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AH64ID

Some more mods on their way....

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

Since the VNT plan went TU I am going another route. It’s a little more money, but hey that happens :-)

I got a killer deal on a set of DDP 50's, one that I couldn't refuse. Nozzles were always part of the plan, but never in the immediate budget, but like I said I couldn't refuse these.

I have wanted a different turbo for a while, as the VNT indicated. My main goal for a new turbo was to reduce the insane back-pressure created by the stock turbine housing and wheel. I don't need much more out of the compressor side, just more efficient. I am trying to decide between a Garrett Stage 2 or a modified Stage 3. The two turbos both have the same turbine and turbine housing; just the compressor wheels are different. One is a 60/80 the other is a 64/88. Both are water-cooled ball bearing units and should spool very fast and provide 35-40 psi of boost with low drive pressure.

To ease my mind when the boost goes near 40 I am also going to be installing a set of ARP 425's. Most say I don't need them at my boost levels, but I don't want to find out the $$ way I need them.

I will also be installing a set of manifold and turbo blankets. They will improve spool even more, and keep underhood temps down.

Lastly, if there is any funding remaining, I will be getting an Edge Insight to monitor my OBDII readings, post-turbo EGT's, and oil pressure.

The goal is to be done with wrenching by the 1st week of April, I have a busy schedule from now until the middle of March, so it will mostly be parts gathering for the next month and a half then wrenching.

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dorkweed    313
dorkweed

Why not go to twins/compound turbo set up???

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

$$$$$$$$$ At 400ish rwhp I'm not really needing twins. With my mods a Stage 2 will still spool as fast or faster than stock and cool a lot better, really all I need. Then if I decide to go twins down the road I can do it easily and have BB twins :-)

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dorkweed    313
dorkweed

$$$$$$$$$ At 400ish rwhp I'm not really needing twins. With my mods a Stage 2 will still spool as fast or faster than stock and cool a lot better, really all I need. Then if I decide to go twins down the road I can do it easily and have BB twins :-)

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

The stocker/S400 setup gets some good reports, but its still more $$ and doesn't address the issue of the less than efficient stock turbine on the HE351.

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dorkweed    313
dorkweed

You still have to admit though...........that the stocker turbo in the 04.5+ trucks does a pretty damn good job for about 95% of all applications!!!:smart::smart: It ain't perfect, but it's pretty well "rounded"!!!!:smart::2cents:

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

It is a good turbo, but it was built for emissions. Its why the turbine and housing are so restrictive. There are modified versions that gain 27 rwhp on stock tuning because they actually allow the exhaust to escape the cylinders. The turbo was 1 of three hard parts used to meet emissions, the others were the cam and the pistons. The pistons can't be changed with an ECM change, and I already swapped the cam. Ditching the stock turbo is the next step in allowing the motor to breath freely. I really don't like how doing 80 can take 18-20 psi of boost in cold weather and 13-15 in warm, there is no reason for that. And I beleive it only does it becuase the DP is so high at no load when the rpms climb. Its 2:1 no load at 2500 rpms, thats just insane! It creates an EGR by not alowing the air to free flow.. So really I am just wanting to change the turbine wheel/housing out. But the cost to modify a stocker is 75% of a BB Garrett, its worth the few extra bucks to upgrade the entire turbo. EGTs will drop, spool will get better, and the truck will overall be happier.

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

Well I have decided to go with the Stage 2 Garrett. After doing a little more research its a 3788R center section and turbine with a 3582R 61.4/82 comp wheel. It will be the best choice for how I plan to use the truck. I also scored a killer deal on a used ATS 2-piece manifold. According to ATS they plumbed it as a 3/3 divided collecter (vs the stock 4/2), and it keeps the turbo in the OEM location. It's as close to a 2nd gen manifold as I can get without actually getting one. It's probably not as good on flow as a 2nd gen, but I don't have to rework the intake, exhaust, CAC plumbing, or anything else. I am not sure what gains I will see over stock, but I should at least get slightly better spool, cooler EGT's, and little better sound. So the run down on coming mods is Garrett Stage 2 turbo, 62/64/.89 Ball Bearing WatercooledATS 2-piece pulse flow exh manifoldTurbo performance manifold/turbine blanketsExhaust wrap for EB and down pipeARP 425 Head StudsDDP 50'sBig smile on my face when towing. I'll probably end up backing the JR off to SW1, that should put me about 350-375 at the rear wheels, which is perfect for towing. If I want more power turning the SJR to SW2 should put me at 400/900ish to the ground, but I think I'll wait until I have a clutch for that, which hopefully is a long time.

