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so i just reveiced my fuel line and fittings from vulcan performance. I upgraded the draw straw as i figured i might as well since the tank will be out, and the connections on the old one are porbably rusty.well long story short, i got to talking to one of my friends who has 2 cummins trucks (a 24v and a 12v) and he told me that his personal experience WITH the draw straw in both his trucks he complains of loosing fuel pressure when taking off and when stopping with about 1/4 tank.NOW my question is, vulcan performance included instructions with my draw straw kit (yes i read instructions:lol:)they show pictures of drilling holes in 2 DIFFERENT kinds of fuel modules. im guessing this is for 24 valve guys and 12 valve guys? and i understand the object of the holes is to help with the return flow, could that have been my friends problem????i just dont want to install something and have a problem with it........NOT a fan of doing work twice :nono:

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Here is my setup...post-2-138698182351_thumb.jpgTake notice the gap to the bottom of the tank is only the thickeness of a quarter (coin). Then take notice the tip is cut flat not at a angle. Then there is is only small 1/16" notches added to the tip. I can get below 1/8 of tank with out thinking most times. But if I launch hard of course Mother Nature is going to pull the fuel rearward and the the possibly of sucking air does happen but it all depends on hard your stomping on it... In the video watch on the return trip I get on it pretty hard and sloosh the fuel in the tank (1/4 of fuel). This is what you get...

But I've ran plenty of times below the :fuel:...post-2-138698182356_thumb.jpg

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I am not knocking the draw straw. When I installed my AD it came with a kit to replace the in tank pump that i had and my fuel pick up is in the fuel tank basket. So far i have never sucked up an air bubble and can run the tank pretty much dry. I have put 35 gallons in it twice i believe. I think you have to have the in tank pump for that kit to work. the basket is a differant design than the oe. That is probably the only good thing to come of that $900 is spent at the dealer.

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Pay attention... I fell for this mistake. If you retain the strainer basket (without enlarging the holes) then the return must also be in the basket. Some installs eliminate the basket entirely. If the pickup is outside the basket then the return can/should be outside the basket. I was cobbling one together from used parts & the mechanic put the pickup in the basket... but I had an old style return to the fill. In low tank conditions (1/4 tank) the 150 can empty the basket while the return is dumping fuel back in the tank. The OEM basket just won't flow enough.

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My return from the engine and the pump both empty into the basket and i am confident that is why i can suck the tank dry, or close any way. i gues i should have included that in the above.

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All OEM systems return fuel in the basket. That is how I redid my fuel system in my Ramcharger. Not diesel....yet. Now with the diesel the issue comes does the temp of the fuel matter that much, as pulling from the fuel that just went up to the engine and soaked up some heat from the VP44 will be making another trip shortly back to the VP:stirthepot:

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All OEM systems return fuel in the basket. That is how I redid my fuel system in my Ramcharger. Not diesel....yet. Now with the diesel the issue comes does the temp of the fuel matter that much, as pulling from the fuel that just went up to the engine and soaked up some heat from the VP44 will be making another trip shortly back to the VP:stirthepot:

That's why I put the fuel return going into the filler neck. I can see the steady flow going down in there. Helps mix the 2 cycle too.

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