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Found 18 results

  1. Muffler Delete / Straight Piped Another simple enhancement that doesn't cost a bunch of money is straight pipe the exhaust. Beware in some states it is illegal to be without a muffler. Now in some states, a turbo is considered a muffling device. Some people think it just too loud. I will admit that without the muffler in place is it louder. I've been told that my truck can be heard up to a mile away. Now besides the noise and legal stuff. The bonus to straight piping the exhaust is that the engine can breathe easier. It will reduce the pyrometer temperature, increase horsepower and torque, and increase your fuel mileage. Basically, all you need to do is measure how long the full muffler assembly is and get a piece of 3" exhaust pipe and maybe a new set of clamps. Once you got the pipe have them expand the ends so they will fit over the existing pipe. So now when you do this you going to have to fight a little to get the old muffler and resonator off. I used a torch to heat the clamp spots up to get the muffler assembly off. Then slide in your new pipe and clamp it down. I've welded in some re-bar hanger to mount back in the rubber hanger on the frame to help hold the pipe up.
  2. I'm thinking this is something that would bolt right up to my truck but not 100% sure ? I'm still running factory turbo but with 4" MBRP. Exhaust should also bolt up shouldn't it? It did to my existing turbo. I ask because from his add he doesn't seem positive it will do other years http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/general-sale-section/516221-jacobs-exhaust-brake.html
  3. My stock exhaust is still good but the tight bend over the rear axle has rusted thru. At 65k miles why couldn't I just cut that off and run the tail pipe out in front of the rear tire? Getting rid of a bend sounds good, but, are there any problems doing that? Smoked tire?Eventually I'll go with good aftermarket muffler, flow through something like that, any recommendations?T.I.A.
  4. HelloDuring a routine valve adjustment the shop noticed that my exhaust manifold is cracked between 3 and 4. I plan on replacing with an aftermarket, they are reccomending the BD manifold, what is everone using? Is one better than the other? Also can about a 100 deg higher EGT than normal for the last 2 years that i could never explain no boost leaks whatsoever poor economy be chaulked up to the cracked manifold???Thanks eveyone
  5. See the thread I started here - saves reposting the pics http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/441910-pdi-exhause-manifold-fitment-issue.html#post4555099 thoughts? thx --- Update to the previous post... man what a drama - cut it off and will remake a bracket later Then had the manifold back on but all 4 wholes are threaded - not like 2+2 with stocker. So 4 hours later its back off - 2 drills couldnt fix it and I had to manually file it - now its raining :banghead: Tomorrow back on - then the he351cw and some other pain
  6. Anyone have any input on the exhaust manifold I should get? I'm undecided between the BD and ATS. While the BD has two ports driled and tapped and the ATS has one. The ATS also comes with a high temp black coating and won't look like crap after a few seasons. As far as quality between the two I have no idea. Currently the best price I have found shipped to my door is $425.00 total.
  7. I am going to be changing my Exhaust Manifold in my 99 Cummins and not sure what to torque the bolts at. I was trying to search and came up with 23, 32 and 44 so I have no idea what it should be for a 99. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You
  8. I've noticed on many GM diesel trucks a device that I interpret to be some sort of exhaust extractor. It is a section of tubing, approximately 1 1/2 " larger in dia than the tail pipe, welded on to the end of the tail pipe with S-shaped pieces of round bar. It looks like there is a section of the larger tubing that is necked down like a venturi positioned just beyond the end of the tail pipe. I've seen them installed on private vehicles, business vehicles, and even public transportation vehicles. I'm just wondering what the heck it's called, what it's supposed to do, and why don't I see it employed on anything else besides GMs. Inquiring minds want to know!Thanks for your time,Joe in St Louis
  9. $150.00 totle cost. THE 5'' STACKS ARE STAINLESS AND CAME FROM EBAY. COST $100.00 The crossover came from scrap yard $15:00. 2 band clamps cost $12:00.The elbow came off of a old pipe I had. The section of flex pipe cost $21:00.
  10. Since the VNT plan went TU I am going another route. It’s a little more money, but hey that happens :-) I got a killer deal on a set of DDP 50's, one that I couldn't refuse. Nozzles were always part of the plan, but never in the immediate budget, but like I said I couldn't refuse these. I have wanted a different turbo for a while, as the VNT indicated. My main goal for a new turbo was to reduce the insane back-pressure created by the stock turbine housing and wheel. I don't need much more out of the compressor side, just more efficient. I am trying to decide between a Garrett Stage 2 or a modified Stage 3. The two turbos both have the same turbine and turbine housing; just the compressor wheels are different. One is a 60/80 the other is a 64/88. Both are water-cooled ball bearing units and should spool very fast and provide 35-40 psi of boost with low drive pressure. To ease my mind when the boost goes near 40 I am also going to be installing a set of ARP 425's. Most say I don't need them at my boost levels, but I don't want to find out the $$ way I need them. I will also be installing a set of manifold and turbo blankets. They will improve spool even more, and keep underhood temps down. Lastly, if there is any funding remaining, I will be getting an Edge Insight to monitor my OBDII readings, post-turbo EGT's, and oil pressure. The goal is to be done with wrenching by the 1st week of April, I have a busy schedule from now until the middle of March, so it will mostly be parts gathering for the next month and a half then wrenching.
