2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok cooler weather here and after truck sits for 2 or more days I get a P0122 DTC 3-5 seconds after start. the code is low volt at APPS. I can clear code and it will stay away until the grid heaters cycle after start. I had batteries load tested atl. is good. The batts are 5 years old. All connections are clean and tight. If started and heaters don't cycle then no code.

Have an 01 5 speed , super chips, fass 150 running 15ish psi, 7x10s. Lately it's been running like crap. Smoking like a freight train through all the gears. If I ease into it into 3rd and 4th shifting about 2200rpm it just lays a cloud, same between 55 and 75 in 5th. Never done this before. No boost gauge or egt gauge so I can't tell if there is any change there. I've changed all my filters in the last 800 miles. Turbo has no play and my boots all seem good. My fuel mileage dropped from about 18 to 19, down to around 14 or 15, hand calculated. Any ideas? I've got smaller injectors on the way just because. But I'm not 100% convinced that's the issue.

I've have a 1999 Cummins with 111k and have owned for almost 8 months and temperatures are starting to go down some here in north Texas and I new to owning a diesel I have down all the main things recommended for the 24v. I drive my truck as a daily driver and gave some fun in it and now with the temps dropping I have heard its normal if truck white smokes little to none in the morning when first started for about 1 min and clears up. Truck to seems to run fine and today when setting at Idle I noticed if I normally give it some gas while sitting parked a little smog of black smoke comes out but today it seemed to be white but it's only when I give it some gas while sitti…

2nd gen 24 valve going into a 1967 jeep truck need help with wiring i have the 2000 dodge donner truck it come out of i am just trying to figure out the best way to wire it up

WWwwwwooorrrrrRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrzzzzzZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzz! So, last winter, I got this weird buzz from my block heater, and a very high current draw to the heater. Popped a CB in the house. And, like any true American would do, I reset the breaker and plugged that puppy back in! I haven't used it since though. I Ohmed the plug, and couldn't find any leaks and summer was coming so I didn't worry about it. I was thinking of replacing the thing soon. Has anybody had this issue?

I've travelled a total of 255k miles now and been keeping up on my coolant flushing. This batch was over extended and shows it in the bucket the color was starting to shift just wee bit. As for the radiator and block still going strong and very clean! Still using universal yellow coolant and doing just fine. Don't need any fancy orange HOAT. Lookie... No scale build up!!! 255k miles and like a factory fresh radiator. Block is even clean yet and just a surface rust like back from my previous picture shoot.

So I finally got around to trying to fix the 4wd engage in my truck. For the past couple years I just had to pull it out and drain the vacuum actuator to get it going again, but this time the rod that slides the coupler over is bent. I figure, no big deal, I will run over to oreilly's and get a new one. I got there only to get the shock that they wanted $90 for the cheapo chinese one. A quick look online shows a couple for 60-70, but still. So question is do I bite the bullet and just replace the actuator or do I po the posi lock method for $159 ish? I think jegs has one for 109 right now. Anyone been here and done that? Nick

02 3500 2WD 6speed dually 214,000 miles This is kinda hard to describe but I'll try Over the last few months, started to notice while driving down the road at highway speeds - most notably above 60 mph, whenever I hit a slight (or any sort of) bump in the road - as the suspension bounces down - I hear a whining gear-ish grinding sound. It only happens on the downward bounce. Points to ponder - - Truck has a service body installed. it's not super heavy but the helper springs are just touching. I also have firestone air springs installed - but I don't use them to "hold" weight or lift it up etc. I usually keep the pressure low for added stability - 10 …

19psi while running yesterday, around 10 cranking, plenty of fuel coming out when I loosen the return banjo. Nothing more than a slight trickle out the back/at the injectors while cranking. Tries to start on ether (grid delete, sprayed through the boost bolt) but since there's no fuel it's unsustainable. First VP went out at ~130K while towing. I replaced it with one from a truck at a friend's shop that he had owned since new but had a cracked 53 block, and I've been running on it ever since. Last night, after driving all day, I went to Daytona to bring an engine crane to a racer friend who's running the SCCA Nationals, and shut it off so we could hang out for a bi…

Ok. I'm new here and have an issue I've been stumped on for 2 months. I bought a 99 24 valve that was a 5 spd truck, it came with all the automatic stuff from another 99. I have everything installed and all is good except the PCM. The PCM is the 56040199 which is verified a 99 automatic PCM, however when starting the truck, it acts like a 3rd gen with a transponder key. It starts, runs for 3 secs and dies.... It did that 3 times and now a no start and I know 2nd gens didn't have a transponder key. It has full communication with the obd2 connector but no CEL's and now a no start. I "borrowed" the PCM out of my 00 which starts, runs and drives the truck but I have no commu…

