2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have 3/8" fuel line everywhere on my truck and was looking at getting Beans sump kit for next month's project, which comes with a 1/2" fitting. Can I run 1/2" from the tank to the fuel filter or should I run 3/8"?

I know that fuel line size has been beat to death here and everyone SWEARS you HAVE to run 1/2" line to get any performance at all. I am wondering why that is so. Think about this for a minute. Assuming you get 10 MPG fuel mileage, most of you get at least that much. At 10 MPG you use 6 gallons of fuel at 60 MPH. At 5 MPG you would use 12 gallons per hour and at 2.5 MPG!!! you would use 24 gallons per hour.Now, has anyone ever taken the line off of the VP-44 and put it into a gallon container and bypassed the pump for one minute? I am guessing that it would about fill the container in a minute. I have not tried it yet but I will once I relocate my pump. That would be 60 g…

I've been trying to figure why I have what feels like a fuel starvation problem about 10 minutes after startup. Talked to Eric at Vulcan and he suggested that maybe a line was sucking air. I felt around up at where the lines attach to the fuel tank module and both lines would slide around on the nipples. This seems like it could be the problem as if there were a slight leak, as the truck sat for a while the fuel pickup line leaking would allow the fuel to lose vacuum and cause an air pocket, that after startup would work it's way up to the engine. You guys that have some experience with this stuff...Is this normal? How do those lines clamp to the nipples? Since I ca…

Looking for the best way to re plumb between the fuel filter and the injection pump. I need to include a connection for the fuel pressure gauge and a way to bleed off air from the system following filter change. I like the needle valve concept as a way to shut down the cross connection and act as a snubber. Want to eliminate the banjo bolts. Someone must have pictures. Also sources for the parts would be appreciated.

I've owned my Dodge for over 4 years now, and have upgraded the lift pump, which is the raptor 100 gph on the side of the block, edge ez, 4 inch exhaust, and I believe it has at least 60hp injectors that were installed by the previous owner. I am at 400 rwhp now, tested at the hunting for horse power up in cda. My question that I am asking, why is my fuel pressure dropping down 5psi at WOT? I have spent many hours trying to find information on this, and its hard to get a definite answer. the Diesel mechanic I take my truck to says its normal, but I know its not, especially since my truck will start to stutter if I let off the pedal after stomping into it for to long( by n…

I have 1/4 inch line from top of fuel filter and banjo bolt on ip. The gauge from ff reads 10psi the gauge from 1p reads 15 psi. These are mech. gauges is 1/4 line to big for an accurate reading ? THANKS ED

Can some one give me the torque spec for the vp44 side? I think it's 28ft pounds on the injector side and 89 inch pounds for the injector hold down. Crows foot pretty much mandatory for putting in new injectors and getting the right torque spec?

Sorry if this is not the place to post this but I have found a chart with the latest fuel HFRR values with the addition of bio fuel. Since most fuel stations will have between 2% and 5% biodiesel I thought this would be great info for us VP44 powered trucks. I am having difficulty posting the chart if someone can help I will get it up asap.

after searching for a fuel lab to do some home testing.. I found this site. http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf It is 7 years old, but had some pretty good info on various additives still on the shelves today. I always wondered what the hfrr stood for, and in a nut shell, they take a steel ball bearing, and it's rubbed across a steel bar at high frequency for 90 minutes, immersed in the test fuel. At that time, the ball bearing is microscopically inspected for wear, and the 'scar' is measured in microns. the actual measurement of the scar is the fuel rating.. I can't cut and paste that pag…

I did a pretty good bit of running around frome Friday night to this morning and just figured I would post some pics of the mileage. it was better than it had been all week but since it warmed up i wasn't having to go through long warm ups with truck. I have the SG2 set by GPS on speed and have not messed with the setting for when coasting.Most of the driving was at 60MPH with Edge on 5x5. I played around in town a little and turned Edge down to 3x5 to get a little smoke when I was shifting. And I had a short 30-40 mile run at 65-67MPH with Edge on 5x5.

