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Teardown and Rebuild

TFaoro
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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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What are you going to college for?

 

I had a total of about 30K into what would be equal to 4 years of college room and board included in the total from 1990-1993. 2 years of full time college for agribusiness and then 6 months @ Wyotech in Laramie for diesel tech program which was 8.5 hours a day 5 days a week schooling.

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TFaoro

TFaoro

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Mechanical Engineering at the Colorado School of Mines. The price of everything now is crazy! The prices just keep going up.... I've got 3 years done and will graduate with my bachelors next spring, then back to school for one more year to pick up my masters. That school will be making a lot of money off of me!

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TFaoro

TFaoro

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Back on topic!

I got a quite a ways :stirpot:
 
Draining oil and antifreeze while removing intercooler boots and pipes
IMG_20150511_131135_401_zpsjissb26r.jpg
 
Pulled tires and set the front end on the ground, then removed radiator, intercooler, VP & injection lines, PS & vacuum pump, manifold & turbo, APPS, all electrical connections and electrical holders (There were a ton!), and starter.
IMG_20150511_172728_520_zpsckdsrtcr.jpg
 
Attempted to chain up with the valve cover on - No go
IMG_20150511_181432_096_zpsw2cwbels.jpg
 
Removed valve cover, then chained up, lifted the weight off and removed the motor mounts.
IMG_20150511_183947_598_zpso1c40ssu.jpg
 
Half way out! - That's my brother / helper
IMG_20150511_193522_095_zpssc3efp9b.jpg
 
Finaly got it out of the truck.
IMG_20150511_194024_577_zpszgfwk7fe.jpg
 
Lots of crap to clean up!
IMG_20150511_194048_068_zpstemj54yh.jpg
 
Got it flipped around and set up on blocks.
IMG_20150511_201401_627_zpsogmqijgu.jpg
 
Getting ready to remove the head.
IMG_20150511_202406_735_zpsgs7cn6q6.jpg
 
Head off!
IMG_20150511_211842_054_zpswj41zb7w.jpg
 
Head
IMG_20150511_211858_990_zpsolu77yto.jpg
 
Bore - Cross hatching looks good and there is no lip up at the top! Very good news. It looks almost new at 188k
IMG_20150511_211927_950_zpsmogdv237.jpg
 
Block
IMG_20150511_211937_803_zpsj37bb7vn.jpg
 
So that's as far as I got tonight. As far as I could tell the pistons look perfect, the bores look perfect, and I did not see any cracks in the head or valves. Also turning it over by hand there aren't any rod bearing problems. So at the moment I'm still stumped as to why the think is knocking. Maybe a cam lobe is worn?? Either way the cam will be coming out soon. If you have any idea what the knocking is post it up!
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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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I may have missed it but describe knock and conditions it was noticeable. Could be piston pin rod bushing going bad or getting loose in piston itself. You ever pull a UOA?

Did you check the valve lash adjustment before pulling it apart or throw a dial indicator on all of the rockers and roll it over to actually see what cam lift was on all the lobes first?

Another indicator of a lobe worn is if it has had numerous valve adjustments and one adjuster screw looks a lot shorter or longer than the rest at a glance. All very quick things that need to be checked before teardown should have occurred.

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TFaoro

TFaoro

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Knock miss, whatever the heck it is. 

It's hard to describe. Hopefully that video is a good description. I don't think bushings or bearings... everything was tight when I rolled it over by hand back and forth. No UOA. Valve lash was done multiple times since this started. No I don't own a dial indicator... yet.

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AH64ID

AH64ID

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The CR tappets are larger, but you gain nothing from it. The reason CR builds use 24V tappets is because they are lighter. I would stick with 24V, especially if yours are in good shape. Why do you want larger tappets?

What are you planning on running for valve springs?

