2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm currently in the project of replacing u-joints and bearings on the front axles. How do I get the bearing housing off? (Of course I have already taken the four bolts out.. And the axle nut.) I have taken a solid hammer to it, including a chisel and 5 pound hammer. Any tips or tricks that you guys would recommend? Thanks in advance!

I had a guy call me today that has been having some trouble with his 24v and I wanted to see what the experts here have to say about it. Here is a rundown of what I know about his issues. A few months back he told me he was having a dead pedal issue and the shop the truck was at replaced the apps and it still did it so then they ended replacing the vp44 and lift pump. Now the current problem he has is the lift pump runs when you turn the key on but then once the truck is started it seems the lift pump shuts off and the engine will start stumbling and smoking. I'm almost thinking it could be a problem in the ECM but I really hope for him …

02 3500 dually 6sp NV5600 Rear wheel drive 3.55 ratio dana 80 Are you or do you know of anyone running 3.31 ratio gears in a dana 80? I'm currently running 3.55's and would like to switch to 3.31's so I can run lower rpm's in 5th (1:1) gear while towing. If you have done this I would like to hear about what you think & how your truck is performing while running 3.31's. Thanks!

I experienced code 1688 a while ago and also experienced a dead pedal (completely dead, does nothing). yesterday I replaced the 44 with a new one, got the truck running but the pedal does absolutely nothing. any ideas? thanks, greg

So the next problem to fix! I have been driving the truck down to 1/4 tank, and I'll fill it up. Every so often the gauge will read empty and stay empty for while, and then come up to full. No it stays on empty even after I filled it up all the way, topping off to make sure.. Is there a loose electrical connection?, or is the tank sending unit bad? I looked on the past forums and could not find anything similar,. Thanks.again folks.

So, I was towing my boat back and no issues until I went to put it in reverse. It was acting like it was stuck. After I backed in the boat, I put the brake on, unhooked the boat. Jumped back in and then tried putting it in first, with the brake on... So, soon after getting home that I tried to put it in reverse and no go. the pedal went right to the floor, and it would not go into gear unless the engine was off. Is this a broken clutch fork, stuck throwout bearing.and do I need a new clutch master/salve cylinder? I rebuilt the tranny last year, replaced the clutch 2 years ago, and now have 350,000 miles, with about 70k on the clutch. Thanks for any he…

Hi guys, I would like to know if somebodys would like to get aluminum engine oil pan? Maybe I'm gonna make somes or at least one for my truck to give a try!! I'll try to take pictures when building for buyers if interested.....

Hey guys, Just a quick question here. Can the Edge comp be turned off and left hooked up and not hurt anything? Like when you go through adjusting the sub level and the lights go off before returning to the main level? if you just leave it off is that ok? Just curious because I don't like leaving it on when I take the truck in to get inspected and all....

Hey all, just looking for some ideas here. My truck has one of the cast iron eyelets, the ones on the head that the intake horn bolts screw into, broken off. It hasn't been a big deal because I have an aftermarket horn that uses studs and nuts instead of bolts. So I just have a nut on the other end, inside the intake plenum, with loctite to make sure it doesn't come off and get sucked in. I am about to take the intake horn off again to replace my powesteering pump and reseal my vacuum pump and I was wondering if I would be better off with a lock nut and loctite just as an extra safety to make sure that nut doesn't come off, but I'm not sure if that would be safe eith…

I like nice OEM style buttons to control things, It could be EB or TC lockup or whatever. Or the dodge version I looks like it might be a pretty easy install. Anyone ever been down this road?

Truck died and will not start. Checked fuel pressure, 10 psi. Decided to change fuel pump to Airdog FRRP-100. Now with Airdog FRRP-100 pressure is at 10 psi (which I believe is low for priming pressure) with Airdog pressure screw all the way increase via screw. Cracked VP44 return line banjo bleed than tried to bleed at 1,3,5 but pressure was low very little flow. What would cause the pressure to be so low? There seems to be air still in the lines and can't seem to get it out- think be cause the pressure is so low. I did change the VP44 out in December & fuel pump (Airtek) ~year ago any suggestions?

I normally invoice all my work but I couldn't remember when the last time I'd changed the engine coolant. I came across these coolant test strips for $7.99 and free shipping. Tried them out and seam to work well telling me my coolant is over 60% antifreeze and the Ph is 7.0. It not recommended with red or orange coolants. So spending $8 has saved me over $45 in antifreeze and distilled water and an hour of labor. With 50 to a bottle the average vehicle owner has a life time supply. https://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-311519-Coolant-Testing-Strips/dp/B000MIUJMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466743866&sr=1-1&keywords=coolant+test+strips

I finally beat my old MPG high mark of 27.20 now done it twice with 27.22 and 27.46 MPG. Just need that little bit more to go to reach 28 MPG.

Gents, I think I am going to pick up a set of Fast coolers from Genos Garage. Since they come in sets of two would anyone be interested in buying the other one? I don't think I can fit the passenger side with the 5" exhaust. I just want the pre-tapped hole for the temp sensor, and some extra cooling. If no one wants one it's going up for sale on the classifieds here and on CF. I'd be willing to pay more than half since I would be getting the one that's tapped. @Mopar1973Man if you're interested PM me and we can work an even lower price since you keep this place running! https://www.genosgarage.com/product/fc-6-spd-dg/transmission-coolers

Hay guys could you give me a national seal number for the the transfer case output I'm 99.9% sure mine has the np241DLD but everyone keeps giving me the larger seal I'm assuming for the DHD

Hi guys, I've just finished my rebuild 47re and it has a flaring shift from 3rd gear to 4th? Would like to know what could cause this?? Don't want to messed with it again!!!! Thank you!

Hey guys, need a lil help here. So i had to do some serious tear down of the truck to get to my tappet cover. I found that it was leaking back when i did my rear main crank seal last time i was underneath the truck. Needless to say to get to the tappet cover you have to pull the injection pump and lines 1,2, and 4 so that you can get the vp44 out of the way. I was very careful when i was removing the vp44 to make sure that I didnt drop the key down the timing cover. I aligned the key-way with the TDC mark on the top of the timing cover so that wouldnt happen. Removed the pump and went about my business. On re-installation i put the pump back in made sure everything…

I'm relocating my ddrp pump close to fuel tank ,need to make a 10' cable what size should I go with?Does anybody knows how many amps the ddrp2 draws at 16 psi?

Hey guys, so I've had my edge comp for a little while now and I'm starting to experiment with settings for fuel mileage. I also have 75hp injectors. On 3x5 I got 17.5 over the course of a week. Then I tried 5x2 because of what Mike said in the past about 5x5 being best, but I had to use 5x2 to keep smoke in check. I will be filling up today, but so far it looks like I got right about the same for mileage. Shouldn't I have gotten better? My route and driving style didn't change.... I also read some really old threads on other forums that were talking about unplugging the wire tap to get less fuel and more timing at the higher levels. Is this something I sh…

Yesterday my wife and I were out running errands, heading home on the highway when the truck began to sputter, blow blue smoke, and then completely died. We got towed home and how I'm starting to diagnose the issue. Background - About 700 miles ago the truck was throwing a P2016 code. I installed a filter / new lift pump from NAPA, and a new VP44 from Pacific Fuel Injection in Portland. I also replaced the crank position sensor while I was there. The installation went well, and the truck drove with renewed strength; even towing a 10k RV trailer for over 350 miles. Here is what I know now: There are no engine codes throwing The V…