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Replacing the VP44 Injection Pump

RAM2000Silver
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RAM2000Silver

RAM2000Silver

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My injection pump went out last week on my 2000 5.9L Dodge. It had been running just fine, about 20mpg.I got an error code of P1688. So I went to the vendor list here and ordered one from Diesel Auto Power.So far everything has worked out with replacing the pump. Except when I pulled the old pump out the keyway stayed in the gear instead of coming out with the pump. :( I was able to grab the keyway with a pair of vise grip's and pull it out. :pray:I think I didn't move the gear but if it has been moved do I have to remove the cover and check for TDC on the gears? I hate working out in the snow, ice and wind.Is there anyway to tell if the timing has moved without removing the cover on the front of the engine?Thanks Jim

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dripley

dripley

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there are timing marks on the gear and i do beleive you have to remove the cover to check them. If the gear did not rotate and stayed engaged with the other gear you should not have a problem. But I am not sure how much that gear can move with everything in place.

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dually

dually

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When you took the pump out was the key at 12:oo? If yes ,does it still look like it is the same? The teeth of the pump gear should still be together with the other gears. If it was my truck i would do the best i could with getting the pump gear like it was before.I would not remove the big cover if i didnt have to. If you put the pump back in and it runs fine then it would be a waste of time. If you put the pump in and it runs bad and you need to remove the big cover you dont have to remove the pump again to fix the gear. Either way you look at it the pump can stay on.My money is on the gear being locked into place. putting the pump on is my vote

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RAM2000Silver

RAM2000Silver

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Why didn't I think to compare the pump key position with the gear position? Thanks that will help a lot.I did align the key up to 12 o'clock. I started to take the nut off the pump and the engine started turning.I turn it back to 12 o'clock and put the truck in gear and brakes on. The thing turned to about 11 o'clock before the nut broke loose. I'll super glue the silly key in if I have to so it stays in place.Did I say I'm not an expect on working on cars and trucks. I like it when it goes right, hate it when I can't figure it out.

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RAM2000Silver

RAM2000Silver

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Thanks for the help everyone. I installed the pump this morning. It left the banjo bolt loose and primed the pump until I sawfuel come out of that fitting.Then I continued priming until I got fuel at the injectors. I was a little surprised that it took about 12 tries before I had the lines primed.It started right up and runs fine. :hyper:Now I can move the thing inside the garage and replace the fuel pump and install gauges. :)

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RAM2000Silver

RAM2000Silver

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Did you have 1, 3, and 4 loose when trying to start it? :shrug:

No. Once I got fuel coming out of 1,3, and 4 I tightened them down and started it up. It just took longer than I expected to get fuel at the loose injector connections. I see no leaks. I'll be installing the new fuel pump this weekend. Really good to know about the gear not being able to move out of position.
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dripley

dripley

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The truck does not have to have the codes erased after a repair to run right. If you have repaired the problem the truck recognizes it is fixed and runs like normal. They will go away on there own after 40 warm up cycles I believe or you can just erase them with your scanner. I think it is best to erase them so the next you might have a problem there wont be any old codes hanging around to confuse you. Thats why alot of folks will recomend clearing your codes, drive the truck and then check them again, as long as your truck will drive. Sometimes that is not possble however.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Dripley is right on the money... You want to scan the codes, write them down and then clear them. Then take a drive with the vehicle and see if the codes return it might take 5-10 miles of driving to trigger the condition of the code(s). But then the second batch of codes are the real codes that are currently a issue. But the first batch of code you might loo into because in might be loose wire or a wet connector problem...

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dripley

dripley

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Dripley is right on the money... You want to scan the codes, write them down and then clear them. Then take a drive with the vehicle and see if the codes return it might take 5-10 miles of driving to trigger the condition of the code(s). But then the second batch of codes are the real codes that are currently a issue. But the first batch of code you might loo into because in might be loose wire or a wet connector problem...

Thanks for helping me fill in the blanks.:thumbup2:
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dripley

dripley

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That's what we are here for to help each other learn and over come problems... So any new information on the problem?

Thats why I like it here, everyone trys to help, succesfullly I might add. But I like MM would like to know if your problems are solved RAM2000Silver?
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