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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My hearing sux to start with so trying to listen to a video that has a lot of echoing doesn't help me there but I was never fond of how the 24v vp engines sounded, never been around any 2 that sounded or ran the same, they were always a different sounding beast compared to 12v and cr engines, I have listened to many that were like yours where people swore up and down they had an issue but nothing ever showed up. Sorry I can't hear too good maybe others are hearing things I can't.

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TFaoro

TFaoro

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The CR tappets are larger, but you gain nothing from it. The reason CR builds use 24V tappets is because they are lighter. I would stick with 24V, especially if yours are in good shape. Why do you want larger tappets?

What are you planning on running for valve springs?

I just figured more surface area was better.... I suppose I am wrong though! I'll probably just stick with the 24V tappets.

Springs will either be 103# or 110#. 

 

i listened to the vid, its something dealing with the crank/rods/pistons. its a faster rattle than valvetrain. possibly wristpin bushing or conrod bearing?

It does seem faster than the valvetrain, but it is also inconsistent.... wouldn't a bearing have a constant knock no matter what?

 

What does the hub portion of the clutch look like specifically the dampner springs and spline area?

That I'm about to go take out now. I'll report back.

 

I say its time to roll that block over and inspect the bearings and look at the pistons. It is a weird knock. Think of it this way at least you be fixing the problem before it get damaging.

Yes it is weird.... I'm still working on how I'm going to roll the thing over. I have most of the steel and a gear reduction to build a stand, but it's a pain. I may just lay it on it's side for now. and keep taking things apart.

 

My hearing sux to start with so trying to listen to a video that has a lot of echoing doesn't help me there but I was never fond of how the 24v vp engines sounded, never been around any 2 that sounded or ran the same, they were always a different sounding beast compared to 12v and cr engines, I have listened to many that were like yours where people swore up and down they had an issue but nothing ever showed up. Sorry I can't hear too good maybe others are hearing things I can't.

Thank you for your input.

 

I'm heading out this morning to pull the clutch and front acessories. I may also pull the valves to see if there's anything in there. 

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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They stand on end nicely with a couple blocks once the clutch and flywheel are removed. :wink:

Also may sound funny but I have seen all sorts of things dropped or left inside engines once torn down and the perfect spot is behind the block side cover for the push rod and tappets behind the ecm, this could cause all sorts of noises too.

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TFaoro

TFaoro

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They stand on end nicely with a couple blocks once the clutch and flywheel are removed. :wink:

Also may sound funny but I have seen all sorts of things dropped or left inside engines once torn down and the perfect spot is behind the block side cover for the push rod and tappets behind the ecm, this could cause all sorts of noises too.

Great thought! I'll try standing it up on end. I'm not sure what my next move it going to be.... Stay tuned.

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CSM

CSM

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Mechanical Engineering at the Colorado School of Mines. The price of everything now is crazy! The prices just keep going up.... I've got 3 years done and will graduate with my bachelors next spring, then back to school for one more year to pick up my masters. That school will be making a lot of money off of me!

 

I went to the same school and got the same undergrad degree.  I paid 3100 for my first semester of classes... But back in the early 2000s it was still a backwards nerdy dirty hard rock old school then.  Now it is all shiny and darned expensive. 

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AH64ID

AH64ID

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The CR tappets do have more surface area but it's not utilized by the cam lobes. Even the 1.4" tappets don't have 100% contact from what I recall. I'll see if I can find a pic of my OE tappets and the wear pattern. 

 

I would get the 103# springs from Hamilton, as well as his pushrods.

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TFaoro

TFaoro

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The CR tappets do have more surface area but it's not utilized by the cam lobes. Even the 1.4" tappets don't have 100% contact from what I recall. I'll see if I can find a pic of my OE tappets and the wear pattern. 

 

I would get the 103# springs from Hamilton, as well as his pushrods.

Springs, yes but the pushrods.... I know who makes Hamilton pushrods and it isn't Hamilton. I can get them cheaper from the manufacturer! 

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