2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok, finally got my truck back from the shop after my leaking fuel return line was replaced. Today I was out doing some errands and I noticed occasionally when I put it in drive it would hesitate to engage and just Rev up. I would have to either wait or try shifting to park and back and finally it would go into gear. Then it upgraded it's ability to make me want to drive it into the nearest tree by acting like it would lose all power at the trans like it had no go at all. Then out of the blue it would start acting like it should again. I don't think the clutches are bad cause when it works it works, but for the life of me I'm just scratching my head again. …

Flushing the Coolant System Draining Coolant On a cool engine (less than 140*F) remove the radiator cap. Now at the bottom of the radiator, there is a drain valve on the radiator. The drain turns 1/2 turn then pulls outward slightly then continues to turn to drain. To drain the overflow bottom it just easier to remove the hose from the radiator neck and then pull the overflow bottle upwards from the fan shroud. Flushing Cooling System Flushing the cooling system you'll need to remove the thermostat. There are three 8mm head bolts holding the cover in place. Once the cover is removed you can lift the thermostat out. Now replace the thermostat cover and the…

CCD (Chrysler Collision Detection) Data Bus Description The Chrysler Collision Detection (also referred to as CCD or C2D ) data bus system is a multiplex system used for vehicle communications on many Chrysler Corporation vehicles. Within the context of the CCD system, the term “collision“ refers to the system’s ability to avoid collisions of the electronic data that enters the data bus from various electronic control modules at approximately the same time. Multiplexing is a system that enables the transmission of several messages over a single channel or circuit. Many Chrysler vehicles use this principle for communication between the various microprocessor based …

hello everyone this is my first post lots of great info here! i have read thru much of the site but can't figure this truck out i have an 02 6 speed with codes p0237 and p0112 i have gone thru the wiring replaced the map twice first new one was bad out of the box. not funky readings on anything i have done all the testing procedures and can't find anything off. i clear the codes and they instantly come back as soon as i start the truck i completely removed my edge box and truck ran worse extremely doggy with it on the truck at highest setting the truck is still a dog but driveable i cleaned all grounds tried an apps reset with no luck checked and triple checked all connec…

First time poster long time listener. Last night I had a buddy flash my 2002 ram 3500 6speed 4x4 with his smarty to enable the high idle. The truck hasn't ran since last night, so this morning I tried what MoparMan said with the 100k ohm resistor and the intake air temp and the idle should ramp up within upto 5 minutes to make sure the feature is enabled. I sat and didn't touch anything and waited for it to do its magic. After 10 minutes of waiting it hasn't done anything. Since a few days ago the wait to start light works before starting but both heating elements wont run simultaneously based of watching the volt meter. When I hooked up the resistor the wait to start lig…

I have been diagnosing my Camshaft sensor issue after installing a new ECU in my 1999 5sp Manual 2500. I have been going through the article: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/312-p0341-camshaft-position-cmp-sensor-signal I am using the pin-out from the FSM to locate the wire positions in the ECU connector and the sensor connector. There are numbers on the ECU connector for reference. I have found the conducting wire which actually goes to the Ecu connector in spot 9 instead of spot 17 as specified in the pin-out. There is full continuity between the Pin C in the cam sensor connector and pin 9 in the Ecu…

Since I've been a big pusher of the ScanGauge II I'm now moving away from them. Being I picked up a Android Tablet for working on the web site I figured I would now pick up a OBDLink LX Bluetooth for diagnostics and also enhanced data. Like SmartyTouch has enhanced data like fuel temp and other things like Quadzilla and Edge does too. So if a person wants this information your stuck buying a expensive product. Now I'm working to get this data for the Common Joe. Here is what I've got... http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/ Now here is the documents I've found for this project. saeJ1979_2006-08-25Ballot.pdf ISB_TROUBLESHOOTING_VOL_2.pdf 54262388-Cummins-Isb-Ch…

All this talk about bad alternators makes me nervous about jumping other vehicles. Is there a SAFE way to do it?

OK... So I have some down time for the Christmas season (intentionally scheduled). My plans are to go ahead with a twin turbo setup. The setup that I'm currently running is 100hp BD injectors (I'm not 100% sold on keeping these...I may go with 125's or 150's), Smarty S-03, FASS DDRP (no fuel pressure problems currently, but I plan on upgrading to a larger FASS), and I plan on, most likely, stacking an Edge with the new CTS2 with what I already have. So my question for those who have gone before me is this: Which bottom turbo should I go with? I plan on using the HX35 that I currently have as the top turbo. I want a fairly quick spooling setup, and I use my truck most…

Does anyone have the Napa New Manufactured (not Rebuilt) starter motor, that is made in China? Maybe the rebuilts are china too , I dont know. Maybe my original was china too ... Anyone know? Checked a couple parts stores for reference and they said what they sell is china made too

