2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have been running either 2 stroke or OptiLube in my rig. I have a 50 mile round trip work commute at highway speeds (65mph) and I almost always have some "diesel rattle", sometimes more noticeable than not. Yesterday I forgot to get some additive out of the garage so when I filled up, I had nothing to add to the tank so I pumped 30 gals of B20. I noticed within about 25 minutes, a huge decrease in engine noise. And again this morning on the way to work, it was so much quieter. I can't believe bio does a better job at lubrication/noise reduction than 2 stroke does. Has anyone else noticed this? Is long term bio use aok? Any advantage to bio and something like Optilube co…

Hi, Currently I'm dealing with a misfire when hot. Mostly noticeable at idle, lower rpm and slower speeds. It will also make a crackling sound when driving at low rpm. It often hunts for the right idle rpm if I let off the throttle. If I snap the throttle, there's a delay of like 1 second and then it will blow some white smoke like the timing is off. When I go to take off, if I push the throttle too fast at low rpm, there's like a short flat spot in the apps where the truck runs weird and crackles almost like it's choking out. I have tested and replaced almost all of the fuel related components including injectors 4 times, the pump, and all the sensors …

Ok this is my first time posting here so if I'm missing something please let me know. I'm relatively new to the diesel world but have read multiple posts on here as well as other sites about replacing a head gasket. My first question is do you need to resurface the block in addition to the head when doing a hg replacement on these 24v cummins? Also Is it common for the head to be cracked at 200k This is my dd and I noticed that I am leaking oil right where the head and block meet. I cleaned it up and drove it some more and it definitely looks like it is leaking from the head gasket. I would need to replace it during a weekend and …

truck cranking no start, no bus,wait to start light stay on very dim. I have been chasing this no bus issue and as soon i unplug ecm everything comes back to normal no abs and gauges start back working, so i decided to take ecm off and was a ratling noise comming from the inside i oppened an one of those capacitor came unsoldier so i soldier back put ecm back and no work! still shows no bus wait to start light dim and no gauges working so I decided to send ecm to Auto Computer Specialist and they told me my ecm was fried no fixing so i need a new one they want 1599 since my ecm can not be repaired does not count as core. I found a cheaper one somewhere else…

Truck currently does not start I can disconnect one data link wire from vp and it will fire up and run. Currently it has dtc P0523 oil pressure sensor voltage high code.

I know there are a lot of guys out here that love their oversized tires and I will admit they look super cool. Now to make it all come together and make it a rocket ship on rails you need the proper final ratio. Optimal for most daily drivers that are here optimal final ratio to the ground is 3.73:1 after the tires. The problem is any size larger than a factory 265's on 3.55 gears is going to lower the ratio. I created a chart of the final ratio with some tire sizes to see the results. Subscribing members only...

Ok, I know things can cascade, now I'm wondering what all sensors I SHOULD replace. Started with a replaced VP, was running rough and lots of white smoke.... so replaced with remanufactured Injectors and new tubes... still white smoke but was improving. Scanned for pending codes and nothing showed up. Took for a test drive the smoke cleared up A LOT but still loss of power going into 3rd gear and again going into 4th gear... and then it just shut down on me with a code of P0112... fired right back up and got it home with the same power loss on gear changes. Can an IAT shut the engine down? Should I replace any other sensors? I replaced the IAT, MAP and C…

Try to keep this short but its in depth. Little over a year ago vp was going out so got one from DAP, fixed for 3-4 months. Then slight surging started, best way to describe is like a trailer with half load of water. It only did it when cold, warm eng and never noticed it. Time goes by and its getting worse so send it back to DAP and they put a new board on top. Fixed, 3-4 months go by same thing again. Sent it in they test it say everything checks good, install and its getting worse. All this time it wont throw a code, its now completely dying for a split second when cold and still wont throw a code. I can set cruise control and Im pretty certain its not doing it or its…

Over the last couple of weeks I noticed my TC was acting weird. When its engaged over 45mph and I hit the brakes the TC disengages like its supposed to but then immediately reengages as soon as I let off the brake and its a noticeable reengagement. It has never done that before. It would always stay off unless I got back on the gas pedal. I scanned for codes and it had 2 codes. One for APPS low voltage and one for charging system low. So I bought a new Timbo APPS and installed it today. The TC is still acting the same. I checked the alternator and it is charging normally. I did notice that the AC voltage is up though. When I first did the WT mod the AC noise was…

Does anyone out there know how to troubleshoot the intake air heater?

