Quadzilla Power

So about a year ago I had purchased an Edge Juice With Attitude and a CS2 monitor while on the search for a bump in performance. Before that I had an old Diablo power puck, the power gains were definitely noticeable. I went on driving with the EJWA and loved the power it made but hated the amount of smoke it produced. During my last deployment I was reading up on here and I kept seeing Mopar1973man's article about switching over to a Quadzilla and the different features that were available with it and I thought to my self "It can't be better than my EJWA, they're both wiretap tuners". I did a little more research and saw that the V2 tuning was going to allow for custom tu…

I just had my first Quadzilla failure tonight. Basically rolling into the rest area notice that the display went all zero's and then started like a reconnect. Knowing the fuse tap is possible weak spot I double check it and thought I got it. Nope. Connect and the values where all over the map. Boost was bouncing 1 to 14 and back and forth. EGT's all over the place. Then fail to all zero's again. Then attempt to connect and lock up midway. Crap. Next stop I check the fuse tap again and the fuse itself. The same thing occurred again. Crap. Third stop... I decided to check the BATT connection and the ground connection. Wouldn't of figured my ground bolt had managed to come l…

I just had my first Quadzilla failure tonight. Basically rolling into the rest area notice that the display went all zero's and then started like a reconnect. Knowing the fuse tap is possible weak spot I double check it and thought I got it. Nope. Connect and the values where all over the map. Boost was bouncing 1 to 14 and back and forth. EGT's all over the place. Then fail to all zero's again. Then attempt to connect and lock up midway. Crap. Next stop I check the fuse tap again and the fuse itself. The same thing occurred again. Crap. Third stop... I decided to check the BATT connection and the ground connection. Wouldn't of figured my ground bolt had managed to come l…

Hey guys, I have warm up mode and high idle activated with a 90 second delay, until 140°F ECT. I want to verify intended functionality. Here's how mine works. After the 90 second delay, my tach jumps up to about 950 ish. After about 10 minutes, they smoothly increase to about 1200. Does this sound normal? I'm not sure if the two-stage RPM is intended or not. I would kind of prefer to see 1200 RPM instantly when it's cold out. -Kole

Just installed DAP 7x10 sac injectors yesterday in the 2001 24v. I set the quad to 150 fueling by 18psi but am only hitting 3k to 3200 max fueling. Is this normal? Should I be maxing fuel? I don't feel any power difference after installing the injectors up from stock. I'm hitting 30-34 psi on the HX35 just like before. Not really anymore smoke then stock. I started the fuel @ 95 @ 0 psi and ramped it up to 150 by 18psi and figured it would hit 4095 but it doesn't.

Some of you know I use my LG G5 cellphone for my iQuad app. Now if I got the iQuad app running and a phone call happens to come in while it running. The phone call continue like usual and the screen typically go blank because iQuad lost the foreground position. So after I finish the phone call and switch back to the iQuad app the screen in pure black. Nothing there. You have to shut down and restart several times to get iQuad fired back up. Rather annoying. Here is my cellphone info below.

If i drive with my Quad set to stock I don't notice it. Once i'm on level 3 and higher is get progressively worse with each jump up in level. Sometimes its enough to make the trans downshift and upshift over and over till i get out of that area it's bucking. Engine is completely stock and I'm running the daily tune created by the calibration creator tool on this site. Trans was just rebuilt, pump pressure was turned up to 65 PSI. Stock converter. Issue was happening before trans was rebuilt also. Trans was rebuilt due to forward band failure.

Had something weird happen that I'm having trouble figuring out. Psi on the quad is off 13-14 psi but that just started. Was always off 1-2psi but parked my truck late one night and left my dome light on and then in the morning truck started fine but psi was off more now and even displays 13psi when truck is off but ignition is on. Thinking maybe a lower starting voltage invited a gremlin in. Maybe reflashing the quad will fix? I know I can adjust the boost offset but since it just happened I'm thinking something else is needs to be looked at.

Having an issue on my iQuad gauges, when the coolant temp hits 205F it jumps to -40F instead, gauge on the dash still works fine, Is there a way to pull a CAN rip off the adrenaline to check the values when the coolant temp switches from 204F to 205F? Running V2 2.61 stable and iQuad 1.9.40 on Mostly Stock 2001 2500, 47Re

@Waydin_Stewart I saw you posting over on Smartresource.com stacking the s03 and the Quadzilla is not support. your issues with the truck shutting off are related to the factory high idle fighting the quadzilla high idle. Again this is not supported. you are going to have nothing but trouble if you stack the 2. please review the datalogs from the smarty s03 you can accomplish the same "low end torque" using the Quadzilla alone. once you command max fueling, you can't get anymoire "low end grunt" if you want the quadzilla to command max fuel offidle, just psuh your foot to the floor.... Stacking the two will result in nothing but problems.