Having cold start issues not that it's taking longer to start but it pops off to the normal 800 rpms but then a split second later it drops to 500 or so and sounds like it might die. Then come back up and never does it again just when it sits over night. if I plug it in it doesn't have this it starts just fine When I get to 190 and shut the truck off and restart the truck it's fine. The only this different I have different if instead of the puff of black Smoke it is more of a gray. The only code I have is po602 and the could be from the superchip I have. I haven't looked into it to much because I really have no idea where to start. Would like to figur…

DTC P1693: DTC DETECTED IN COMPANION MODULE Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, clear DTCs from PCM. Using scan tool, check for stored DTCs in ECM. Perform appropriate test procedure for stored DTCs in ECM. Perform TEST VER-2A . Mopar's Note's: This error code cannot exist by itself and will have other error codes present in the ECM and/or PCM you'll most likely require an OBDII scan tool to get the codes. P1693 is nothing more than a flag that is pointing to the other module stating there are errors. If the PCM has the P1693 code this only means that the error codes are on the ECM. Visa-Vera as well. If the ECM reports the …

DTC P0234: TURBO BOOST LIMIT EXCEEDED Monitor & Set Conditions Turbo boost limit is monitored when the ignition is on. DTC may be stored if Engine Control Module (ECM) senses engine speed is greater than 2200 RPM with no intake air pressure sensor out of range DTCs present. Possible Causes Mechanical Wastegate Failure Wastegate Stuck Testing 1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DRBIII(R) scan tool, check for DTCs. If DTC Good Trip Counter is not equal to zero for P0234, go to next step. If DTC Good Trip Counter is equal to zero for P0234, replace wastegate. It may be necessary to replace turbocharger and…

Truck started to start real hard yesterday and by the time I've done all my Christmas running it now has a good size leak up near the injector pump. If i let it run for about 5 minutes it has a pretty good size spot on the ground. I can't really see any wet fuel lines but it's definitely dropping down on the front diff. Could my injector pump itself be leaking? It does have an airdog pump on it but like I said I don't see any fuel on the lines. Got any suggestions? 98.5 24v if that helps any.

Hi all, While changing my oil today I checked up on my turbo health. It has had a slight internal oil leak since I got it as you can see. So I decided to check for play in the shaft and it has a little bit. Nothing major, no metal shavings in there, but it has some play. How long can I keep running this thing? Truck is mainly just a DD right now. Also can it be rebuilt or does it have to be replaced? Can anyone recommend a rebuild kit or good a replacement turbo? I don't plan to make crazy power so I don't necessarily want to upgrade unless someone has a really compelling reason. It is for the truck in my sig. I am also curious about this. …

Hey fellas, I'm just wondering if this is normal or if I have a sticky injector or something. It only smokes on cold starts when it is not plugged in. It goes away after a couple minutes once it warms up a it. When it's plugged in it just does its normal puff of black then no smoke and it does the same when it's a hot start or when it's above zero outside. I've also noticed that the fuel line on number 6 where it goes into the head looks damp with fuel. The fitting is tight which leads me to believe the connector tube o-ring is going/gone and if that could be the cause of the smoke. The smoke does not smell like oil, more like burn your eyes rich fuel. …

So latley when the temps get below 5 to -5 below, my fuel pressure is showing about 2 to sometimes 4 psi greater. It normally idles at 18 psi. now its at 20 when I first start it up and has went to 22 once. This morning I left in hurry at 6 a.m, temp at negative 6. I only let truck warm up for 10 minutes or so. temp not even registering on gauge yet. I figured Id just take it easy going down road till it started climbing. I got about 4 miles and temp was lucky to see 160 and fuel pressure was showing 22 psi. then it started dropping all the way below 10 psi. so I stopped to try to build more heat.

Alright guys I've got a vibration somewhere that I can't seem to find. It comes on at about 67mph and goes through 71. then fades up until 75 where it gets worse again. Above 80 it starts to fade. Things I've done: All new U joints, tires balanced, checked driveshaft and all weights are still there, and the rear pinion is tight. Any idea where I can look to find it??

So prey do tell how one goes about relocating the battery.

Hello y'all I have a 99 5.9l 2wd 5spd man and the crank position sensor code is being thrown. I recently replaced this with an OEM part and after a few months the code is coming back. From what I understand this issue can be caused by a loose tone ring. However, I cannot find out the exact placement despite searching multiple times and places. Is the tone ring in the block and do I have to drop the oil pan to check and tighten it? The only other thing I am finding may be an issue is the ECM itself, if that is the case I will get rid of the truck at this point. Thank you for your assistance and any insight you may have. Ed