Hi CTD drivers,I was rotating my tires last week & noticed my front brake pads are beyond the 1/2 way point. I'm usually pulling something & she likes to work, at the moment a small 2 horse trailer & a slide in trk camper.My rotors are still good, factory style, look to me like they were updated w/ the last set of pads. I stop fine w/ what I have. I was driving w a 6x12 single axle enclosed trailer w 2 ATV's inside had to panic stop in the hills of WV, went around a blind curve downhill & my wife & I were both surprised how well it stopped. My reply was that's why I wanted a 3500 dually.I have no idea what's on there, so what are you guys using?Thanks,Dave

I don't have a 3500, but I generally go with the middle grade pads. The low grade ones are fairly 'soft'. They will stop you good and your rotors will last, but you won't get many miles out of them. The top of the line ones are good, but you will sacrifice rotor material to get long pad life, so the middle ones seem to be a decent compromise to me.

I went with the cheapest one I could fine... I don't normally use my brakes much. Exhaust brake is my primary stopping force.

If i can find them ill go Raybestos, but normally I run Wagner Thermoquiet's-Jordan-

I went with the cheapest one I could fine... I don't normally use my brakes much. Exhaust brake is my primary stopping force.

I would realy like to do a turbo upgrade off of a 6.7! More power & better brakes too!

Next year is a bigger horse trailer, we'll see what that entails, wanna keep those guys safe too!

Dave

--- Update to the previous post...

If i can find them ill go Raybestos, but normally I run Wagner Thermoquiet's

-Jordan-

I can get those local as well,

Thanks,

Dave

--- Update to the previous post...

I don't have a 3500, but I generally go with the middle grade pads. The low grade ones are fairly 'soft'. They will stop you good and your rotors will last, but you won't get many miles out of them. The top of the line ones are good, but you will sacrifice rotor material to get long pad life, so the middle ones seem to be a decent compromise to me.

Good advice, if I'm not carefull, I might learn something here.

Dave

Here is my 2 vids to show brake usage... Very rarely do I touch the brake pedal the exhaust brake does nearly 90% of all my stopping.

I don't have a 3500, but I generally go with the middle grade pads. The low grade ones are fairly 'soft'. They will stop you good and your rotors will last, but you won't get many miles out of them. The top of the line ones are good, but you will sacrifice rotor material to get long pad life, so the middle ones seem to be a decent compromise to me.

Now I use to think this but one day at work we had a brake pad engineer come by and he said that is incorrect. the cheap pads are not softer they are just not as dense, meaning they don't have as much braking material in them i.e. the stuff that helps you stop. I put the cheap ones in my truck once and it felt like in a hard breaking situation I would have to put both feet on the pedal. Now the mid grade pads are a very good choice but they still will not stop as good as the oem ones. Now if you are pulling a trailer alot you should look at sever duty pads, now these will be hard on the rotors and make some noise but you don't have to worry about stopping. Now the best pad I would recommend are NAPA (of course) Ultra-Premium pads#UP7339M, we sell them for around $54 and these pads are the same formula as the oem ones:2cents:

I use Hawk LT brake pads and they are virtually noise free. They advertise fade resistance, low brake dust, noise free and low rotor wear.I carry a slide in camper and these things stop me far better than the OEM pads that came with the truck. I like them and have about 50k miles on the pads. Rotors look nice. No grooves or scratches.

Hey Michael,

Very nice thanks for posting! So what do you do if you want to coast like in eccomodding? Put it in N maybe? With your hilly terrain, an exhaust brake would be a wise investment. Were you pulling your trailer while recording?

Thanks again,

Dave

--- Update to the previous post...

Now I use to think this but one day at work we had a brake pad engineer come by and he said that is incorrect. the cheap pads are not softer they are just not as dense, meaning they don't have as much braking material in them i.e. the stuff that helps you stop. I put the cheap ones in my truck once and it felt like in a hard breaking situation I would have to put both feet on the pedal. Now the mid grade pads are a very good choice but they still will not stop as good as the oem ones. Now if you are pulling a trailer alot you should look at sever duty pads, now these will be hard on the rotors and make some noise but you don't have to worry about stopping. Now the best pad I would recommend are NAPA (of course) Ultra-Premium pads#UP7339M, we sell them for around $54 and these pads are the same formula as the oem ones:2cents:

Thanks for that bit of usefull info!