I believe I am having issues with my 6 speed manual... i have a good size rear main seal leak... 6 speed manual... lately i've noticed.. my fuel milage slipping... but it gets better after about 2 or 3 hours of hauling a medium load.... i don't get it...ill be towing a trailer and albeit i know 6s isn't a pulling gear after about 1900 rmps it will pull okay when you ask it too... but not the first 2 or 3 hours of my voyage... anyhow... i've had a few back yard guys look at my truck and they are all suggesting... im getting oil from my rear main seal to my clutch??? Is that even possible? Truck has been a hwy truck since 50000 km where i bought used ... back then it had a…

wondering if anybody has had this problem. just bought an 01 6 spd 24v good shape but was told it needed an injector pump or an ecm. 1689 was only code at sellers house but ran and drove fine so i thought maybe the guy didnt know what he was talkin about.. ok so paid him , drove it home with engine light on.. no problems..got home, erased code still ran fine..a couple days later 1st start up engine light came on, rpms shot up to around 2k for a couple secs then came down to 900 rpms ,,, idles fine but throttle cuts out at about 1500 rpms..havent checked fuel pressure yet at pump but it has a holley pump on frame rail so im hopin its good ..so far i have went through the 1…

I've had my truck just about a year now and I've only seen it up to operating temp twice, normally it runs 160 to 165. During the winter months I made a cold weather front from a sheet of aluminum that blocked 95% of the radiator and it still only ran 160. Back in May I towed maybe 4500 pounds 750 miles or so round trip average speed was 70 to 75mph and it still only ran 160. About 3 weeks ago I pulled the radiator and power washed all the oil and dirt out of it and installed a new 190 thermostat. I noticed it ran slightly warmer about 170 but its been back around 160 ever since. In less than a week I'm taking a trip out west of the Rockies and would like to see it run …

Hi, I was wondering whats the best way to bleed the power steering system I had to drain it after removing the pump to fix a leaky vacuum pump. I got the truck steering after reving the engine to about 1500 rpm's but the brake are very very soft and the abs and parking lights also came on during the process... Thanks

working on a 2001.5 dodge diesel quad cab 4x4 . I want to replace the convertor , is there enough room to slide the tranny back and swap out the convertor , or is t going to have to be dropped to the ground ? If I do this I'm working outside under a tarp and I was hoping to just sling the tranny to the frame and pull it backwards .

Hello everyone. I'm on my third APPS in less than a year in my 2000 2500. Once replaced, code 0122 is gone, but I then get 1693. The APPS have lasted anywhere from three months, to three days, to even six hours. Then, the surging at around 50-55mph(after OD kicks in, if I'm not gettin on it)starts again. It will even do it with no code 0122 or check engine light. I have zero experience in how ECM and PCM codes work. If the 1693 isn't cleared after replacement, will it still think there is a problem, and could that be causing this screwy, vicious circle?

Ok I changed my injectors a few years back thinking they were causing my surging problem when towing. I think it ended up being alternator with excessive ac noise. The injectors I had were 8 holes and said bosh on them, I didn't know any better thinking they were stock I got a set from DAP that are 60hp thinking I'll be gaining some hp and mpg, And actually lost hp and mpg. And when talking to DAP they said that my injectors were not factory and couldn't use them as core so it costed me another $150, and I asked for my old injectors back and instead of my old ones they sent me another set of theirs that were new and said 75hp on the bag. So I guess I got another set of in…

I know this is a dumb question, on an 02 cummins 5 speed, everything under the hood is stock except for the lift-pump, which is a fass lift-pump, and reading and knowing fuel pressure is everything, how would a big line kit help?

My abs and brake light are one I am thinking a have a front sensor out. I wanted to make sure there wasn't a wire broken and I can't for the life of me even find them and I just missing them or does the wheel have to come off

After sitting on my shop shelf of over 5 years, I think it is FAR past time to install the Mag Hytec diff covers I bought. I went out to the garage shop and checked.......only 3 quarts of Amsoil 75W-90 left. I had some Walmart Supertech 75W-90 and 75W-140 but only 2 or 3 bottles of each. Called my local petroleum dealer and asked them if they had any and they told me they have Conoco Phillips 75W-90 and 80W-140 synthetic. http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheettext.aspx?matguid=e316b9e0fb4b46a5839e141543882fdf http://www.phillips66lubricants.com/brands-products/Single.aspx?pid=372 I am leaning towards the 80W-140. I can get both the 75W-90 or the 80W-1…