2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey guys my 2001 dually with an automatic is giving me fits. The transmission does not slip it just shifts back and forth when driving at slow speeds. OD off and it still does it. Any ideas? is there a sensor or chip that i can replace or change to stop this? thanks, Jt:banghead:

I recently got my much needed gauges and hooked up fuel pressure first to check things out. When i bumped the starter for the 25 second run, it jumped to 24 and slowly increased all the way up to 26! Does this sound like a return line restriction? I have an adjustable overflow valve that is preset at 14 psi. What could be going on here? I think this is the cause of my rough running truck...

Hey guys, I've been looking for these wheels, hard to find. 7 slot holes, and slightly different offset from the pre-2000 2nd gens. I occasionally come across them on craigslist & ebay etc, but they are few and far between since they were only made for the 2000 - 2002 model year 3500 duallys. But alas I do find them! My question has to do with the factory coating. Does anyone know if the original factory coating for these 2000-2002 wheels was paint? or powder coat? Thanks!

hello everone, I have an 01 5.9 HO TD with 6 speed manual. today me and the kid were out picking up a welding machine on a small trailer and coming up to a stop sign, go to push in clutch and felt it go limp right to the board. what now ? I'm think,n. sitt,n there i started pumping and after a couple it came back to normal. had about 20 miles left to go. it did it again intermittently a few times but not consistantly. I would greatly appreiciate any and all feed back. THX

Introduction I've been adding 2 cycle oil to my diesel fuel for the last about 20,000+ miles. So far I've found out that it has improved a few things like engine noise is reduced, fuel mileage increased slightly, and knowing the the fuel system is being lubricated is always a plus! I've been adding a quart every time I fill up with fuel. So if I pump 20-25 gallons I'll add a quart of 2 cycle oil. It makes it roughly 80:1 to 120:1 ratio of fuel to 2 cycle oil. This is relatively low ratio and with not cause any harm engine as far as I known. There is another reason why I'm adding 2 cycle oil to my fuel. It because of EPA changing the sulfur levels in the diesel…

I have read that it is very easy to replace the rotors on our trucks. The rotor is suppose to just slide on. Mine doesn't, it is held on by the nut and the stud assembly. Any one have any idea as to what the set up is for my rig? Is this from a 1 ton?

Had the truck over in St. Louis today. While driving around, I discovered that I was having a problem shifting, especially when stopped. I had to put the truck into neutral to stop, shut off the engine to put it into second, start the engine, then go. Upshifts were not much of a problem. Downshifts were shaky, as sometimes they were ok, other times it would not downshift. I ordered new clutch master and slave cylinders from Autozone. O'Reilly's couldn't get them for 5-7 days. No NAPA here. Autozone had the slave in stock, the master cylinder will be here tomorrow. Any suggestions/recommendations? Thanks.

Guys I've got a small leak on #6 injector line area. It's a small trickle of fuel nothing spraying or pouring out just a steady drip. Has anyone experienced this on their truck and what fixed it? I had the injectors replaced around January and no leaks at the time at all. What are the chances that the fuel line ferrel is cracked and spraying high pressure fuel?

Okay so my truck has done this a few times. I hit the key and all I get is a click. Just one "click" and no start. It did it the other day and I was able to get it to jump start it with my girl's car. I tested the batteries and they test out fine. I decided to drop the starter and see if I could tell anything but I don't know really what to look for. I replaced the plunger and contacts a while back (maybe a year) and they don't look bad from what I can tell. What I'm looking for is ideas please!

I am having some troubles since rebuilding my engine and putting it back together. I'm not sure if the problem is caused by the lift pump, just not being primed, or the ECM. I put a new ECM in my truck do to the fact that my old one had a faulty wait to start light and thought maybe it was messing with the lift pump. I also tried priming it by bumping the starter and my pump does not run for the 20 or so seconds it's supposed to, and doesn't always run at all? It will crank but haven't got it to fire or start. Could this be from the lift pump being junk? The ECM not being flashed for my truck? Or just simply isn't primed yet? Any help is appreciated, thanks!

update: I am not longer providing any support beyond what is found in this Article. I don't have the time to work with this stuff anymore., but thankfully Quadzilla is up and running again, you can find them at www.quadzillapower.com Hope This helped you guys out Nick Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 Tuners: Adrenaline standard The Quadzilla Adrenali…