Been checking my fuel mileage since I installed my 2nd hand motor and running 60-65 been getting 15.2 pretty regiously. (I need to up date my weight on my sig. but anyway I weigh around 11k.) Getting 14 pulling trailer 7k. My best was 16.3 driving 55-58. Now that is stock everything except 5" exhaust and BHAF.Today I put my DDP50hp injectors in and we'll see what it does. I now this eng. is a lot quieter. Next I will put EZ back on. I can say this stock s----

Changed out vp44 a while back and cant belive the fuel mileage increse.Went from 15 mpg to 18mpg,truck is heavy 9900LBS

For those who aren't familiar my truck is a 96 GMC Yukon with an '02 24 Valve, it is backed by a 6 speed Allison transmission. The tires are 285/75/17 and I have regeared so that at cruising speed (70 MPH) I am right at 1960 RPM. I am currently getting about 10 MPG and I am trying to figure out why. I run a Quadzilla on standard tune, level 4 and I have a bit of a lead foot but most of my driving is freeway miles. I also run a FASS 150 and a 5" straight exhaust with 4" down pipe. Now then...at cruising speed I am approximately 20% throttle and my EGT's are in the low to mid 800's. My load ranges between 30 and 36% based on the slope of the road. The boost at c…

I have heard people talk about fuel millage being in the 20's and maintaining the ideal 1800 +/- rpm, but iI run down the road at 55 mph @ 1500 rpm - 70 mph @2000 in overdrive, 55mph @2000 rpm with overdrive off.In order to keep @ 1800 rpm i have to run 45 mph with overdrive off or 65 mph in overdrive.I am running 305/75/16/10 tires 32.6 in tall with 3.54 gears, would changing to 4.10 gears help. I had factory size when i purchased the truck which was 265/75/16/10 or 31.8 tall and was about the same.I am getting around 17 mpg now but diesel just hit 3.99 gal and gas went down to 3.21 gal Most of my driving is hwy, very little stop and go.I thinking of upgrading to 4 in ex…

Guess I need to buy a complete unit. Sender/float is bad and also I tore filter trying to remove it. Wheres a good source for a complete unit. or should I just change out those 2 parts

I currently have fuel module and tank out, going to re-route fuel line and few other things. Thumbing thru new TRD part magazine today...they have the gasket that goes on top of module. Mine is in-tacked and I don't see any cracks. And can't remember reading any problems with these. But...Is it a good idea to replace with new? I'd hate to drain and pull this tank in the future again just for a gasket. Do they go bad? What would you do? Thanks

Two questions about fuel module 1. Bottom of fuel module there is a couple screen filters. I broke mine yesterday trying to clean the module up. With an Airdog and 2 micron filter, do I even need to have a screen? 2. If screen is not needed, can I cut off the bottom and extend draw straw to make sure zero chance of ¼ tanks issues? Thanks

I have a few left over parts from the fuel tank area after a “mechanic fixed ” my fuel system. Maybe I should just throw the parts in the garbage? but then again maybe someday might come in handy for me or for somebody else. Fuel module… The straw was actually the thing creating tension to keep it expanded inside the tank. Vulcan Diesel tried to fix and drilled out basket. Didn’t work so well, so I bought a new one. I was going to install some springs to create tension. ***Question…How much tension do you think is good? Maybe 3 pounds, 5 pounds? FASS drawstraw… Where the plastic pipe slides onto the nipple inside of tank is suc…

The stuff I've been using makes this claim. It's made from veggies now vs. petrol. What do you guys think Lubricity : D6079 HFRR lowered wear at 1-5 treat rate .37mm. Important for increasing lubricity in lower sulfur fuels. High heat at injector tip ( can weld plunger to barrel ) additives must add lubricity for longevity and proper operation. Well below CAT limit, .52 mm @140F allowance by ASTMD6079. PASS http://www.lcdinc.com/index.php

don't know if this is the right place to ask this , how hard is it to install a elec fuel press gauge ? looks like i have to put it in the bottom of the fuel filter canister ? also how hard is it to do a raptor or air dog with changing all the fittings and droping the tank ? im not that bad with mechanics , i did the a/c evap in the truck and the a/c compresor