Just checking out there to see whats the latest on apps sensors. I assume Timbo apps are still the go to? I looked up TPS on Parts Geek and it showed the entire bell crank included for 180 bucks just curious if anyone has tried them.

I finally pulled the trigger. The OEM filter had to go. It's been on there the 3 years or so that I've owned the truck. Filter minder wasn't showing anything but it was filthy anyway. So it was time for a BHAF. I had to replace the air filter anyway so why not upgrade?

I'm asked frequently why I consistently "tinker" with my truck even though it's running good, no maintenance issues to address usually, just want to flip the hood and stare in amazement sometimes. But, this time I spotted something while I was installing a BHAF this morning. The lower exhaust manifold bolt on the rear cylinder was backing out! I grabbed the tools and tightened her up and checked the rest. The upper bolt on the rear cylinder was about half a turn loose as well. All the others were fine. Glad I caught that!

I'm asked frequently why I consistently "tinker" with my truck even though it's running good, no maintenance issues to address usually, just want to flip the hood and stare in amazement sometimes. But, this time I spotted something while I was installing a BHAF this morning. An exhaust manifold bolt was backing out on the bottom rear cylinder. Had I not "tinkered" with the truck this morning I would not have spotted this and possibly lost the bolt all together. I tightened this one down and checked the others. The upper bolt on the same cylinder was about half a turn loose, the rest were good. Glad I caught that!

So I've been getting familiar with it a little, its still greek to me. I havent tapped the vp yet, just trying to see what to monitor. Went to youtube and saw a setting that had 9 different things in a square box with a lot of info on it. Im running an Iphone and maybe its on on it because of that I dont know. But cant seem to there from here. Anyone know what Im trying to explain that can tell me what to do to get it on my phone?

Hey folks, It seems I’ve gotten myself into a situation. About 2 weeks ago my alternator started going out. It would charge fine for a while then drop voltage to 12.3-12.4 and sometimes completely off to around 11v. Monitoring with the gauge on my edge. When charging it would bounce from 13-14v. This started when I was about 300 miles from home. I limped the truck home without replacing it and noticed that on the back of the alternator the clip which secured the plug had broken and would not click and secure. Figured this was my problem and engineered a zip tie fix but didn’t drive the truck again until yesterday. On that drive the truck started giving me the 30 sec…

3500 02 cummins drw hey guys i just took off my drain plug for my rear diff after driving about 3 weeks after changing the oil right after i purchased it, when i took the plug out a bunch of pressure released and went pooof. when i inspected the cap it had a coating of what looked like a gray silicone but it was obviously metal. ive never seen anything like it, no chunks or long bits just what looked like drywall mud. would this be normal? i just got the truck and when i first serviced the rear there was little no no metal. i put75-140 in the rear. i dont know if this would make a difference but i ended up having to repair the front end diff as it was pus…

Hey everyone, new paying member here, having issues with my truck and looking for some guidance. My truck is an 01 24v HO. I have had zero drivability issues since purchasing it about seven years ago until yesterday. Driving down the road as per normal when the engine just suddenly shuts off. I coasted it to the side of the road noticing the check engine light was on so immediatley cycled the key to view codes. I was met with P0230, P1688 and P1689. Luckily I was semi close to my shop so had some good Samaritans help me push it the rest of the way there. The truck is a crank but no fire scenario. I first turned the key on and confirmed the lift pump started and primed. I …

All - planning a VP44 replacement soon and I'm wondering while in the vicinity if I should take care of a few other things. Namely tappet cover gasket, vacuum/steering pump seal, cam sensor. Think this "while i'm there" question has been asked a million times. What say the folks here?

I have a 317k mile truck that only sometimes, runs poorly in the lower gears. 11k miles ago, the original trans gave up the ghost. A friend of mine built a trans with a triple disc Suncoast converter. Immediately the thing drove like crap. Stock truck, no mods, 2400rpm just to 2nd gear and BANG! shifted up into 3rd. And same into od. There's honestly no way to make this long story short. This last Thanksgiving, I spent it under the hood, doing the w-t ground mod and apps reset. So after it was done, I took it for a test run. Upon startup, idiot light indicated batts=no charge. Stopped at the store 2 miles down the road realizing I never set the 150 amp breaker. F…