removing fuel sending unit

[Mopar1973Man]

I've seen his setup in person but like I dummy I didn't get a picture of it. I did find his old write up...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8113-truck-bed-tank-module-access-pics/

Edited January 17, 2016 by JAG1

[JAG1]

Do you have any photos?

I did post some up awhile back showing the work I did. Problem is, doing a search of the forums I cannot find them. New pics are difficult because the slide in camper is on the truck for the season right now.

 

Best I can tell you is go under the truck , looking up at the bed frame, particularly the bedframe that crosses right over the tank lid and module. When that gets cut, you have to plan out how to frame that back in for bed/floor strength. Be prepared to spend some time doing that. I took my time and spent a whole weekend and then some getting it done. I also think some of you younger guys can figure a better way than my fix.

 

If you decide to go ahead just make darn sure about where you are cutting first. Drill small holes in the corner of your 4 cuts and go back under the truck to see where it ends up first before cutting anything. Once you cut that out you can see better about what to do, but, like I said, if you cannot plan out what to do first.... don't do it till you do.

 

Prayer always helps too  

[Royal Squire]

Thanks Mike. Well done Jag, think I'll try to get by dropping the tank

[joecool911]

Jag and i have toyed with the idea of a bed access kit. But have not done it yet.

[Ilikeoldfords]

 

Apart from the fuel line, I think you would have a hard time damaging this thing. I will admit though that I have not checked the laws concerning where fuel needs to be drawn from. My truck doesnt see much off road apart from a couple logging roads a year so I am not too worried about damaging mine. It was an easy installation and it works flawlessly as far as im concerned.

[Mopar1973Man]

From the FMCSA web site...

http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/title49/section/393.67

 

(4) Drains and bottom fittings.

(i) Drains or other bottom fittings must not extend more than three-fourths of an inch below the lowest part of the fuel tank or sump.

(ii) Drains or other bottom fittings must be protected against damage from impact.

(iii) If a fuel tank has drains the drain fittings must permit substantially complete drainage of the tank.

(iv) Drains or other bottom fittings must be installed in a flange or spud designed to accommodate it.

 

(5) Fuel withdrawal fittings. Except for diesel fuel tanks, the fittings through which fuel is withdrawn from a fuel tank must be located above the normal level of fuel in the tank when the tank is full.

 

So I guess it legal if I'm reading that right.

 

Here is a bit more I found...

https://www.transferflow.com/regulations

[wagntagn]

I finally got back to my project so I cut an opening in the bed,on JAG1 pics it shows only one bigger line on top of  the fuel sender and the existing barb as a plugged hose?? On the original it as a bigger and smaller barb coming from sender which one is the return?Also on JAG1 pics he mounted a filter before the pump is that ok? By doing that do you cancel the original filter on the engine?

[JAG1]

If you cut the bed be prepared to use some real smarts on getting it reinforced. You will need to get real creative/ really use your head on how to fix it. Could be a nightmare... I warn you, it's better to drop the tank.

The filter before the lift pump is called the prefilter to help the lift pump last longer and separate out water particles before the lift pump can break the droplets up to even smaller droplets. It will help the engine filter that is even a smaller micron filter to last longer and do a better job. Do not remove the engine filter you need that one to protect the VP from the smallest contaminents.

Don't go by my pics on top of the fuel module... that barb that is plugged was the return line. My return line now goes into the fuel filler neck.

I also added a boat tank vent going up behind the fuel door to eliminate the factory vent since they are known to cause problerms.

Basically I remodeled all the Dodge out of everything to do with the fuel system including getting rid of the intank screens and their silly pick up tube.

Edited January 17, 2016 by JAG1

[CSM]

I agree with Jag1.  It really could be nice to have an inspection port above the tank, however it is really easy to drop the tank.  I used two rachet straps looped around the frame and just cranked the mostly empty tank up and down.  When it is empty it doesn't weigh hardly anything.  If I had a friend I could have done it with my big floor jack on one end and a friend bench pressing the other end up for the minute it took to get the factory mounting strap around the tank.

