Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Suggestion's for upgrade's for Heavy 5th wheel towing?


Recommended Posts

Hello again all,

 

Howdy folks been awhile since i logged in but just got back from our first trip to our favorite campsite on the lake. This was the first time going to this site with this camper (This site is the farthest and has the most hill's and curve's).

 

So i'll put the info up on my setup:

 

Truck:

2001 Dodge 3500 ex.cab LB Dually 4x4

5.9 HO Cummins 24valve 6 speed 3:54 gear's

 

Upgrade's:

Motor wise BHAF, Aftermarket intake horn, Fass 150gph Fuel pump, Bank's Big head wastegate, of course EGT, Fuel pressure, Boost gauge's.

Tranny wise South Bend 3250 Dual disk clutch, South Bend Upgraded Slave/Master cly.

 

Hitch: Reese fifth Wheel Rail's with Reese 30k Gooseneck adapter hitch

Trailer Hitch: Bulldogg 26k 5er to Gooseneck adapter

 

Trailer 1998 Newmar moutain air 39BRSK 40' Dual tandem rear axel's with front and rear brake's, Total Trailer weight 18,000pd's (Can provide pic of build sheet if in doubt it does weigh that much when fully loaded for a trip)

 

So to get to the point the truck can stop the trailer with ease (With and with out the trailer brake's on found that out by accident wire got pulled out of fitting). And taking off from a dead stop both on flat ground and on a hill is not a challenge my real issue is getting up to 55+ when getting on the interstate or just getting to speed at all. The drive from my house to the lake is about 30 mile's one way 80% is 6% grade up or down and 90% curve's( if you've ever been to kentucky you'll understand...)But after 3rd gear my egt's climb like a jack rabbit... from 800F in 3 at 35-40mph to 1150 in 4th at 45-50 mph at 30PSI boost. after i get to 55 i stay n 5th gear i know to stay out of 6th but, on most hills i got to drop to 3rd and by the time i get to the top i'm crawling to a point around 35-40 mph since it's about a right or left turn at the bottom of the hill going up. I was hoping for some insight into what to buy next injector's, Twin turbo's, intercooler, tuner??? there's so many ways to go what is my best route with this setup and it will take time as i'm alittle short on cash after the camper buying and all lol  

 

on a sidenote the original owner who sold this camper to the dealer i got it from who then put me in touch with him bought his camper and truck the same day in 1998 for the last 15 year's he pulled this monster all over the south with a 1998 dodge 1500 excab LB 4x4 auto 360 truck...which i said BS till he showed me a few dozen family photo's of them all over the place... this man was insane my dually cummins now's it back there for a fact he was either nut's or had brass nut's to do that with a half ton but he never once had a moment's trouble... 

post-1211-0-67603800-1396842880_thumb.jp

post-1211-0-14365300-1396843585_thumb.jp

Edited by GreenRiverCummins
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

It would be nice to have current weights of both the truck and trailer. (Fully loaded).

 

Me personally found that a Edge Comp module and small injector like RV275's or +50HP are very controllable. Even with the Edge Comp on 5x3 the EGT's are controllable and gives good performance. I'm still running BHAF, Straight pipe 3" exhaust and a HX35 turbo. I typically gross out at 17,000# but that's a far cry from your trailer weight. This why I was asking for current weights with water and everything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Think that SBDD clutch is around 650 hp.

Intercooler is fine.

You really only need something similar to mike. At least to start with if funds are tight.

 

Edge Comp(or old juice) ~  Box $350 used.

RV275 or +75 HP injectors - CPP or DAP. ~$350 new/rebuilt.

 

If you want cheaper - then get a powerpuck instead of comp box and go with ~100Hp sticks. Save around $200 more.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool thanks for the info y'all and sorry i took so long to respond work has been heck this week... And i would like to get a total weight on the Truck/Trailer if i knew where i could do that at? But i will check into getting a Edge and some of those RV275 injector's soon. I plan on taking this pair to piegion forge in the next year and i know it would be unsafe to get down there and have it get to hot exhaust wise. With all those big hill's and all thanks again  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can find a scale at most larger truck stops or maybe at a feed mill. Sometimes the state weigh stations will leave the scale and display on after they close and you can weigh there too.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

Just got to look around.

 

I know where all the public scales that leave on the display like one in Horsebend, ID. Or the Shell station in Council, ID just ask the cashier and they write down your weight. Or my other favorite in Grangeville, ID there is a feed store that leave the scale display on 24 hours. I try to check RV/Truck weight twice a year.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info will get on that and also I have been looking around to see which is the best way to go about Strut's/Shock's on the truck the ride is getting rough and is bumpy at times with this size camper which brand/style would be best. Also I had an 06 Mega cab that came with Rear airbag's and they were great when hauling a load of 14 2k rolls of hay on our gooseneck would keep the load level at all time's and the ride was amazing for a dodge again which brand and size would best fit my truck/camper set up they need to be strong for this kind of weight Thanks for the info and all the help thus far  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try:

 

http://www.airliftcompany.com/

 

http://catscale.com/cat-scale-locator/map

 

^Depenind on where you live, you may be able to find one.

 

I think a good tow rig needs to be able to get the load going, get it stop, safely, and handle the load.

 

Look into an exhaust brake. Good thing about that, you have a manual. So that should not be into more than $1k for one.

 

Look into bilstein shocks. I also hear ranchos may be good. Look into timbrens for bumpstops.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your shocks are worn I would get them replaced. I've got Bilsteins all the way around, big improvement over the old worn out OEMs.

My personal preference in load levelling would be air bags. Timbrens are good for slide in campers or guys that are loaded all the time but anytime you run around empty the ride is horrible. I have a friend that runs them on his Ford, I don't know how he deals with it. Every time I'm in that truck I need to see a chiropractor.My airbags also ride a little rougher when empty but aired down to five pounds it is acceptable.; I've been contemplating piping in a set of ping tanks to help with the ride but I haven't decided if it's worth the money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...



It would be nice to have current weights of both the truck and trailer. (Fully loaded).

Me personally found that a Edge Comp module and small injector like RV275's or +50HP are very controllable. Even with the Edge Comp on 5x3 the EGT's are controllable and gives good performance. I'm still running BHAF, Straight pipe 3" exhaust and a HX35 turbo. I typically gross out at 17,000# but that's a far cry from your trailer weight. This why I was asking for current weights with water and everything.

Thanks Michael, do they still make the Edge Comp or something similar?
Thanks,
Dave
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Personally I would go with 60-75no injectors and a smarty.

I have rung out my truck and the 100's can be warm at times but I also can say the larger injectors, and the tm on the smarty make a noticeable difference.

If you want find 7 hole injectors for smoke control and a boost elbow for extra boost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How does a different boost elbow give more boost?

there is  a adjustable  valve in them, Uses  a  little  allen wrench,    which   adjusts  the  waste gate opening.   My guess is it lowers  the  'felt' pressure  by the  waste gate...  (keeps it  closed)  which  will  give more  boost

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...