Hey Gang... I've got a member here that is looking for information on ECM shops/rebuilders that could possibly test and repair a ECM. I'm sure there was a few threads out here but I'm looking for currently good shops... Yeah I know there is a few of "Bad" shops too. Lets here it guys... Oh... If you want you can post you information to... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2897-Help-911-Diesel-Down?p=21913#post21913

I’m finally getting around to installing a FASS Titanium unit (that has been on a shelf for quite a few months) on my 2001 manual transmission 4x4. This pickup still has block mounted lift pump. I’ve disconnected electrical plug from the factory lift pump . Where should I put the fuel line from new pump? Inlet of preexisting block mounted filter or inlet side of injection pump. FASS instructions say directly to injection pump. I had some previous advice that said to connect it to inlet side of filter housing. What are the advantages and or disadvantages of either? TIA . Kevin

Hi all, Started noticing a problem with my truck when it shifts into overdrive. Driving down the road, truck shifts through the gears normal kicks into overdrive and then starts acting differently. It will cruise fine under light throttle... as soon as I give it throttle, it responds very sluggishly, starts throwing consistent black smoke, the EGT's will jump up, and the truck is vibrating. It will continue to do this until it really gets up and going, or if I let off the throttle. It really is a pain because the truck drives in overdrive a lot on the 35-50mph roads around here. This has just started happening and seems to…

I have an 01 24valve after having the truck sit up for a little more then a year for major upgrades and front end repairs. I filled the tank for the first time and changed both fuel filters on my fast flow setup. At idle the truck runs perfect once a load is put on the engine it starts to show signs of a miss fire. Could the be because of a clogged fule filter? If so, i used the correct size socket on factory filter housing to check and replace if need fuel filter but the socket continues to round off. Is there a trick to remove the filter housing top without permanent damage? Also no codes shown on snap-on scan tool.

Back in July I lost ECM output for my lift pump. I tested for AC noise at that time and had no issue so I corrected and added a fused power source and now it runs off a switch. BTW alternator is believed to have the same milage as the chassis which is 332,732 Two weeks ago to transmission started having issues with torque converter clutch lock up it was hunting a lot. I threw a scanner on it and started collecting live data. I find out my accelerator pedal position sensor will not register over 80% at wide open throttle. At this point I was very confused so I started testing more things including A/C noise again and the alternator is still fine my batteries…

Hi guys, I'm experiencing a woo-woo-woo noise. It seems it's coming only while the engine is under load, or it gets louder, with the more load. So..if I'm driving on the highway, and I go up a hill, it gets louder when the engine works harder. If I let off, it goes away instantly. It sounds like something is off balance to me, I'm just not sure what could be making the noise, only while the engine is under load. I pulled the front drive shaft. The wheel balancing weights are still on tires. Tires, brakes, rotors, hubs new in the last 15k or less..and this is a new development. Any ideas to look at? Here's a video..you can hear it pretty clear at …

Hey guys, was searching around on the internet trying to see if anyone else was having the same issue I am but cant seem to find anyone with the same problem, and anyone I have talked to has no idea at all. I wish I could remember what I did when it all started, what happens is it has a little lope but its not constant, it will idle fine for a second then have a lope in the idle for a second and just keep doing that back and forth. The headlights and dash lights will flicker at the same pace as the lope. I have put an external voltage regulator, a raptor factory replacement lift pump, and a quadzilla adrenaline the one awnser I did get from a guy was that the quadzilla i…

I was driving the truck and it just died. I checked the fuel pressure by bumping the starter and have about 12 psi. As soon as I turn the key the pressure goes down to 3 -5 psi and bounces. I have a raptor 100 pump on the truck. I jumped the relay for the pump and it constantly pumps at about 12 psi while trying to start the truck. I do not believe that the pump is bad due to it working just fine while jumping the relay. I cracked an injector line and no fuel comes out when trying to start while jumping the pump power. Any idea what would cause the no start and the raptor to act like that when starting it connected to the relay.

I have someone on the internet wanting to sell me a complete NV 5 speed gearbox out of a 1999 3500.I do not need (at this time) an extra gearbox but what he does have is a Gear Vendors overdrive attached to the rear end of the gearbox. Have been looking at a GV overdrive for a while now and simply cannot afford the $3000 price. EDIT This $3000 is for a new GV overdrive unit, not the used transmission!Any comments on if it would be worth looking at a 5 speed tranny even if it did have the GV overdrive with it? Personally I like the 6 speed box but would really love another high gear to lower my RPM's on the highway. If I did this could either swap the 6 for the 5 speed wit…