--- Update to the previous post...

I use Hawk LT brake pads and they are virtually noise free. They advertise fade resistance, low brake dust, noise free and low rotor wear.

I carry a slide in camper and these things stop me far better than the OEM pads that came with the truck. I like them and have about 50k miles on the pads. Rotors look nice. No grooves or scratches.

Many of the TV car show guys like the Hawk pads, where does one purchase them? What do they cost?

Hey Michael, Very nice thanks for posting! So what do you do if you want to coast like in eccomodding? Put it in N maybe? With your hilly terrain, an exhaust brake would be a wise investment. Were you pulling your trailer while recording?

No need to as release the throttle the VP44 shuts down and quits pumping all together so there is no need for neutral and all that. As long as the rolling RPM's are above idle RPM's then the injection pump shuts down. This is why 55 MPH speed limit for me works out so good because I get more coast time downhill slopes... As for the video... No I wasn't but the trailer has no really effect I just jake longer that all. Still don't use my brakes down any grades...

Many of the TV car show guys like the Hawk pads, where does one purchase them? What do they cost?

Try Genos garage I know they carry them http://www.genosgarage.com/products.asp?dept=150 -Jordan-

Try Genos garage I know they carry them

http://www.genosgarage.com/products.asp?dept=150

-Jordan-

Thanks Jordan, I will do that, I like dealing w Geno's!

Dave

--- Update to the previous post...

No need to as release the throttle the VP44 shuts down and quits pumping all together so there is no need for neutral and all that. As long as the rolling RPM's are above idle RPM's then the injection pump shuts down. This is why 55 MPH speed limit for me works out so good because I get more coast time downhill slopes...

As for the video... No I wasn't but the trailer has no really effect I just jake longer that all. Still don't use my brakes down any grades...

Thanks for the explanation. I'm sort of interested in the newer 6.7 VGT turbo just for that reason, superior stopping & upgraded performance

Anyone on here do one yet? Michael, would you know?

It's gotta be, CTD,

Dave

Here is the brake pad formula for stopping:1. Get 17" wheels.2. Go to junkyard and get third gen caliper brackets.3. Install third gen brakes and rotors. It is possible to get ceramic pads and rotors in third gen sizes.The calipers are the same so you keep the stock ones.

Here is the brake pad formula for stopping: 1. Get 17" wheels. 2. Go to junkyard and get third gen caliper brackets. 3. Install third gen brakes and rotors. It is possible to get ceramic pads and rotors in third gen sizes. The calipers are the same so you keep the stock ones.

No 17" wheels for me, way too much money to do that. I do like the 3rd gen brake upgrade tho. Most likely will just upgrade my pads. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Thanks for your input, Dave

I got my Hawks from Anything Auto.  They offered 15% off and free shipping for new users so I got a better price than I could find online.

I got my Hawks from Anything Auto.  They offered 15% off and free shipping for new users so I got a better price than I could find online.

Thanks for sharing! Dave

I agree with Moparman. If you're going to spend big money on brakes then save your money by going cheap on mechanical brakes and then invest in an exhaust brake. I use the word "invest" because you will be investing by saving on future brake jobs, making your towing trips more enjoyable and more importantly.....safer, and your truck will increase in psychological value. I have one and I wouldn't tow in a diesel without one. There is a reason all new diesel trucks come equipped with exhaust brakes.

just took mine out over the blue ridge montains for nc to south of nashvelle tn. the first trip i have made in the mountains since i installed mine. i never had to touch the brakes once and kept the speed where ever i wanted it. i cannot imagine ver driving with out one again. possibly the best mod i have made.

Those exhaust brakes are nice but for us guys without the manual transmissions we don't get to use them.Good brakes are an important tool on the truck.

Those exhaust brakes are nice but for us guys without the manual transmissions we don't get to use them. Good brakes are an important tool on the truck.

With a lockup controller you can have a exhaust brake... Talk to CajFlynn he's had a exhaust brake on his truck. (Auto)

i ran mine for 8 years with out one so i know what you mean. but now that i have one i cant believe i waited so long to install one. possibly the best mod i have.