2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Sorry guys, I know it's been like a broken record, but now that some time gone by has anybody got comments on using newer stuff with less zinc and phosphor on older engines. I've been running amsoil (1400 ppm zink) for few years now and don't have any problems with it other than price and the way you got to get it if you want a half a.. deal on it. Plus I don't put enough miles on it a year to justify it anymore. Called Cummins and they use Valvoline Premium Blue in just about anything and it replaces all of the older stuff. Guy said it had 1200 ppm of zinc in it and was plenty for flat tappets, price at cummins was $14.50 a gallon. Then I called Delo and talked with thei…

Hi all, Doing a service on my 47RE Fluid, Filter, band adjustment. Since I have the pan down, would like to put in my TransGo shift kit. Any how to's on how to remove the 47RE? I found them for the 48 & 46 but would like a 47 specific so I don't mess it up. Once I have it down, TransGo did send a detailed instruction. But since I'm an Auto newb, you guys are my backup! Thanks, Dave

Guys, I have a friend who has intrusted in me to fix his truck. It is a 2001 CTD. This truck use to start when you turned the key right away, hardly would crank over a half an engine revolution and start. Now it cranks two or three complete revolutions before it starts, usually after a hot restart. He lost the factory lift pump years ago and had the dealer install an intank lift pump. He had the injector pump fail shortly after that pump was replaced. I'm wondering what the lift pump pressure should be when the key is turn to run but engine not started. I have none at this time but it starts and has presure of about 7 to 8 psi when running. Should there be initi…

When you guys get shiny new performance parts or even replacement parts do you inspect them before installing them? I've always made it habit to give the part a quick once over before installing, more so with parts from the auto parts stores than expensive performance parts. Anyway I had ordered a BD flex plate for my truck and it showed up today. Not 10 seconds out of the box I noticed that a few of the tack welds that hold the starter ring gear on had appeared to be cracked. From arms length you'd have a hard time noticing it, but I work in a weld/fab shop so naturally I see these things daily. I put a call in to BD and explained to them that I had found what appeared t…

Ok so I put a new vp44 injection pump on the truck thinking that was the problem. But it wasn't I turned the truck over and over and wouldnt crank. I unplugged the rear plug on the pump and straight wired the pump and cranked right up. Then I checked the plug pin # 6 and 7 gets 12 volts on the on position and 10 on the starting position. Pin # 5 doesn't have any voltage so it's not that. Anyone know what or why the electronics won't work and allow the truck to crank? Thanks.

Can anyone send a pic of the wiring on the back of a gauge pod high idle switch? Thanks.

I installed the timbo sensor a little over a month ago and it seemed to have worked fine for about a month then the bucking and dead pedal started again this time not as bad but still could tell it was the same problem. So I cleaned all battery cables then reset it and it worked for about another week and now is doing it again. Could the sensor I got be bad? What am I doing wrong?

I just bought a 2001 2500 4x4 6 speed 100k miles first thing I did was put on a Raptor drfp 19 idle 16 wot I was driving down the highway at 70 and it started to surged and had really bad dead pedal so I got home and ran the codes and got po216 not sure where to go with that

So guys I havent been on here in long time. Did some searching through the forums for some info about the quickest way to replace that rear crank seal. I can see from the Service manual there are two ways of doing it, one is to remove the transmission (in my case a nv5600 and transfer case) all the way down to the bell housing and do it from there. The second method is to remove the bell housing completely (8 bolts) and then pull the crank shaft oil retainer. Im thinking I need to do the second method since Im in need of a new pan gasket as well. Little extra time involved since I would have to remove the starter and misc parts, but I think it would be worth it since…

I am going to be cleaning my injectors soon. Should I replace the o rings and brass washers on the injectors when I am in there?

I need to switch my gear oil from 75w-140 to 75w-90 and Peak has some cheap synthetic gear oil. Made in USA, cheaper than Valvoline and Mobile1. The reason for the switch is my rear end chatters on turns when cold and once warmed up, it's just fine. I'm thinking a thinner gear oil could help this situation. Limited slip rear, yes I used Mopar friction modifier.

Hello all, I just back on here. It's been a while. Looked in my inbox and had a non active message. Sorry Mike! Been busy as all hell. Especially finally getting a break over here on the East coast during Hurricane Joaquin. Have been in flight for storm rescue. US Coast Guard SARS. Ok here is goes, The truck has been acting up some. Truck will start and run fine then out of the blue will not want to start. But after a 15-20 min wait it will start.The tach will not move. I replaced the Crankshaft postition sensor a year or so ago. Funny thing is it comes and it goes. It will not do it for months and will give me no problems. Thanks, John

I will be installing my edge comp tonight and then next week it is time to go Elk Hunting. I've pulled my trailer plenty of times with my truck but this will be the first time with the comp installed. Is there any wisdom that you all have learned that you would like to pass along. I have read through the literature that came with the comp, but what setting do you prefer? I am not looking for smoke and squealing tires, but I would like the power when towing an mileage when not towing. any advice would be great. Thanks,

Is it time for a new turbo? I have less than a 1 to 2 mm of play side to side. No play in and out. New noise sounds like a bad belt tentisioner. This happens when developing boost or decreasing boost. The sound is coming from where the turbo is located. It is building boost and running fine. It feels like the boost is coming on slower than normal but that could be in my mind.

Anybody running a set of Toyos? Mine are about a year old and got maybe 4k on them. Today I noticed a crak between lugs. Bought them with good reviews and made in USA and now this. Just got a set of these last week for my dad and they say made in Japan so not sure what's going on.

Can I swap a HO vp with my SO vp for testing purposes or is it going to make mine run goofy with the HO in it?

I'm hoping someone knows about this. Can a map sensor affect the output of the liftpump? I think the stock liftpump has a hi and low setting. Will a map sensor giving bad reading defuel the vp? Or is it working in reverse and sensing boost and then adding fuel?

I recently took my truck/5th wheel on a trip to the U.P. of MI. On the first day out, a couple hrs into the drive, I glanced down at my gauges and noticed the voltmeter hanging low in the 12 volt area. At the time I was running with my headlights on which included all the running lights on the 5ver. First thing I did was turn off the lights - voltage came up slightly. About that time my better half informed me she was due for a pit stop so I pulled over on an exit ramp & let her into the trailer. While she was doing that I had a look under the hood. All looked fine but I detected a slight noise coming from the alternator that was unfamiliar; it did not seem to change …

Ok, I have an 2001 4x4 2500 eclb 192k power lok. BOM tag is gone and it has had a diff bearing change, one side is koyo other it timken. My rear end is stamped D702U. First off what is the 2U and I pulled it apart I have a pinion bearing going and found out that the spider gears were looking bad and the clutches for the lsd are toast. When I pulled the diff there was no shims on either side. does that sound correct at all?

Ok - I sure seem to be fining weird stuff lately. Rang around for A spicer 1480 ujoint today ...... couldnt get one. Settled for an Advanced Auto Part #295 Greaseable Moog Ujoint (20054BF). Installed fine. When i finish buttoning her up ....... I notice 2 things. 1) The grease nipple wont go all the way in ........ 2) There is a small amount of play ...... say 1mm ..... rather than being pure tight on the end caps with teh straps. The cclips appear tight. Thinking its probably they need grease - load up the grease gun - but it doesnt seem to want to go in ...... spills out everywhere. Not sure if this is due to nipple not fully seated ....... but wouldnt…