3rd Generation Dodge

I've came upon a 2009 dodge Cummins with the bluetech and truck has 110,000 miles on it. The truck is all stock still has all the egr and dpf stuff on it, and took a look at the turbo and was a little dirty but not an excessive amount. I did have a buddy of mine that works for dodge here in my local town and he said everything seemed fine on the truck. I am needing some help in making sure I purchase a good truck what would be some things to watch out for thank you.

2005 2500 cummins. 245,000. Only major has been new tranny like 80k ago. Older Adrenaline quad (now unhooked). A month ago doing 80 on I-75 she shuts down like someone turned off the key from run to accessory. No power steering but lights and radio still working. Just got real quiet... Got her off the road, tried to start her -- she'd crank like normal but simply would not fire. Tried for 1/2 hour. Disconnected battery, waited, re-connected -- no dice. Had to get to work so got a tow to a local diesel shop and a rental car (had to get to work for a few days). I go back 4 days later, "It was your programmer, we disconnected it, works good!" ---- i was surprised but it…

Anyone have any idea on what could cause throttle stutter? My trucks an early 04. Around 1800-2100rpm the truck will jerk rapidly. My tuner says my pulsewidth is being erratic. Something is either causing the tps signal to drop in and out quickly, or there's interference. I've replaced the tps with a timbo unit, replaced both cam and crank sensors, and added the bd diesel ac noise isolator with no luck. When I set my meter to ac voltage and test the alternator, I get 0.006V, so I think that's fine. I haven't found any damaged wires and I have no idea on where to go next.

What's everyone using for scan tools for step by step diagnosis and fix steps.

I have a strange problem here. Just had new tires installed and never noticed this before. under torque truck pulls right. deceleration truck pulls left. wheels are tight, pressures equal. Truck is a 04 not 02.

I have always been told not to replace just one injector, but on this 05 code is saying the #4 injector bad and as much as these things cost will it be ok to change out just one or go ahead and change all 6. Also should the injector wires be changed while in it???

Ever since I put the smarty s06 on my truck its felt as if my truck falls on its face non stop. What are issues it could be? Also wondering if I should switch to quadzilla. 2003, stage 3 trans afe stage 3 intake. Stock fuel system, and stock injectors/turbo

I keep getting these notices on my 05, Should I have this done? I DONT trust the dealership at all with my trucks.

A while back, I posted a thread about hitting a "log" in the road that bent the shaft of my steering stabilizer. Well, anyhow, the one I replace it with, failed on me. I was under my truck a couple days ago greasing the front end, and noticed that the dampner was wet with oil.............it was leaking. My truck for a while seemed to be pulling to the right because I'm having to ____ the steering wheel slightly to drive straight and because I'm noticing a bit more "road" in the steering. So I'm thinking that the damper took a crap.So I ordered a "top of the line" one from Geno's Garage..............Bilstine, just like my shocks. It came today, so I pulled the old one a…

I bought a 2004.5, crew cab, long bed, Laramie, 4x4 with 290,000 miles on it a handful of months ago. Engine is stock, I had to rebuild the transmission a month after buying it (that was a fun surprise) it had previously been shifting good, until it left the family stranded while towing our small toy hauler on vacation. While driving down a bumpy dirt road yesterday all the lights on the dash flashed & the engine turned off...I pulled over, put it in park reset the key & the truck started right up. About 7 miles further it did the same thing. I eventually got to work. On the way home, stayed on asphalt, it shut down again short…

Looking at several brands of exhaust brakes. With my 2004.5 48RE I will meed some type of transmission controller. Any thoughts on Pacbrake or BD? :confused:

Hey Fellas I was looking for the best prices on a ScanGauge II and I came across the DashDyno SPD Pro Pack It does everything the SG II does and more. Yes it is more money,but I like the idea of a Dyno and some of the other features. Insert the CD into your PC and you can all use the program as a diagnostic and scan tool. You can connect your GPS to the unit and the software will track you or somebody else who drives the car. Upload the info to Google Earth and see where your car has been,how fast ect.. There is also an upgrade for Chevy B body's ABS system as well as airbag codes. Its a big ++++ since I have a '96 garage queen. It has pretty good reviews on Amaz…

Could really use some help. The clutch on my truck starts to engage just a couple inches off the floor. It is a HD single plate clutch (don't know what brand, the guy who owned it previously just said it wasn't a SB or Valair. He doesn't know what brand it is) and if I'm not ready for it it bucks and chugs. I want it to engage a little higher. Can I adjust for this? How? Thx in advance for any help.

:banghead: Trying to pinpoint a driveline growl, have replaced front bearing hubs, brake discs and keeper clips, and front u-joint at front differential, still have noise. When front driveshaft was out, drove around for a week with no noise/growl. will be replacing Cardan joint at xfer case next but wondering if this could be a pinion or xfer case bearing problem. Can anyone shed some light on this or had a similar experience? Thanks

Anyone know why there is such a shortage on bosch 505 injectors. I'm starting to get annoyed with the parts stores in my area.:banghead:

I got the heater treater doors and took the dash apart. I am now ready to take out the HVAC box. The problem is..... I can't get the AC lines to come loose. I bought the plastic fuel line/AC disconnect tools and it's not comine loose. I went to the auto parts store again and bought a metal fuel line/AC disconnet tool, thinking It was thinner and would work better. Anyway, no luck with both disconnect tools. Is there a trick that I am missing.

My tach is reading low. Idle zero. Any ideas? This is a 2006 Hemi.

I looked thru all the bypass threads and found some nice places to mount it, but either the EaBP-110 was too long, I don't have a aftermarket intake, or I have the OEM Jake. So I went with where my dad mounted his, on the pass frame rail. Looking at my dads it was great, but he only had a skid across the bottom, and I really wanted the leading edge covered, so I made a cardboard example last weekend and took it to the local machine shop, 4 days and $40 later I had a skid. I wanted 3/16 alum, but they were out so he used 1/4"... talk about beefy. As far as the bypass kit itself I did the pricing on getting the BMK-11, or just the mount and getting the fittings and hoses…

I'm running the stock $32 Carter pump mounted on the filter housing, I know, I know it's not an ideal pump for the QC LWB truck but I just don't have the $400+ to do the upgrade at this time. Anyway what should the pressure be on the back side of the filter going to the IP? During cold weather the truck will ramp up to 1000 RPM but it stumbles almost like a misfire if it were a gasser. This causes it to drop back down to 750 RPM. The only way I can get around this is to use the idle up feature with a cruse control. The truck will still stumble but it stays on high idle. I was thinking maybe the pump was going out again but would like to find a gauge to check it like ma…

I have what I believe is the "shuttle shift" in the lower gears. More noticeable when the tranny is cold and when putt putting around town. I ordered a new solenoid and filter from transmissionpartsusa.com. I got what I believe is not the BW part everyone on the "other forum" is ranting and raving about but I'm good with it. My local transtar dealer wanted $80 for the bw part, found it online for 65 and I paid 40 for what appears to be the oem unit. I'm told my pan gasket is reusable and that I'll need about 7 quarts of ATF+4 to top the tranny off when finished. Am I missing anything? Also, I have access the torque wrench needed for the band adjustment. As read countless …