3rd Generation Dodge

Hello to all, I have been having some idle issues for a while now and it has started to get worse so I ordered the FCA (fuel control actuator) and COV. everything came in from Geno's including instructions for the FCA, but I did not receive anything regarding the COV. I have done some searching online and cant find anything on the removal/install process all I got was info and specs about the COV. The removal looks pretty straight forward but my concern is will I need any additional gaskets or seals to install the new COV and what are the torque specs for it. Hope Some one can help, thank you all for your time.

Been several years since doing anything to ol trusty.... my 05. Getting older and having a hearing aid now and having been driving it lately since my 2010 Hemi has been acting up "Found out today I need a tranny overhaul", I find I can't take the drone of straight pipe from cat back in the cab anymore so I ordered a 30" resonator from FTE diesel to see how much quieter it gets, will remove the factory cat at this time as well. Also ordered a Vulcan 3 micron fuel filter kit with pressure sender tap because some day I might actually add gauges lol.

2003 CR bone stock with a Frybrid WVO system installed but deactivated. Been running from only the diesel system for 4 months (bought the truck in Dec 10) no problems except for a slight miss. About 3 months ago the mis got real bad and sounded like the valve train was trying to escape. Took it to a freaind who ran his OBD scanner and told me # 1 & 5 injectors not firing. Changed all six injectors! No change?? Took it back and now he said the injection pump no good. Changed IP and Lift pump! No change?? Also after the pumps change putting out 0304 code. looked into wiring issues and couldnt find anything. Was told to check wires on the back of the A/C compressor and t…

Well I went to the local tire store to get my alignment adjusted and while the truck was on the lift the tech noticed that my right front tire had play in it, indicating a soon to be failure of my hub bearing assembly. What are some respected/quality hub replacement brands? Is this a job I could do in my driveway?Thanks!

Died while driving. Cranks, No start, No communication with any scanner. (tried 3 ) No gauges, No tach, No low beams as of a couple weeks ago.. Checked for power at PCM, - Pcm had 12 volts at the Two main PCM feed circuits. We unplugged the fan clutch, disconnected the batteries, touched + & - together for ten minutes with the key on. Reconnected – no changes. Checked every single fuse. Added engine grounds, cleaned all positive terminals. REMOVED, disassembled entire TIPM. Cleaned all TIPM contacts internally. TIPM had no visible corrosion, No visible cracked solders, no visible cracked pathways. had a lot of dust, some oxidation on the main pow…

I have noticed that when towing I'm getting launch shudder when towing or under heavy acceleration. Since we are tow the TT to the Outer Banks this summer I'm going to replace the TC. Would like to spend no more then $500 if possible. Don

Hey, guys. I picked up an 07.5 dually. I'm in need of a few items, so thought I'd pop it up here, too. I need 2 17" dually wheels (steel), and an air filter assembly (they were missing when I got the truck).. IIRC, @MnTom ran a BHAF on 3gen truck.. Can this also be an option for the 6.7L? Anyone got info or pics on this? THanks.. Also, if you know of some dually wheels laying around, LMK. Like I said, I need 2. I can't seem to find any on CL or forums (chevy or dodge.. i find a ton of ford crap.)

What a pain in the butt. Those hose clamps from H E double hockey sticks, wore me out. The top ones weren't so bad. The bottom ones especially the one on the block are shear madness. Finally took the one on the block and gave it a good fling, and replaced it with the screw type clamp.To add insult to injury after getting it back together, it took along time to get the check engine light to go off. Glad I did the work after the fact, as the PO had used green antifreeze in it at some point ( I just bought it a month ago). The temp gage works better now as well ( is warm faster).So far I've changed the oil and filter, fuel filter, tranmission fluid and filter and changed the…

im about to change all my fluids in my 04.5 with 115000 ish miles. had 111 when i bought it and i am probably gonna run all castrol fluids in my truck. does mopar fluids matter that much on this truck. already done my research on the types of castrol i need. any help appreciated

Lately it takes longer for truck to turn over. No smoke, idles fine runs great. I noticed today that if I hold the fuel pedal down 1/4 the way the truck fires right up. At Idle when cold fuel rail pressure is bouncing from around 5.6 kpsi up 6.4 and as low as 4.4. When warm starts the same but rail pressure sits around 5.3 up to 5.6 down to 4.8 kpsi. Any ideas on this. Thanks for the help.

