2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Pulled the truck into the garage to replace some lights. When I tried to start it the WTS light was flashing and the truck would only crank and not fire. I tried pulling codes and got nothing. I disconnected the batteries for a few minutes and nothing changed. I unplugged the Quadzilla and the WTS light functioned as normal. The truck started right up but instantly idled at 1200rpm and then went into 3cyl idle mode. I checked my idle control switch and it’s in the off position. My throttle is also unresponsive(Timbo). Thanks to my low stall converter I was able to get the truck out of the garage and back into its parking spot. When I parked it the idle dropped to 9…

Well, driving home with the travel trailer in tow today pulling a hill at 55 minding my own business truck running great, crested the hill and bam, engine died. Coasted off to the side of the road. Checked fuel pressure from the FASS fuel pump, all good. Still no start. Get it towed home and have codes P0232, P1689 and P1688. Looks like I need an injector pump.

I put a reman NV4500 in about 3 years ago. It started popping out 5th when letting off, so I removed the tail housing to see what broke. The countershaft 5th gear had alot of play, and the countershaft is grooved really bad where the bearing was sitting. So I need at least a new countershaft. But here's my question: I really need to use the truck before I'll be able to rebuild the transmission. So can I put it back together without the countershaft 5th gear, synchronizer assembly, and shift fork and just run it as a 4 speed for a while? I'm going to measure the end play in the main and countershafts, but they seem ok at first glance.

Hi excuse me to disturb you, I have a 98,5 dodge ram 2500 cummins. I ve just changed my vp44 by a rebuilt, I ve changed too injector by rebuilt 75 HP, changed the 6 lines by New, 6 connectors tubes seals, the fuel filter, put transparent hose to see if there is bubbles but no, and I have a problem. The truck start good, the idle doesnt move ( like apps dead), when I accelerate the engine cut off. I restart , it restart good. Before I forget I have installed before I changed all that, a superchips cortex programmer.... I found à little leak on my new injection lines ( 1, 3 4 5) at the connection with tubes... I have no code ... I make a video to explain it... what do you t…

Hello everyone, New to the forum here, have a 2000 Dodge 24 valve. I’m a mechanic by trade, bought the the truck off one of our customers. He had this issue towards the end of his ownership, truck would surge during idle and the odd time would throw APPS code but he could still drive it. The trucks had a couple different APPS sensors, OEM and aftermarket. When I bought the truck last summer I did a ton of upgrades/maintenance, starter, alternator, 2 new batteries, FASS and sump, fuel pressure gauge and a bunch of other things non related to the problem. I did all the APPS testing between sensor and ECM and everything checked out. After doin…

So I've come to the almighty moparman forums seeking help on an unusual issue I'm having. My truck is heavily modified by the previous owner and I'm constantly having to fix one thing or another and chase things. So I have 2 issues now 1 of which I believe I know the issue but don't know a good fix. First issue is I get trans limp mode and a P1689 with no buss on the CCD when turning on the HVAC blower at any speed. Once turned off it goes back to normal. I have taken the ground off for the HVAC controls and the no buss issue also happens without the blower motor running only in face vents or floor vents position. Looking at wiring diagrams I can't tell where any of the …

I have a 1999 Dodge ram 3500 2wd with nv4500. I get a bad vibration at speeds above 55mph it all started when I put a set of old used tires on it. So I thought it was the tires, I had them balanced multiple times, tried balance beads these all changed the vibration one way or another. Changed bead amounts from 3oz all the way to 10 oz. I've done u joints, carrier bearing,tail shaft bearing all with little to no effect. The vibration feels like it's right under my seat and or towards the rear end. The shifter handle will shake badley when I'm on the highway at 55-70mph. Its intermittent it will some times go away for 30 seconds or some then slowly come back and start shaki…

My 2000 2500 is going into 3 cylinder high idle even when its 80ºF out. I do have the high idle switches bit they are set so the truck is getting its true readings. Which sensor is causing this?

Needing help with a sporadic p 1689 code. It's the only code I get and it only when I have been driving for a good bit. (Daily 20min drive to work won't trigger it) vp44 is new ish. (2 years may maybe 50k miles) was from DAP and was one with a supposedly rebuilt pump "brain" I have gone through the really helpful guide on this website. Everything tested good except the step on the ECU. Im shure it could be the ECU but want to rule everything else out. Fuel pressure looked good on the quadzilla ecu voltage looked good tps was steady. Truck drives fine but will suddenly go through a fit* and cut in and out then be done and drive fine. It has recently started to rev on st…

I had some nasty rust on the tailgate. Idaho is using really corrosive salt this year. This is not to be perfect bit as a stop gap till I am done with my chemo or when I have the funds for the body work. Thanks to Mark he's got a nice palm sander and good assortment of sanding disc's. There where two spots where 40 grit grinder was used to dig at the deep pitted metal. Then using black primer to match the gloss black I bought today. Help bond the new paint to the metal and hopefully stop the rusting process. I've got a few spots on the body where rust blisters are starting and need the blister broke open metal cleaned up …

