PacBrake question

[ABennin]

I am buying an inline mount setup. I am running a aftermarket turbo and am thinking I need to get a shorter outlet on the turbo to make room for the brake. It has six bolts and it comes off the housing. So then I can clamp the brake to the turbo and the downpipe to the brake without hitting the firewall. If anyone has tips or a picture of their setup that would help a lot. Thank you.

[hex0rz]

If you are getting an inline mount, then why worry about the setup? I thought you could mount it anywhere then, technically?

[ABennin]

I looked at mounting it in the exhaust and weld in some flanges, but I would rather mount it between the turbo and downpipe and I talked to DPP in Spokane and that is where he recommends installing it. Less prone to leaking and it stays drier up there. I was looking to see if anyone else installed theirs this way and how it fit. I am going to call DDP and find out if I can get a short outlet to bolt on if I need to get one. I just want to have all my ducks in a row before I start on it.

[Mopar1973Man]

Jacobs brake on mine but it requires to be bolts directly to the stock Hx35 turbo.

[ABennin]

I ordered a Pacbrake on Friday, should be here this week. I emailed DDP and never got a response. Going to wait for it to arrive and start looking into the mounting situation. I may try to get a hold of them or just order flanges for the exhaust. I will update as the project progresses. I was thinking of permanently installing a boost guage to monitor brake performance. Not sure if this is needed but I have been tossing it around.

[hex0rz]

Man, take pics! Maybe video, too? I think you mean, drive pressures?

[ABennin]

Man, take pics! Maybe video, too? I think you mean, drive pressures?

I will take pictures. You are correct drive pressure. I was going to use a boost guage for this. Not sure if I should buy a 60 or 100 psi guage. Plan to install in the dp and use some coiled copper tubing to cool off the exhaust. Unless someone makes something specifically for this. I have some more checking around to do. Otherwise this is the plan for now. Update. Lazarsmith makes something especially for this http://www.lazarsmith.com/Gauges.html.

[hex0rz]

Well, from what I understand, drive pressures can be more than boost. Ideally its supposed to be a 1:1 IIRC. I would get one that meters to 100 psi.Isspro carries gauges and kit for this application...

[Mopar1973Man]

Very nice setup... I was thinking about a drive pressure gauge when I get a few bucks extra put away for toyz on the truck.

[ABennin]

PacBrake is installed.  I still have an exhaust leak to fix, but it still slows down in hurry.  Took me the better part of the weekend.  It wasn't hard to do, but being sick slowed progress.  I ended up ordering the adapters for installing in the exhaust and is mounted by the transfer case.  I was surprised the switch pac mount was aluminum, it was nice surprise.  I thought it would be plastic.  I didn't really follow the instructions.   I did read them thoroughly.  I mounted the exhaust brake first.  Then mounted the compressor, followed by the air tank on the frame.  Ran the wiring harness and mounted the relays.  I spent the better part of an hour removing the little plug from pin 20.  Ended up removing the plug from the ECM and pushing it out.  Ran all the airlines.  That was as far as I got Saturday before I had to leave.  Today I started in the cab wiring up switch.  I wasn't sure about where to mount the air supply on the truck.  I ended up installing it in the box at the back by the tailgate.  I did this for a few reasons.  First if I get airbags down the road I will probably get the one you inflate with an air chuck by the license plate.  I use my tailgate as a work bench often, I race RC cars and at the outdoor tracks it will come in handy while working on the cars.  I will add some pictures soon and get my exhaust leak eliminated.  Overall I am happy with the Pacbrake. 

 

Edited 2-14-14 Added PacBrake part numbers.

 

C44064 PacBrake Remote mount exhaust brake '99-02 manual trans

C18041 Switch pac

C11400 Remote mounting group.

Edited February 14, 2014 by ABennin

[rancherman]

Be  careful  on  snow/ice  until ya get used to it!

[War Eagle]

Speaking of snow and ice, will that create problems on the e-brake since snow and ice will likely get all over it if driven in the winter weather.

 

Do you have to somehow protect it from road water, mud, snow, ice and road salt if it is mounted in the exhaust line instead of up on the turbo?

 

I was also thinking about an in-line install but I am hesitant due to those concerns.

[hex0rz]

I could most certainly see that becoming a problem...

[AH64ID]

Run the 100 psi gauge for drive/exhaust, the exhaust brake will peg a 60 psi gauge.

Ideally you want boost to exceed drive, or be 1:1. This is hard to do on any recent stock turbo, they pinch off the exhaust for spool and emissions. My Garrett runs about 0.8:1, sometimes a little better when pulling grades, whereas my stock turbo would push 2:1.

[hex0rz]

Be  careful  on  snow/ice  until ya get used to it!

So, I had an experience once with being in too low a gear on ice. Does the exhaust brake affect the vehicle the same way?

[dripley]

Most definitely Just like braking to hard or down shifting quickly.

[ABennin]

I don't drive the truck in the winter and that is why I mounted it where I did.  I drive my other truck for work year round and the '00 is used mainly for longer trips and towing.  I only average around 6k a year and half of that is towing.  My drive to work is only 7 miles and driving it doesn't make sense.  The big reason I wanted one is I tow a 32ft trailer and it is not very light.  I only drove up and down my road which doesn't have much pavement showing.  I had in 4wd and it sure did work good.  I did not get to DP gauge yet.  I still do plan on installing, but that may have to wait a month or two as I spent enough on this so far.  Probably won't until I get tax return.  When I get home later today I will try add the pictures I took.

[AH64ID]

All the retarding power goes to the rear wheels, and fast. It's okay to use on snow-ice if you are in 4wd.

The further you get from the enigine the longer it takes to build back pressure, so the brake delay is increased further. It's already mounted, but if you find you don't like the performance I would move it closer to the turbo.

I just noticed the cam in your sig. Did you get the prxb? If not you could possibly exceed the valve spring rating, just depends on which Colt cam you have.

I ran a Colt stage 1 and would peak at 60-63 psi, which is acceptable. The stage 1 runs lots of overlap. I now run a Hamilton 178/208 and can see 70 plus on backpressure. That's with my non-adjusting exhaust brake. I do have 103# valve springs so it isn't an issue.

[ABennin]

AH64ID it is a PRXB for that reason.  The cam is stage 2.

 

I am going to get some fasteners from fleet farm and hide the air hose in the box under the bed rail.  I really wanted to mount it by the trans but decided not to because I was afraid it would block access to the fill plug and make it difficult to fill the trans.  If I don't like where it is now I may just move there anyways.  Cutting and welding isn't too hard.  The k&n elbow hit the compressor.  I bought the bhaf because I was afraid it would hit and it sure did.  I threw one in of the trailer, that is one it is hooked most of time now.

 

[ABennin]

I worked on the exhaust leaks and while I was under there I decided to move the brake up to where I was originally going to install it, next to the trans in the downpipe.  That is where it is now and the exhaust leaks are gone.  I cut the weld out on one of the flanges and welded it on the downpipe which I had to cut a section out and add back in downstream.  I moved the outlet pipe with flange up and rearranged the exhaust accordingly.  It is going to make access to the trans fill plug harder but it will be fine.  I kind of like the delay it takes to build pressure, it isn't such a sudden engagement.  I would compare it to a newer farm tractor with a electronically controlled PTO.  You hit the switch and it takes 2-3 seconds for the PTO to be fully engaged.

 

Updated 1-21-14  added pics.

Edited January 21, 2014 by ABennin