  11. Gentlemen, I have perused the different threads and may have possibly missed the subject. What is a logical progression for increasing HP and / or Fuel Mileage on a 24V In my case I am looking for both, power (I haul hay from the field on a 30' gooseneck) and Mileage, just cause it's gettin' 'spensive! I'm working with a 2001, 2500, 4WD, QCSB, Auto, BHAF, Straight exh., 135K mi., front end has been done. My initial sense and conversations have led me to believe that three things lead in any project.1. Air intake = BHAF2. Exhaust = opened up and increased in size depending on the extent of the project3. A fuel additive = 2 cycle oil etc. 4.?:broke:5.?:broke:Etc.:broke: What should be next, logical step, and what could be potential points of reducing returns/cost for aftermarket adding to the drivetrain? I think there is probably enough HP stock to get my work done, but additional HP, with fuel economy gains would be great, if the costs will pay off.I'm not a cheap A**, but..... if it doesn't pay off, I have to consider whether it is worth the output. Business/Hobby ya know. / :hyper: I want gauges, but if a Quad/Adrin. would give me gauges and added MPG, AND HP, then it may be worth the additional expense. Lets eleminate driving habits and other human induced variables. What should be my next step? Ideas.....Thanks, Gary
  12. Just a quick post about my new exhaust. I had only a stock downpipe and a short piece, cut off right before the OE muffler, coupled with a turn-down. That was it..So I got a Diamond Eye Galv. Steel 5" turbo-back exhaust from my buddy Jeremy @ Disturbed Diesel.Removal of the stock downpipe was a little rugged, with my (5) 6-inch extensions put together, a 13mm socket, ratchet, PB Blaster, and JB-80.PBB wouldn't do squat, so I shot it with JB-80 and out the two bolts came. As you can see, the new DP is 3" bell to 4" downpipe, to 5" adapter, then 5" the rest of the way. In the above picture, there's a 40" x 5" piece of tube not shown. This piece would later prove to need cut down to around 19", and used pre-muffler.Took me a few hours to install, laying on my back, 30-35*F and breezy, in the driveway. The directions were as generic as you can get, so it took some thought process, and a little creativity to get it all mounted, and use as many factory hanger positions as possible.I ultimately located pieces as such:DP > Adptr > 40" section > muffler > 19" section(cut earlier) > over-axle > Tail section (end needs shortened, as it'll clear a DRW application, as well.)I actually ended up welding the adapter to the 40" section to eliminate the need for that clamp.I ended it it all with a 6" SS tip, just to 'dress' it up a touch. Even if it's like putting lipstick on a hog.. :cookoo:Results: I can HEAR again!! I can hear the engine over the exhaust, whereas I've not been able to do so, prior. And I get to turn the radio down now :)And the turbo whistle is very pronounced. As for the exhaust note, it's a lot deeper tone, and sounds pretty good, actually. Once the muffler gets a few hot-cycles on it, I'll let you know how it sounds then, as I assume it'll get a touch louder, and better tone to it. We'll see, though.
  13. My exhaust manifold has a small crack....doubt there is any way to repair this besides replacement.Anyone have suggetions on what aftermarket manifold to buy? not sure what mods I will end up doing to this truck down the road....nothing to extreme though. Just want somthing that will help it breathe better,won't crack and won't brake the bank
  14. I am wanting to know what upgrades I need to do to lower my egt's. Right now I run a tst powermax3. On level 2 runnin down the interstate truck runs 800 degrees.. On power level 6 pulling 10k pretty slow under 40 i ran well over 1200 pullin a small hill.. So I need to make some changes to keep it down.. On level 8 goin 60 I hit over 1200 also.. So if i decide to pull a load down the hyway at 60 egt's are gonna be crazy high.. so lets here your ideas..
  15. I have 4 inch mbrp system and it is loud and drones all day long. I want a quiet muffler that will not effect performance too much. Any ideas?
  16. I am interested and so is friend of mine who has 12 valve and tail pipe rusted off stock muffler. I am interested in a muffler that is not really loud, not really expensive, and flow's alot better then stock. Is there such a muffler out there? I don't care for the straight through with no muffler but am interested in what you guys run. Thanks Chris
  17. does anybody know were you can get a better deal on 4inch stacks for a dodge diesel ? if you know please let me know thanks taz :burnout :thumbsup :coal :?:
  18. Another simple enhancement that don't cost a bunch of money is straight pipe the exhaust. Beware in some states it is illegal to be without a muffler. Now in some states a turbo is considered a muffling device. Some people think it just to loud. I will admit that without the muffler in place is it louder. I've been told that my truck can be heard up to a mile away. Now besides the noise and legal stuff. The bonus to straight piping the exhaust is that the engine can breathe easier. It will reduce the pyrometer temperature, increase horsepower and torque, and increase your fuel milage. Basically all you need to do is measure how long the full muffler assembly is and get a piece of 3" exhaust pipe and maybe a new set of clamps. Once you got the pipe have them expand the ends so they will fit over the existing pipe. So now when you do this you going to have to fight a little to get the old muffler and resonator off. I used a torch to heat the clamp spots up to get the muffler assemble off. Then slide in your new pipe and clamp it down. I've welded in some re-bar hanger to mount back in the rubber hanger on the frame to help hold the pipe up. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/muffler-delete/muffler-delete.htm
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