2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My truck is a 2001. I was just wondering exactly where the stock transmission temperature is actually getting read from. I have a Edge Juice sensor in a goerend deep pan. The difference in temp between the Edge sensor and the truck sensor varies between 15-30 degrees. I ask because the other day it was 95 out and I was picking up some firewood rounds and my truck sensor hit 228. About a five mile drive with 4 stop lights. At the time I didn't have the Edge sensor up on my screen so I have no idea what it was at.

I need someone smarter than me. I feel like I'm playing jeopardy. The answer is - when driving in 3rd gear or od front servo pressure is 55-60 until I just back off the throttle slightly then it drops to 22. Until you Rev it up then pressure goes to 55 and away I go. All the other pressures check out just fine. Tried disconnecting the tv cable and then holding the tv cable at part throttle. Didn't help. When I manually shift into second pressure drops to 0. What do I check? What causes the front servo to engage or dis engage? Sorry to be a pest, I'm just scratching my head.

Ok, 2001 dodge cummins 4x4 333000 miles. Original transmission. Barely any flakes at transmission oil changes. Driving the truck at 35 mph and 3rd gear. Letting up slightly on throttle it downshifts to second. Takes lots of throttle to kick back into 3rd. Also does the same thing at higher speeds downshifting from od to 3 when going down a hill or letting up on throttle. I assumed it was the gov solenoid and transducer. Changed that with the kit from cassadia transmission on eBay. It didn't change anything. Adjusted tv cable. Didn't change the problem maybe moved the speed slightly as to when it happens. Took it to a shop I trust for them to run it on sc…

We recently purchased a 98.5 laramie slt, and we have fixed the boost sensor the tps and replaced the filter, we are now looking to replace the lift pump. We rented a fuel pressure gauge and hooked it up and we got idle pressure of 19 to 20 and reed pressure of 10 to 11, we have been told that it should run a constant pressure of at least 14 to 16. When we removed it we noticed some wires were cut, yellow with a white tracer going into the ecm and it is both wires. We have done a lot to this truck and we are at a loss, when we rev it up the pressure drops and the engine starts to run flat has no power. Please help us.

Hey all, so finally got around to changing my coolant. It went fairly well. Started with draining as much as I could through the rad drain. I parked my truck facing on my slight downhill slope and then jacked the rear up as much as I could. Unfortunately I only got about 4-4.5 gallons out. Anyway, then I closed the drain and flushed with garden hose for a few mins on high idle until the water coming out was flat and no longer foamy. Open d the drain at the end just to flush that a little as well. Then shut off the water and let the truck run for a few seconds til water stopped coming out the upper rad hose. Then shut truck off and allowed to drain. Next put thermosta…

Year of truck: 2000Motor: 5.9 CumminsMods: None...However, I just had the AC guy evacuate and refill the AC to his spec. How is the truck primarily used: Just used to go to work, however, i recently purchased the truck from a guy that wasnʻt using it much. Seems like it was sitting for quite sometime. When did the issue start, and if it's intermittent or all the time: The truck turned off last week thursday, and restarted easily. On friday(7/22) i parked it on a hill(running) and it died. I rolled it down and on the side of my house and now it wonʻt start. It throws a P0123 and P1639 code and wont start for sh!t. I can hear the Lift Pump priming, and hit the schrader valv…

I've been lurking here since I bought my truck in February and love this place. I have leavened quite a bit so far and know there is plenty else to learn. I have to things to say/ask so bear with me. To go along with the title, I was headed home for lunch on Friday. Heard a little noise but didn't really think anything of it. Then I noticed my air not blowing could, looked at the gauges and knew the belt was gone. When I pulled over to check it and call Good Sams for a tow, I looked under the hood and saw the pulley for the fan being held on by 2 of the 6 screws and those 2 were loose. Good thing nothing else was damaged. I am wondering how many of you …

I'll just leave this here.... http://www.scottsonline.com/groupitem.php?Item=2383&Groups=277 And DISCUSS!

