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GreenRiverCummins

Better way to bleed fuel system??

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So took the time today to change the oil and oil filter and fuel filter in the work truck. oil went of easy as alway's but the fuel... "shiver" Well It's a 1998 24 valve did the same routine as i have for year's 1. lossend the nut on the filter housing2. drained the old fluid from the housing3. replaced all the gasket's (3) and replaced new filter4. Filled up canister with fresh fuel5. turned key on 3 time's to then bumped key twice to ensure complete primie 6. turned the motor over fired right up for about 5 sec's then stalled and died..So after trying to bleed the line's at the valve cover for 2 hour's started at #1, then 3, 5, 2, 4 only # 4 bubbled a little after the motor was shut off. That's it what am i doing wrong using a lite mist of starting fluid to get the truck to start then die's a few sec's later. What am i doing wrong driving me crazy 3 hour's of bleeding still nothing.

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I can hear the lift pump work as well as the VP both just humming along are these vp's that crappy that 3 second's of air can destroy them good grief cummins lol of course he has no FP gauge on it yet so can't tell if it's getting pressure or not like on mine. gonna try again in the am

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Definitely test for fuel pressure. That's always the #1 thing. I would open the banjo at the VP, and then bump the starter. Then you will know if the lift pump is doing it's job, and fuel is getting to the VP.

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I removed the whole line from canister to VP and blew it out. Someone had removed the bolt on the canister and put gasket maker around it and had started to fall into the line not sure if it got to the pump yet but not a good sign. The line did have fuel in it when i removed it. Thanks for the help so far Texas CTD

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:shrug:When I've done my injectors last time I never even cracked a injector line at all. I just crank till she fired up typically in about 10-15 seconds. Even doing filter changes (both AirDog and the stock filter) I just bump the starter crack the line at the VP44 inlet till fuell is present and start the engine.

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Ohh it turns my stomach about the starting fluid part but we bleed them long enough to run down to newish 1000 CCA batteries had to hook up the battery charger after that.The worst part is i told my boss if he didn't get on to this maintance and do it on a routine base of doing it it would cause stuff to contuine to break or get worst then i go and break the truck...Blah

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When I am by myself and need to bleed the injectors, I always use ether and I have never blown up any engines. I have done this probably 75+ times. All you need is a quick puff in the intake and usually it will bleed itself. And if your scared, unplug the intake heater relays. The only trucks I have ever had problems with using ether is ones with glow plugs and all they would do is slow down when cranking. I would check fuel pressure. I have seen many times where the lift pump went out and the vp was actually pulling fuel on a vacuum. Then when you break the seal, as in changing the fuel filter. It can't pull anymore fuel.

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Just wanted to do an update on this we spent most of today at work on it. We used an old trick to prime the fuel system we took a rag wraped around a long air spout and plug the spout and rag in the tank and forced the air and fuel up front as one guy bleed the canister then, the VP then, the injector's. we tried it multiple time's and nothing then as i said the day before the intank pump was to quiet we removed the wire clip to the intank pump and ran a bypass stright to the pump AKA hotwired it and it was still none reactive... so were gonna remove the bed tomorrow and change the intank lift pump. Hope to have good new's tomorrow been a long few day's bleh

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Hello all :) I am new to all this... Just bought my 3500 12v Monday... At the risk of sounding dumb, what is VP? Is that a Vacuum Pump maybe?? Just blame it on me being blonde :thumb1:

There are no dumb questions here. A VP (A.K.A. VP44) is the injection pump on a 24 valve truck.

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What Bryan said... It's the Bosch VP44 injection pump. You have the Bosch P7100 injection pump; it's completely mechanical, which is good. :thumbup2: (not saying VP's are bad, but they do give us a little more trouble)

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So final update after removing the bed to get to the intank pump found that it had been converted over to inline pump... tracked it up the frame and found it ran it stright to battery dead as a sack a tater's. Bought a new one hooked it all up bumped the key 3 time's let pump run turned the key over one turn fired up loped for about 2 min's (Which was awesome wish it did that at the flip of a switch lol) then she cleared out ran like a top dog again. Thanks for all the help it was as someone said when we removed the fiter the system loss it's vacuum and the dead lift pump reared it's head Big thanks to all that helped me through this!!!!

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There is a little schrader like valve on the side of the VP. It's real easy to bleed it. Just bump the key, fuel pump runs for like 20 seconds and while the fuel pump is running push the schrader and pfffffft! until all the air is out. Way simple. After changing the filter It's real simple to bleed both the fuel cannister and VP44 at the same time. Here is a good video that shows exactly how to do it, takes only 5 minutes:

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I just got done doing a VP44 and Raptor pump on a local rig yesterday. I'm getting quick I manage to remove and replace a VP44 in about 2 hours. Then install the Raptor pump custom in just a bit over a hour. I think what was a amazing I did this outside in the rain no less. But for priming. I bumped the starter twice. Had 1, 3, 4 injector lines cracked. Then cracked till she attempted to start. Tighten the injector lines. Not a problem it started up and purred a bit rough. Couple of good deep throttle strokes to blow the air from the lines and smoothed out even more. http://goo.gl/maps/RQvoD

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