2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Long time reader, first time poster. At my witts end. Bear with me while I bring you up to speed. I have a 1998.5 2500 automatic 2wd with roughly 155K miles. It was my grandfather's truck that I ended up with after his passing. It wasn't in good running condition, but after some TLC it was a dream. Work done includes - new turbo, ball joints, batteries, a/c, trailer wiring, tires, control arms, axle seals, belt, new suspension, cab lights, neutral safety switch, abs speed sensor, output speed sensor, and APPS. Two years ago it went down on me one night while driving down the interstate, and I'm still trying to fix it. I was on cruise and suddenly lost power, not d…

Hi all, First post here. I bought a 99 24valve about 4 years ago, completely stock, still is today. With having another work truck around it doesn't get driven much. When I bought the truck, it ran perfectly, started every time I turned the key so on and so forth. After sitting awhile, it started acting a bit weird and through a code for the crankshaft position sensor, I replaced with one from Autozone. Tach would die, and stutter/ reduced power, but it would run. Just not right. I did notice when I replaced it looked like it had been replaced before in relation to the grime on the block. Ran well for a bit, then the same thing started happening, I thought I would try ch…

I picked up a 2000 Ram 2500 with the Cummins a few months ago. The PO said that he'd replaced the fuel pump a couple of times, which I should have paid more attention to. Ran fine though for a few months. Recently I had a big miss, or shudder under heavy acceleration onto a highway but ran fine for the rest of the trip. It happened several more times on later trips, usually at gradual acceleration. No CEL at that time. I did get the 0237 code, so got a new MAP sensor hoping that would fix it, but it didn't. I cleaned all grounds and harness connectors. Since then, a few test drives have been OK, with no missing, but even though I cleared the codes, they come…

I purchased my first dodge cummins in December of last year. It is a 2001 3500 4x4 NV5600 with at the time 112,000 miles. I drove it 6 hours home without any hiccups other than the crappy steering which i have since fixed. In January i wrecked the truck coming off of a completely iced over hill and ran backwards into a rock wall doing 55+ mph. The truck drove home afterwards. Once i got it home and fixed the busted lights, the vp44 went out all at once and it died in the road. I install the upgraded thoroughbred diesel VP44, billet tappet cover, and a fass 165. My truck has not ran right since. It has a stutter now. When between 1700-2200 rpm it will randomly stutter almo…

Trans was making funny noise. Tore into it and discovered pieces of a gear in bottom of case. SO, where is best place to source heavy duty parts for the nv4500?

When I started my truck the first time with the new ECM the fuel pressure was at its normal range of 14-15psi. After I shut the truck off I replaced a wire on my switch box and accidentally knocked a wire from the fuel pump relay. When I started it again I noticed I had zero pressure. Thinking I could figure it out quickly, the truck ran out of fuel. Once it was sorted the truck obviously wouldn’t start. I loosened the fass filter and ran the pump until it gushed and then retightened. I then cracked 2 injectors and cranked until they bubbled out fuel. The truck runs but now it takes a a few extra seconds of cranking when cold to start and the fuel pressure gauge d…

I thought I’d share my recent drivetrain upgrade I put in my 01’ 3500 (SRW converted) 6 spd. On transfer case side of things swapping a NP271D in is pretty common for a 2nd gen. I wanted to take it one step farther. It took some trial & error finding what parts will work and what doesn’t. It’s pretty much a modified Ford design. I found a used 08’ NP271D and rebuilt/modified it. Eliminated the leaky Dodge slip yoke tail housing and utilized the rear fixed flange yoke setup from a 06’ NP273F. I bought the rebuild kit, some updated parts & specific seal installers from TorqueKing4x4. I also installed the Ford style companion flange on my Dana 80 along with a…

Pulled the truck into the garage to replace some lights. When I tried to start it the WTS light was flashing and the truck would only crank and not fire. I tried pulling codes and got nothing. I disconnected the batteries for a few minutes and nothing changed. I unplugged the Quadzilla and the WTS light functioned as normal. The truck started right up but instantly idled at 1200rpm and then went into 3cyl idle mode. I checked my idle control switch and it’s in the off position. My throttle is also unresponsive(Timbo). Thanks to my low stall converter I was able to get the truck out of the garage and back into its parking spot. When I parked it the idle dropped to 9…

So 17k on a reman long block, initial 1000 miles were broke in with synthetic oil (against manufacture requirements) as soon as I learned I flushed and refilled with DINO oil. That being said, I'm now at 17k and loosing about a quart every 200 miles. I REALLY believe it is my turbo (original to the truck, currently 451k miles. Not blowing smoke but the tailpipe is sooty... no oil "leaks" under the truck. If the turbo was leaking oil, how would it be indicated? at $600 to get a reman from Thoroughbred Diesel and I just better replacing the turbo than paying a shop $300 just to find the oil leak? Is there a better/cheaper place to get a reman turbo? WHAT is the possib…