I also agree with getting rid of the intank screens.  New, they work fine but most are plugged up with crap at this point and unless you are going to completely clean everything and painstakingly wash out the plastic screens they aren't worth much.  

Edited January 17, 2016 by CSM

[JAG1]

On ‎4‎/‎26‎/‎2015 at 7:39 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

I've seen his setup in person but like I dummy I didn't get a picture of it. I did find his old write up...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8113-truck-bed-tank-module-access-pics/

I'll be heading your way again soon need a break from working my tail off

[Mopar1973Man]

If you here I could get a picture of the underside I won't make you unload the camper for the top side.

[wagntagn]

So what's the micron of the pre filter?Did you go 1/2" line all the way to the lift pump,if you filter through the stock filter that one I believe is probably 5/16" same as the factory lines would that be too much restriction.For the lines coming out the sender which one is the return from the vp?

[JAG1]

12 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If you here I could get a picture of the underside I won't make you unload the camper for the top side.

Yeah I know how you operate... leave the camper on so truck won't fit inside shop...

12 hours ago, wagntagn said:

So what's the micron of the pre filter?Did you go 1/2" line all the way to the lift pump,if you filter through the stock filter that one I believe is probably 5/16" same as the factory lines would that be too much restriction.For the lines coming out the sender which one is the return from the vp?

My prefilter is 30 micron water seperator. I also have the Vulcan big line kit all the way to the vp. My return line is plumbed into the fuel filler neck on what used to be the fuel fill over flow. I can take the fuel cap off and see the amount of return flowing. This helps mix 2 stroke oil, but my intent was to have the hot return fuel not dump near the draw straw and help cool the VP. However little benefit that actually is... I don't really know.

.

Edited January 18, 2016 by JAG1

[wagntagn]

So are you plumbed through the original filter on the engine,this one is like 3/8" ports max?So the return from the vp is better to be seperate from the suction.

[JAG1]

I never saw the factory filter ports so not sure on mine. All I saw was an amazing difference in much higher fuel pressures switching to the Vulcan big lines on the same factory lift pump and filter. Eventually I went to an AD100 lift pump.

Not sure about the benefit in placing the return fuel dump separate but I do like to see my overflow valve dumping the heat off the vp. Good amount of return flow is a good thing and I can see mine. I like that.

[wagntagn]

The vulcan big line is it the 3/8 or 1/2" I'm set up with the Fass ddrp roughly 80 gph ?If I stick with the return on the sender should I go with the bigger fitting?Will the original filter handle high flow pumps?

What I'm thinking is going 1/2" from tank to pre filter to lift pump as close to the tank as possible then from lift pump to original filter and Vp all 3/8"?Does that make sense?

[JAG1]

I'm 1/2'' all the way including the 1/2'' draw straw. Anything to help flow is good but getting rid of all the banjo bolts is the biggest benefit. Vulcan kit has longer sweep 90 degree going into the VP instead of a hard 90 which helps reduce cavitation and increases flow. My thought is anything you can do to increase flow volume and pressure will help the lift pump not work as hard and help maintain the minimum fuel pressure that the VP needs to stay healthy. 14 p.si is when the over flow valve opens and starts removing heat from the VP with a good amount of flow in return fuel. We all learned this from this site because Michael Nelson is a good technician and teacher.

[Mopar1973Man]

3 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

We all learned this from this site because Michael Nelson is a good technician and teacher.

Ahh... shucks

[JAG1]

 There is nothing like meeting good folks and the experience happens in such a way that you know God had it in his plan. I think this sight actually magnetizes folks with the same heart felt sincerity.

Edited January 19, 2016 by JAG1

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

5 hours ago, wagntagn said:

The vulcan big line is it the 3/8 or 1/2" I'm set up with the Fass ddrp roughly 80 gph ?If I stick with the return on the sender should I go with the bigger fitting?Will the original filter handle high flow pumps?

What I'm thinking is going 1/2" from tank to pre filter to lift pump as close to the tank as possible then from lift pump to original filter and Vp all 3/8"?Does that make sense?

I ran pretty much that exact set up for a few years and never had a problem. I don't know if your adding a draw straw to the tank but I would highly recommend one. The stock sending unit lines and screen are a big restriction.