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Quadzilla Adrenaline Hardware Thread Fixes, Tips, Tricks


Me78569

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In an Effort to Keep all info in one place I have moved all the info into an article found HERE

 

Feel free to ask questions in this thread, but as I stated in the article I am not longer offering any support beyond what is covered in the article.  Jacob at DAP is the new Owner of Quadzilla and all support requests should be forwarded to him.

 

 

Thanks

Nick

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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mine does this if I dont have it plugged into the truck. my thepry is the laptop usb doesnt put out enough power to run the quad box.

if I just plug my box into thw truck and my laptop everthing works fine.

agree with ed on this one xp is best

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All things Quadzilla would be best done with XP. If all you have is W7, right click the update software & click "Properties" then "Compatibility, Then check the box for Windows XP (SP3) click "Apply"

Then try to run the program again.

Ed

 

Would it be better if I could provide link for Virtual Box and Torrent of Tiny XP?

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I would think that adding virtualization to the equation would make it more troublesome.  I run the quad tune loading process from my windows 7 machine all the time without issues. 

 

Not saying you wont have issues ever, but I consider it pretty low risk.  running the pv upgrade however seems ot be a different story.

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PV is night & day. I did many box upgrades with my dual core 64 bit laptop. Just ran it in compatibility mode. PV IMHO MUST be done on a single core 32 bit XP puter. Not sure how the live distros would work for it, but I wouldn't try a PV on it. Find an old clunker at the thrift shop & pat $15 for the peace of mind....

 

Ed

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  • 3 months later...

Hey guys...  My Quad doesnt change tunes anymore.  I am going to try to reload everything.  I DO have all the original tunes and updates from ADR.  I kept everything I ever downloaded.  All the tunes and updates too.

 

I think however I may have damaged this thing by jump starting it... Yeah, its listed in the manual, and mentioned above.  However it does NOT look blown up.  Nothing does.  I tested the resistor though and it measures 1.6 Ohm rather then 1 +/- .05 so maybe thats wrecked enough?  I also attemtped to test the rectifiers.  I looked online and i guess they are supposed to test open from source to drain.  Until the gate is touched then its supposed to show resistance.  This doesnt work, it shows resistance all the time... So it could be an FET?

At any rate...  i dont may just buy all new parts because they are so damn cheap anyway.

 

Any suggestions?

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OK, the V2.1 is less succeptable to jump starts. What controller do you have? If a pod or PV1, try taking it apart & using something to short the contacts to change levels. The silicone/carbon buttons were failure prone. Also, check ALL connections very well.

 

Ed

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I have the PV1 i guess... lol.   Its the "Pulse".  I will check out the buttons...  I cant remember now if they would curosor up and down in the menus or not.  I assume that if it did cursor throught the menus then the buttons would be fine and the issue would lie elsewhere?

 

I did test the resistor and it was out of spec... per se...  If its is a 5% tollerence... it was like 60% over that.

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Ok... I just verified..  I can move through all the menus perfect.  Up down, select, this that...  However, I can NOT change tune levels. Also, when i plug in the the tune I heard a relay "pling" so i opened the fuse box and pluging the tuner in causes the "fuel heater relay" to momentariy click on.  It does shut back off but its a quick thing.

 

Ive had other wierd things happen before also...

The first one started when i got "chinese projector headlights" after installing them the fog light switch would turn on the bright headlights.  It seems to be caused by the crappy chrome housings shorting against the headlight bulb body.  The LED halo also lights SUPER dim because the LED lead touches the chrome housing also...

I also had an issue when i followed the "TQ Lockup switch".  It worked fine for a while, however, wierd things started to happen.

Some how the jumper wire that replaces the relay was causing a backfeed of power and keeping my computer on.  Shutting off the truck the ADR would never let the truck shut down.  It would just run forever.

I pulled the lockup jumper and havent had a problem since.  I was hoping it was a shorted or damaged solenoid (i was pointed that way from another person) however i replaced all trans solenoids with upgraded ones and have a GM governor solenoid too.

 

Just wonding if something did get popped when i jump started it....  Even my V2.1 manual said DONT jump start it.

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I know this thread is about hard wear, but I've been trying to remember on a stuck tune one trough ten what do all levels do? I thought one is max milage and only affects timing, and from there on I can't remember. Is there a better level for better mpg? Like 5 maybe? I know Mike uses 5x5 on his edge but it's not the same thing. Anyone?

Maybe we can start a new thread about best levels for whatever use.

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