What are my options for upgrading rear end to posi? 2001 4wd 2500

200℉ Cummins ThermostatI've been experimenting with hotter coolant temperatures and found for most daily drivers this is a good way to go. The added heat actually will improve the MPG number just slightly and reduce EGT's slightly. Gates - 34212 - 200℉This is direct replacement number. It will fit into your 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Ram Cummins 5.9L engine without any modifications. ResultsSummer operation floats right around 204 to 210℉ coolant temperatures. With the tuning I've done on Quadzilla the engine oil temperature will stay 30 to 35℉ cooler than coolant. This stays the same for even wintertime operations with no issues so far in one year of operation even towing. In …

I am looking at the Spyntech Shorty Kit Dodge 00-15 Shorty Kit and the Yukon Gear & Axle (YA WU-04) Spin Free Locking Hub Conversion Kit Yukon Gear & Axle (YA WU-04) Spin Free Locking Hub Conversion Kit for Dodge SRW Dana 60 AAM Differential There are other kits but I don't know much about them and frankly don't know that much about the above kits. Eventually, I will have to replace the 22 year old wheel bearings in my fron axle. When I do get to that point, I would like to install one of the hub kits to eliminate the constant engagement of the front driveshaft driving on the road. I prefer manual locking hubs. I need to determine which is the best kit to g…

Hi all, First post here. I bought a 99 24valve about 4 years ago, completely stock, still is today. With having another work truck around it doesn't get driven much. When I bought the truck, it ran perfectly, started every time I turned the key so on and so forth. After sitting awhile, it started acting a bit weird and through a code for the crankshaft position sensor, I replaced with one from Autozone. Tach would die, and stutter/ reduced power, but it would run. Just not right. I did notice when I replaced it looked like it had been replaced before in relation to the grime on the block. Ran well for a bit, then the same thing started happening, I thought I would try ch…

I said i'd have some questions about my dads truck so here goes... 2001 Ram 2500 24 valve, 47RE automatic. Transmission was rebuilt years ago before he had the truck. not sure what all was done to it specifically. It will randomly kick out of Overdrive sometimes cruising around 55mph, sometimes cruising at 60/65mph. It will kick in and out of overdrive 2 or 3 times in a row and then go back in and hold. When he first described the problem to me i wasn't sure if it was O/D or Lock up giving an issue.. So i did the first test in the Alternator noise thread about isolating the alternator by removing the field wires and removing the 140 amp fuse in the box, wen…

Yesterday while on my way home from out of town, I had just finished filling up, the engine sounded "odd", louder and with a rattle. It sounded like my older Ford Diesel when started cold with the cold timing advance engaged. About 10 miles down the road I lost most power, felt like I had maybe 20% throttle available and the CEL came on. I pulled off but couldn't pull a code. It felt fine at low speed so I reset the CEL and continued on but the problem returned after a few miles on the freeway. I was eventually able to pull a P0216 code and I've read up on what that usually means. Ended up limping home at 45mph taking back roads when possible. I thought it could ha…

Alternator and PCM protection What I'm going to describe is a rare event. This is possible with any alternator stock ND or Bosch or even the aftermarket alternators that are bigger amperage output. In a nutshell, at any point, the blue field lead happens to short to ground the entire short is routed back through the PCM. Since the PCM is protected by a shared fuse of 20 amps this means the circuit board fails during these events. There have been two cases of this which is @pepsi71ocean and myself with the same failure. The only difference is mine failed so badly that it burned a hole through the PCM circuit board making the PCM unrepairable. I was forced to replace th…

Well strange one. Owned my 24v since new, no matter how long it's been parked sometimes years with disconnected batteries. They key fobs have always worked and the truck started no problem. Twice in the last 6 months my key fobs have stopped working and needed to be re coded to work and allow the truck to start! I didn't know this truck had any type of security immobiliser on it! My ram is 99 with the sport package. Does this sound like a CTM issue? If so are they plug and play? Or do they require coding? Can I remove the factory immobiliser? Thanks for any help 🙏 I'm in the UK so it's hard work get…

so i have a 2001 24valve 6 speed and i screwed up on welding some exhaust on the truck, i had the batteries unhooked but i forgot to move my ground when welding a exhaust hanger from the frame back to the exhaust and when i tried to weld the exhaust it searched for the ground through the engine block and so far i found that it took out my CTM and ABS module, when i hooked the battery back up the headlight stayed on and the wipers stayed on also with the abs pump running, i narrowed it down to i uplugged the ctm and the lights and wipers stop, the truck would start for few seconds then die so i unhook the pcm and truck will run and take pedal up to about 2000rpm, with the …

Anyone ever do a ram air intake on our trucks? Bhaf seemed to be a good help and a good friend swore by the ram air intake on his VMAX bike. I feel like it would help in our application (diesel no real air fuel ratio no throttle blade) but I know it's mostly a looks thing on regular gas cars. Just curious if anyone has ever messed with it.