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Deafautotech

Diesel fuel additive??

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Which do you use diesel fuel additive? I has use power service (white and grey) and 2 stroke oil. But I am wondering about howe's diesel fuel additive?? Which is good to use?

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Which do you use diesel fuel additive? I has use power service (white and grey) and 2 stroke oil. But I am wondering about howe's diesel fuel additive??

Which is good to use?

Do not mix products.

Mixing like you show PS and 2 cycle oil negates both products.

PS = Cetane booster (lowe BTU's)

2 Cycle = Cetane reducer (higher BTU's)

PS = High HFRR score (lower in lubricity)

2 cycle = Lower HFRR score (high in lubricity)

So you been wasting money on two products washing out both and going no where. :duh:

Any additive with a score less than 450 HFRR s best. Remember the 2 cycle oil score is poor because its 200:1 ratio 128:1 is roughly 380 to 420 HFRR.

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Simple...

* Injector cleaners - Not required. If you want to clean injectors remove and hand clean there is no solution in a bottle. Think about it PS is 400:1 ratio. So you have 4,480 ounces of fuel, and adding 11.2 ounces to 35 gallons of fuel. This is only a 0.2% solution! Even with 100% injector cleaner it still will not clean the carbon off. The only thing I heard of from ISX is Carb Dip. Still you need to wipe all parts off to remove the carbon.

* Cetane - Increasing cetane will decrease BTU's of the fuel. So you want to reduce the cetane to gain BTU's.

Dark green - summer fuel -=- Light green - Winter fuel

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* Lubricity - Today's fuel here in the US does NOT meet Bosch's standards at all. Bosch requires <450 HFRR for fuel lubricity score. Today's fuel is about ~520 HFRR on average. As you'll see below is really damaging to a Bosch VP44 Injection Pump.

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From top left - Pump shaft top right - pump vane hub.

From bottom left - roller shoes bottom right - Advancement piston

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From top left - Pump shaft top right - pump vane hub.

From bottom left - roller shoes bottom right - roller shoes

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* Summary - This is why most people use strictly 2 cycle oil. Because it does reduce cetane (increase BTU's), decreases HFRR score to score that meets of exceeds Bosch's requirements.

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Thank you for all science and testing information. It made a whole clear picture! Also what is about stabilizer diesel fuel? I will need read it closer as I grab it for put diesel stabilizer to keep it stabilizer while parked in my garage during winter time as not worth to drive while narrower county road and stupid crazy drivers during winter time.

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Also what is about stabilizer diesel fuel?

Not required either. All of our fire trucks here in the valley sit in sheds for months on end without any diesel fuel additives. All fire stations are minimally heated to 50-55*F all winter. Some truck rarely even see a fuel station like maybe once every 1-2 year because the fuel tank is 50 gallons or larger. Like my two fire trucks (Structure Engine and Wildland Engine) get driven to fire meeting once a month alternating trucks. I might put fuel in the structure engine once a year.

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Still not a issue. If you get one tank of winterized fuel it will not gel up at all. Even if it does your not driving it so your still safe and till will be fine by spring. Diesel fuel isn't gasoline where all the fuel actually evaporates. Diesel fuel will not evaporate and being its in a confined tank with a cap I doubt seriously there will be any issues.

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I think that Schaffers need to look at their pictures and captions a little better. I would MUCH rather have my injectors spraying like their "dirty" injector. The "clean" one is not looking good to me..........

Posted Image This is the picture of the "clean" one.........

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JR, What are you using for fuel additive? Are you sayin' you use the stuff on the above link you provided?I wouldn't use that stuff with all that solvent. The new ultra low sulfur fuel needs more metal to metal protection in it, like oil.

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Yes that is what I am using. Very similar in chemical make up to Opti Lube products (lower HFFR than 2 cycle oil) and Amsoil. Schaeffers also has a lower HFFR score than 2 cycle oil, and right at the same price or a tad cheaper. I know everyone on here is very adamant on the 2 cycle oil and I'm not here to start a debate, but if I can purchase a product thats as good or better, at the same price, that has been specifically engineered to use as an additive, I can't see any reasons not to use it. Schaeffer's has waaay more factual evidence based on tens of thousands of hours of testing than has ever been produced for 2 cycle oil other than personal testimonials and a few HFFR score tests. 2 cycle oil has been proven to increase lubricity and I won't dispute that fact, just be aware there are other options out there :) JR

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JR, Doesn't the chemical compounds in the MSDS show that yours has got some solvents? Eek! I'd be worried about that... or am I wrong here.According to my wife I'm way more wrong than right anyhow :)

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I believe you are referring to(xylene,ethylbenzene, etc?Those are all voc's found in petroleum hydrocarbons. If you look at the msds of diesel fuel, you will find them in there as well. Schaeffer's diesel treat 2000 passed the Cummins L10 injector deposit test and corrosion performance test. These are just 2 examples of why it could be beneficial to actually run an additive that has been engineered and designed for your fuel system. They do more than just provide added lubrication.Again, not trying to start any wars because I know I'm drastically out numbered and definitely easily out witted :pLike I said earlier, jthere are other options out there and nobody ever really seems to touch on anything other than 2 cycle oil.JR

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I understand not wanting a war when you are outnumbered:ahhh:, but differing opinions are a good thing for all. Keeps us all awake.

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Simple home lab results to find out. Take and pour 1 ounce of any product into a small open container. Then take 1 ounce of 2 cycle oil and pour it in a separate open container. Leave out for 48 hours. Now measure both products again and taking note of resulting substance. But I'll let you do the test for yourself.

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how much 2 cycle would be to much or harmful? wouldn't it clog up the turbo faster?

Huh??? Anything under 100:1 ratio is too much or plain wasteful. 12V and 24V trucks 128:1 is normal dose CR Engines up to 2007 is 200:1 ratio is very safe. 2008 and up are to suggested unless all DPF, Cat, and EGR is removed. Clog the turbo? Umm you don't pour it in the turbo you pour in the fuel tank. The oil is completely consumed before entering the exhaust side of the turbo so turbo clogging is a Internet myth.

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i was talking about the added soot. the black stuff. on my dirt bikes and chains saws there is black soot on both of them, more so on the DB from the 32:1 ratio.

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Simple home lab results to find out. Take and pour 1 ounce of any product into a small open container. Then take 1 ounce of 2 cycle oil and pour it in a separate open container. Leave out for 48 hours. Now measure both products again and taking note of resulting substance. But I'll let you do the test for yourself.

So will gasoline and diesel fuel. What's your point? :confused: JR

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So will gasoline and diesel fuel. What's your point? :confused: JR

Gives you an idea to what the product is made out of. Actually in 48 hours diesel will not evaporate very much because the xylene in the fuel is very small amount typically 0.1% at best. So doing sample of fuel additives like this give you idea of the lubricant in the products. Because if it got a true lubricant it will be left behind after the all the cetane boosters evaporate off (xylene, mineral spirits, naptha, napthalene, etc.). Because oils normally don't evaporate.
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