I'm stuck probably going to need a tow. Here's the deats 03 3500 dually mostly stock besides air cleaner muffler delete. Problem started as slow cranking condition so I replaced the batteries and got no where come to testing the starter I find that to be over drawing. Went to make it home so I tried to restart the truck. Long short cranked super slow then I heard a pop and the truck is completely dead red light on the dash ( it's on the upper left side of the coolant temp gauge)no interior lights no nothing. At this point I have verified voltage at 13.45 even on both batteries checked the fuses to find again no resolve at this point for the las…

So I'm driving down the road today, and noticed a rotational squeak. So I get gas and the noise kind of goes away once I get up to speed you don't like 30 miles an hour on back roads but then next to like cement wall I can hear it if I give some more gas. If I'm at a stop sign and I make a left turn and get gas through the left turn this week gets louder as I'm going to the turn.I recently had the exhaust done but I don't think it's the exhaust. I thought maybe the pipe was squeaking or something weird like that, but based on what I'm encountering I think the initial signs point to u-joint but I'm okay with being talked out of that assumption.As always all your input and …

Ball joints needed replacement so I thought I would tackle that job myself and then at the same I would install my Spyntech Shorty free wheel hubs that have been sitting in my garage for over a year now. I also had a steering brace that I wanted to get installed. While I am at it I thought I might as well do a needed brake job and replace the u-joints on the stub shafts since I had everything apart. I think doing all this work at once actually will save me a significant amount of time over doing each job separately when everything reached the end of its life. While in the middle of the project I have made a note that I need to replace my front sway bar links…

Hello everybody! I am new to this forum or any for that matter, so bare with me. Anyways i have always driven diesels and always owned dodges now i need yalls help with my 2005 3500. The truck is all stock and recently had to replace my injectors. Installed stock injectors bought from cummins, now when im driving under normal conditions my egts vary from 800 to 1000 and never below 10 psi of boost. Please help me out. Thanks

I have pulled about 6 heavy loads with my auto since I got it and I stared using the OD switch to make it down shift, all I do is take it out of TOW then put it back in tow and it will down shift nice and smooth instead of me pushing pedal and making it down shift hard and blowing smoke everywhere. Has anybody else tryed this and am I hurting the trans?I dont see where it would be a bad thing due to it down shifts nice a smooth.

my truck threw the codes p2121 and p2122. Now it is back to acting fine, I dont really want to get stranded anywhere again so should I just order the sensor? And whats the deal with someplaces you get the whole bracket with sensor already in it, but other places you just get the sensor and you might have to calibrate it. The price difference is huge but which would be better?

Went out to a friend's house last weekend to look at his truck for him. a month or so ago, I put a new steering stab (oem) and sway bar end-links on. shortly after, he started complaining about super hard steering when slow, or backing up... So I went out there and disconnected the stabilizer, for SnGs.. No change. Power steering pump is leaking, but had plenty of fluid in it. Hydra brakes work fine. Just cannot hardly turn it sitting still.. I don't wanna throw parts at it (pump or steer gear) without knowing pretty sure what is the issue. Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated.. Pump doesn't whine/groan/nothing..

Well just got back from a round trip vacation to phoenix AZ and then up to lake havasu up the colorado river around lake mead and over to Lake Powell and back through the mountains of colorado and back home. 9 states in 8 days. Smarty jr on level 3 performance entire trip. followed all speed limits within 3-4 mph most times. 3620 miles total 10 fill ups with schaeffers soy shiel fuel additive every tank. worst tank was 16.8 don't know why it was so low. best tank was 20.2. overall average came in at 19.1 mpg which made me a happy camper. every tank was hand calculated. temps averaged in the upper 80's to 90's most of the tr…

Coming home from a trip to the beach yesterday and had to ride the last 45 miles in the cab of the flatbed. Grrr... 2004 (early) Ram 2500 stickshift 2wd with no mods. Cruise control was set at about 80mph and truck lost power. Shut off the cruise, put the clutch in, long pedal gave no response except the truck sort of chugging & fluttering. Limped it to the shoulder in neutral. 85,000 miles on the clock as of yesterday morning.It's still the stock lift pump, and now when I bump the starter, the lift pump whirr that I used to hear is gone. Only thing I hear is that ticking noise from whatever that is. Starter turns the motor but it won't even hint that it's try…

Hi.Just put a new APPS in my Dodge Ram 2003 HO. Its NOT a timbo (I am from Ontario Canada) but one that is meant to go on the truck. My voltage was set from factory at 4.97 volts DC on the blue wire which I thought was the one. Thinking now outload obviously that is NOT the idle voltage..haha. I did NOT change the voltage yet (and NO there is NO voltage stamp or tag on back). The guy I got it from said to change the voltage to .55 for idle. My question is this. I started truck and reved it up and it idles good, and revs good. Can I just leave it and drive it around and if it stays ok, leave it?