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dorkweed    313
dorkweed

I keep my truck on SW5, which is probably somewhere's near your "ideal" 350-375hp. I would have to agree with that!!! Towing my new work trailer on level ground at 65mph, I see about 8psi of boost and like 700*EGT. My new work trailer........although only a single axle, has a greater tongue weight than my old trailer. The front of the trailer is also a bit further back off the truck than the old trailer. Both of those factors, believe it or not, actually make this new, "lighter" trailer a "harder" pull than my older heavier trailer. Does that make sense???!!!!!If I had an "IN" like you do in the Federal Reserve, I'd have a set of towing twins, head studs, upgraded CP3 and 50hp injectors!!:smart::lmao2::lmao:What, if anything, have you noticed from your cam swap???

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

The cam has made the motor smoother and more responcive in the bottom end. It also runs about 100* cooler while towing in the upper rpm/boost range. I think it bumped my economy a little but really hard to tell as I changed tire size/pattern at the same time, and no longer DD the truck. The turbo definatly spools quicker, and the oil looks cleaner. It's still black as the night, but not as thick looking. I will be doing a UOA in about a month so that will be a good indication what it did for soot. I'm not sure I have an "IN" at the reserve, just been saving like mad for a while! I have towed with the SJR on SW2 and really like that power, it's equivelant to your SW3. I should be about the same on SW1 with the 50's, but with more bottom end. SW2 on the SJR and the 50's would be a little stronger than SW5 on the Sr, and I am not sure I want/need that when towing, but we will have to see. I have yet to break 20 mpg, but the way I use the truck these days I am not surprised, thou now with the cam, and the 50's and turbo coming I think it will be pretty easy.. if I ever do a trip where I am mostly empty and at 65.

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

Yo ah64id .... Explain drive pressure in relation to the turbo ... Heard it s few times but not really understanding what people mean ....

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

Drive pressure is the pressure in the exhaust manifold, like boost is for the intake manifold. Drive pressure is what spins the turbine. In an ideal world the boost and DP are 1:1 In stock trim my truck would max out at about 1.25:1 (DP:Boost), with the mods I have now I can get it over 1.75:1; mainly becuae I haven't taken the time to re-work the WG, so it doesn't open at all. If the WG worked I could keep it at 1.25:1 or under, which is fine.

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Mopar1973Man    3,697
Mopar1973Man

Yo ah64id .... Explain drive pressure in relation to the turbo ... Heard it s few times but not really understanding what people mean ....

Drive pressure is the pressure in the exhaust manifold, like boost is for the intake manifold. Drive pressure is what spins the turbine. In an ideal world the boost and DP are 1:1 In stock trim my truck would max out at about 1.25:1 (DP:Boost), with the mods I have now I can get it over 1.75:1; mainly becuae I haven't taken the time to re-work the WG, so it doesn't open at all. If the WG worked I could keep it at 1.25:1 or under, which is fine.

Johnfak... Remember your exhaust housing is much smaller (9 cm2) than his Common Rail (not sure of the exhaust housing size) so you drive pressure will rise quick on the high end... This is what called the choke point when the DP rises about that 1:1 ratio.

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

Johnfak... Remember your exhaust housing is much smaller (9 cm2) than his Common Rail (not sure of the exhaust housing size) so you drive pressure will rise quick on the high end... This is what called the choke point when the DP rises about that 1:1 ratio.

I think the he351cw comes with a 9cm housing too ... Just a bigger go Compressor .... That's what I am going to be moving to ... He351cw ....

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

If you are running a HX35 it should have a divided 12cm housing. The HY35 which was stock on an 01 auto has a 9cm non-divided housing, which spools faster and flows just a little less on the top end. A 9cm non-divided is similar to a 11cm or 12cm divided. The HE351 is a 60/60/9The HY35 is a 54/58/9The HX35 is a 56/60/12 on 24V trucks.

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

Still running my hy35 .... Was going to do the hx35.... But sold it and now going to do the he351cw .... Together with a new methanol kit ...... But was curious on this drive pressure ....

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

Gotcha. If you replace the command valve with a plug and drill/tap it for an adjustable boost elbow and set the WG for 35ish psi then it will not be an issue. Also 2nd gen's don't seem to have the DP issue that 3rd gens do, must be the cam or piston design.. as my cam didn't change my DP ratio at all... I could have easily made my WG operational.. but why do that when I can spend a LOT more money on a shiney new snail... :cookoo:

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

I am placing the order for the studs and turbo tomorrow, the nozzles are already on order :hyper:

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AH64ID    637
AH64ID

The order has been placed for the parts.. now to figure out how to place the order for the time off to install them :doh:

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jmono    0
jmono

Good deal man! Studs are a good idea too. I thought I was safe at 50psi with studs, but you know how well that went....:banghead: Get er done man so we can find a good dyno and get some numbers. :evilgrin:

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