs per liter. If you think that is BS then put a 4BT in your truck, leave it stock, leave your truck unloaded, put an 18 speed in your truck (designed for the power, so it would be a lot smaller than the semi trans) and now see what you get for mileage. It might be slow but I have my doubts, I think it would accelerate faster than a semi. To get down to semi speeds, I would throw a 2.5 or 3 liter into my truck and then it would be slow but efficient. I know some people think this is also BS, but you won't be trying to accelerate to 60 in 6 seconds, you will slowly get up there, on hills you will downshift and let the truck slow up the hill and speed down the other side without trying to hold 80mph the entire time.

If you can get out of that "I gotta get to 60mph quickly!" mindset, your mileage will skyrocket. I take a mile to get to 65 when I hit the highway to go to town..

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