Last night i did a transmission fluid change, filters and bands. All went well with the service portion. Real wtf moment was when referring to the chiltons manual and it told me that it only takes 3 PINTS. uhm, no. The was more than just 3 pints in the pan when i dropped it. When i bought the fluid from the auto store, guy told me his computer told him 4 quarts. So i obliged and bought 4 quarts. I poured in 3 and got a reading. Ran the gear selector through all gears then put in neutral. Said it was still good. Then i took it for a test drive. Initially, it wouldn't move then a moment later i had pressure. I put in atf4+ this time. D…

My truck (99, 2x4, auto, quad cab), is fixing to spin 200K & it occurred to me that I have not done any maintenance on the injectors & I was wondering if there is a cleaning/maintenance interval on the injectors. Is there such a thing as injector Maintenance like there is for Gasser injectors (cleaning, flowing, etc)? Yea I know they are different critters, but they do have similarities. thanks Bob

First off let me say... I've followed some of the advise here and double checked a bunch of stuff. The transmission is over filled enough that the sensor is submerged in fluid constantly even in 5th gear and transfer case in neutral. As for the shift quality after nearly 1,000 miles already is still really tight feeling and not sloppy. As for transmission fluid temps empty running I see no more that 130*F tops at 68 MPH after 40 miles of driving even climbing grades. If the morning temperatures are down around 45*F it takes nearly a full 20 miles to rise off of the 100*F mark of the gauge. At midday with 75-80*F temps outside its barely reaching 130*F with flat travel mig…

Hey all, So based on the pics Im pretty sure I need to rebuild my turbo sometimes before too long. I had a thread on here about it before, but decided it wasnt as urgent as I thought. I thought any shaft play at all was bad, and thanks to you all I learned that is not the case. Anyway, I changed my oil today and I was wondering what you all think of these pics. It doesnt seem to rub at all when I spin it by hand and even when I push it to the side and try to get it to, but in the lower left there are a couple spots that look like they could have touched....by the way I didnt mess with it too much because I've heard its very bad to spin a turbo without oil circulatin…

For those who may have an answer..... I recently noticed while on a long hot highway camping adventure over the weekend that my boost pressure would do something I cant fully explain. For those of you who know my style, I generally dont pull with very hot EGT's. For me 1200* is HOT and I prefer to stay under that temperature just because it keeps the engine temperatures happier.....and its just really hot in my opinion. Nonetheless, grossing about 22k pounds, I was pulling hard up some long grades and because of the immense summer triple digit heat it was hard to keep the EGT's from climbing up to the 1200* range under heavy throttle. Not really…

OK guys the ol dodge has developed a new issue when I steer sharp like on a switchback curve I bump in like feeling on the steering when straighting up. I checked for bad wheel bearing and ujoints in the front and tie rods and bal joints all is tight a also checked and added some power steering fluid even though it was still above the add mark could a power steering pump be causing this

updated i had a thought to get a database kinda of egt temps while running at a certain speed to see where we all stand compared to each others different setup. also to assist in baselining some info. Mainly its to get an idea of EGTs with each setup. If you have a gauge post up, if not dont guess. (this isnt a competition, its to help all of us out) I will start... @70mph my egts are appx 750F no headwind and outside temp about 75 deg @65mph my egts are appx 620F slight crosswind temp 70 35" tires 6th gear nv5600 stock setting RV275 injectors HX35 level road surface NO load

So, my truck has been driving okay, then out of nowhere, it starts to surge. buck and have no power. I was about 6 miles from home, so I limp it home. it idles okay, but any acceleration and it surges. sputters, etc. Put it on the code reader, and the first one was P0216, VP44 timing, the next code, P0230, and then the companion code P1693. along with P0521, P0460, P1693. Dead VP44?! (Blue Chip) and I've only put abut 80k with a new Raptor lift pump. My fuel gauge was not working, and the float level error code with almost no fuel pressure ~10 psi.

Ive been chasing down this problem for about 2 years and barely drive my truck because of the issue. So I have upgraded to the newest airdog II, new MWFI vp44, and 150 hp injectors, new head gasket, studs, and timbos apps. If you listen to my truck from about 100 feet away, you can hear it running strange but not picked up well on video. It sounds like a random ticking coming from engine like the cylinders aren't firing all the way or something but it is NOT a misfire (more of a random skip). This happens throughout all engine rpms. When im cruising going 55 and let off the gas SLIGHTLY (so little load on engine), the truck starts sputtering and can be noticed on tach (+/…

Can a stripped out oil feed fitting on the top side of your turbo cause vacuum issues else where in the system, cruise controle, a/c vent/defrost vent switch not to work. Etc. ?

Ever since i hit the deer, the truck has been making a funny noise. Anytime i hit the brakes or turn the steering wheel, i get an oscillating chirp noise that follows vehicle speed. I can't feel it in the steering or braking but annoying. Could it be coincidence, and be front u joints or??? Ugh...

Looking to re-torque my trans oil pan bolts but I keep finding different numbers. Looks like the FSM calls for 125in.lbs but looking through some other threads on this people recommend going slightly above that? Just looking for what you guys would recommend. Also, looking to change the fluid in the rear diff. I have a dana 70 with the LSD metal tab on one of the bolts. FSM calls for 3.4l but I've heard overfilling is ok/better? That true? Also what type of fluid should I go with in the rear?