On Wednesday I had been on the freeway for about 15 minutes and the engine just shut down and I ultimately got it towed home. I still had/have normal fuel pressure (about 20psi) and the computer appears to be working at least well enough for my code reader to connect but there are no codes showing. Battery voltages is good and the terminal connections are tight. I swapped the Fuel relay with the horn relay and it still worked and also did the same with the ASD and Security relays just in case. At this point the starter motor cranks nice and fast but the engine doesn't even try to start. I tried loosening one of the injector lines and cranking it and I'm not seeing an…

Well, driving home with the travel trailer in tow today pulling a hill at 55 minding my own business truck running great, crested the hill and bam, engine died. Coasted off to the side of the road. Checked fuel pressure from the FASS fuel pump, all good. Still no start. Get it towed home and have codes P0232, P1689 and P1688. Looks like I need an injector pump.

Hi excuse me to disturb you, I have a 98,5 dodge ram 2500 cummins. I ve just changed my vp44 by a rebuilt, I ve changed too injector by rebuilt 75 HP, changed the 6 lines by New, 6 connectors tubes seals, the fuel filter, put transparent hose to see if there is bubbles but no, and I have a problem. The truck start good, the idle doesnt move ( like apps dead), when I accelerate the engine cut off. I restart , it restart good. Before I forget I have installed before I changed all that, a superchips cortex programmer.... I found à little leak on my new injection lines ( 1, 3 4 5) at the connection with tubes... I have no code ... I make a video to explain it... what do you t…

LINK TO THE VIDEO Hey everyone, sorry for the long read but please God read it and help me!! I've been dealing with a persistent and frustrating issue on my truck for years, and it's seriously driving me crazy. As a mechanic, it really eats at me that I haven’t been able to solve it. I'm absolutely racking my brain here, and I'm hoping someone can offer some insight I haven’t considered. The Problem:My truck has a terrible knock at idle that’s so harsh it literally shakes the inside of the cab. It’s loud and clearly audible, especially in person. The knock doesn’t seem to increase with RPM—it’s primarily noticeable at idle—but it does affect the exhaust note, making it s…

Hello everyone, New to the forum here, have a 2000 Dodge 24 valve. I’m a mechanic by trade, bought the the truck off one of our customers. He had this issue towards the end of his ownership, truck would surge during idle and the odd time would throw APPS code but he could still drive it. The trucks had a couple different APPS sensors, OEM and aftermarket. When I bought the truck last summer I did a ton of upgrades/maintenance, starter, alternator, 2 new batteries, FASS and sump, fuel pressure gauge and a bunch of other things non related to the problem. I did all the APPS testing between sensor and ECM and everything checked out. After doin…

So my truck a 2000 5.9 ALWAYS took 11 quarts which would bring it up to the bottom of the top line on the dipstick... Two years ago I had to have a reman long block installed and now 11 quarts makes it look like I'm running a quart over on the dipstick.. Has anyone else noticed a difference, I've seem people arguing on-line about how much oil to fill when doing an oil change so it is possibly a real thing. Just thoughts that have been bugging me.

Had to pull driveshafts because I recently lost 5th gear in my 2000 2500 with nv4500. Rear was a tough one because the bolt heads were rounded off. So I am wanting to convert this yoke to use U-bolts instead. Does anyone have a part number for the U-Bolts that will work for this?

How to drop rpms. Im at 1,200 and need to be about 850. How do I achieve this???

I put a reman NV4500 in about 3 years ago. It started popping out 5th when letting off, so I removed the tail housing to see what broke. The countershaft 5th gear had alot of play, and the countershaft is grooved really bad where the bearing was sitting. So I need at least a new countershaft. But here's my question: I really need to use the truck before I'll be able to rebuild the transmission. So can I put it back together without the countershaft 5th gear, synchronizer assembly, and shift fork and just run it as a 4 speed for a while? I'm going to measure the end play in the main and countershafts, but they seem ok at first glance.

So I've come to the almighty moparman forums seeking help on an unusual issue I'm having. My truck is heavily modified by the previous owner and I'm constantly having to fix one thing or another and chase things. So I have 2 issues now 1 of which I believe I know the issue but don't know a good fix. First issue is I get trans limp mode and a P1689 with no buss on the CCD when turning on the HVAC blower at any speed. Once turned off it goes back to normal. I have taken the ground off for the HVAC controls and the no buss issue also happens without the blower motor running only in face vents or floor vents position. Looking at wiring diagrams I can't tell where any of the …

I have a 1999 Dodge ram 3500 2wd with nv4500. I get a bad vibration at speeds above 55mph it all started when I put a set of old used tires on it. So I thought it was the tires, I had them balanced multiple times, tried balance beads these all changed the vibration one way or another. Changed bead amounts from 3oz all the way to 10 oz. I've done u joints, carrier bearing,tail shaft bearing all with little to no effect. The vibration feels like it's right under my seat and or towards the rear end. The shifter handle will shake badley when I'm on the highway at 55-70mph. Its intermittent it will some times go away for 30 seconds or some then slowly come back and start shaki…