The things you should be able to do with this thing are great, if I could ever do them. EVERY time I go to test stuff out on the truck, the app refuses to work. It worked a couple times while driving to work, but anytime I have a chance to sit and tinker, it won't let me. When I open the app, after a couple seconds it says "Unfortunately I quad has stopped working". I've reset the tablet, uninstalled and reinstalled the app and still the same thing. Really missing my comp right now. Any suggestions?

I think I've found a crude way of setting up timing. What you'll need is to find a flat piece of highway you might check with a GPS to ensure its flat as possible for at least a one or two miles. What you going to do mark off your stretch of highway for the test area now you want to be at cruise speed with cruise control locked at the exact same speed each time. Might be handy if you can do all your tuning without shutting down engine this way your set cruise control should be the same. Now if you travel the same direction and speed over your test patch of highway you now can change your timing. What I've found is if you go to far advance you will notice the …

I apologize if this has been asked before... I plan too by a cheap android phone to use in my truck for tuning and qauges. I’m curious if you can somehow make the phone open the app automatically when I turn it on? Also curious where you guys mount your phones/gauges? Thanks

So I'm in the process of swapping a 4wd chassis under my service truck and I want to add hot boxes to be able to jump start equipment and such but I keep reading that I'm supposed to unplugmy adrenaline to jump start vehicles. Is that still pertinent with remote jump boxes? I've seen the pics of fried boards and such, but man everytime unplugging and restarting is gonna be a drag..... any input would be greatly appreciated.

Question for the quad and injector experts. Im about to pull the trigger on some injectors. Looking at the dfi 7x12, 7x13 and 7x14. Will be installing a 64/68/12sxe next month. From what iv read there seems to be something to detuning a larger injector with the v2 tuning and having a better power band then a smaller injector running at its limit. Question is what is the largest injector a vp can support and what is the point of diminishing return or has this even been tried yet? i used search function but can find no answers. I think i read somewhere that 7x14 was all a sovp could support but cant seem to find it again. Wondering if a injector that larger can be detuned e…

I believe it's been discussed before, but I need a straight answer on adding a fuse to a power wire going to a battery from the quad. Reason I'm wondering is every time I unplug the main connector to the box to flush it, something always clicks and I don't want to unhook a battery lead every time, plus if I do by the time you get it off it will click a few times anyway so it's almost better to just unplug the box. So I want to put in line fuse on positive feed, but don't know what size. That way it will be protected for whatever reason and won't be clicking a bunch of times. I'm guessing it will probably still click ones when I pull the fuse. I don't know I'm just thinkin…

I have updated my ADR to v2.7SmoothFuel code, but am still seeing a message in the iPhone app display that tells me to "enable the internet connection to download updated vehicle profiles". I also expect to see the vehicle profile there for a V2 Dodge 98-02 v2.7, but it is still only showing me v2.5 from when I last updated the firmware in the ADR. Did I miss a step along the way in updating? My question is since I am regularly connected to the internet with the iQuad app, and the phone is getting its regular iTunes store updates for other software, should I also be getting something from the store for the iQuad app, or what?

Now before anyone tries to tell me that the pyrometer is only collecting temps from the cylinders that aren’t firing, or only the front 3 or back 3.... let me tell you that that makes zero sense because there’s no way that EGT‘s cool down from 400° to 100° in just to several inches between the exhaust port on the head and where I have my pyrometer placed on the manifold. Furthermore even if the pyrometer was only reading the front three or the back three, the temps would still mix higher than that of 100°. The pyrometer is placed where everybody places theirs. I’m just simply post in this thread to see if anyone else noticed this issue it’s not a b…

I need to bring this up to @Quadzilla Power ... The user interface is needing some clean up. Vehicle Selection - Way too many Dodge versions floating in the vehicle selection. I've seen several times where people are asking which version do I use to get X new function. This needs to be cleaned up. Just in V2 there is 2.2, 2.4, 2.5 and 2.7... The vehicle listing should be separated Chevy, Ford, and Dodge. Then the versions of code V1 needs its own category then V2 in its own category. This will reduce the amount of problem for newbies and know what to pick. Any BETA version should be listed in a separate category. Menu Icon - Menu icon size never go…

So ive been doing a lot of playing around with the v2, and one tricky thing that i would like to get other opinions and ideas of what they run for more power is the timing adjustment per rpm. Im curious what others have found to be the best for power but within safe range of course. Ive tried a few different mixes but i feel other opinions and what others have tried will help. Also is it possible for the vp44 timing electronic to advance or retard timing? Thanks for the input