2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have read that it is very easy to replace the rotors on our trucks. The rotor is suppose to just slide on. Mine doesn't, it is held on by the nut and the stud assembly. Any one have any idea as to what the set up is for my rig? Is this from a 1 ton?

I noticed my EGT gauge was pretty whacky today. It was bouncing up and down, and when I floored it it actually decreased in temp. As soon as I started to back off it would increase. Just kinda all over the scale. I am thinking the thermo couple is going bad. Anyone had this happen before?

Hello all. I have just had an oil analysis done. I was hoping one of you-all could have a look and explain it to me. What all the numbers mean? What are the high and low limits of them?[ATTACH]4195[/ATTACH]Thanks again. The mileage is in KM eh!!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some info I've saved over time from TDR Timing the VP44 Fuel Injection Pump

I know alot of folks have temp fluctuation but I think it usually swings low instead of high. I had this trouble a few months ago and fixed it with a new water pump but its back again. I just had the radiator cleaned and rodded but it hardly had anything in it. Its got another new water pump and I have ran two different radiator caps. I have 3 different t-stats and they all fluctuate the same, two are 190 from napa and one is a cummins 180. I generally see swings from 190-203 or so, usually cruising it stays around 190-194 but will jump up to 197-199 for a second then back down. That doesent bother me as im reading those temps from the ultra-gauge and I think those are fi…

Alright, working on the whole "heater core" project and I had to remove some other misc. parts I deemed for removal to get to the relevant parts. One of them being the turbo downpipe to the intercooler. Upon inspection, I found very dark oil residue. It has a sheen to it. Its not heavy, but it covers the inside so much that its black.I'm not sure if this means my turbo is shot, or if the K&N filter that used to be in it was the culprit. I can only think of cleaning the downpipe and driving it for a while and then take a look at it again to see if there is a presence of oil or not to figure out whether or not my turbo needs rebuilt.If I do need to rebuild it, where can…

So, we all know about the he351, s300, etc., for 'replacement/upgrade'.. But I have a friend here locally, that asked me if I'd like to buy his turbo. He was working on a project drift-car, but has not been able to move forward, and now needs a little cash for something.. He's got an Innovative Turbo Systems (ITS) GT72R-DBB (dual BB) Compressor Wheel: Aerospace aluminum material 72mm inducer Turbine Wheel: 713C inconel material 82mm exducer A/R Options: 1.10 T4 divided 4" V band, non-gated Whatcha think (JohnFAK, AH64, etc) and anyone else that would like to chime in…

Aright, I'm trying to diagnose if its my valve cover gasket thats leaking. It may even be an old leak, too. I have some oil staining if you would call it that, that is at the rear. It can only come from the valve cover as it is to high for anything else. I have torqued the cover down and then retorqued after so long. I will double check again to see if it is still indeed leaking.Although, I called O'reilly's, and they sell the gasket for $126! WHHAAATTT!That is out of this world! Where could I get one cheaper?

ok before i break this how does the crankcase vent {the big plastic piece not the hose] come off just twist it which way ? i want to extend the tube after i finish the injectors and adjust the valves also 8- 18 or 10- 20 on the valves?

Boost – Be advised that upon initial start up, you will not register a boost “number.” It takes engine load to make exhaust flow; thus intake boost pressure. You will find the boost pressure will parallel the position of your accelerator pedal. Typical 60 mph, half-throttle boost number is 8 – 10 psi.Rule of thumb: every psi of boost equals 10 horsepower (i.e. 10 psi means you’re using 100 horsepower to motor down the road). Full throttle equals full boost. ‘94 – ‘97 trucks have a maximum boost specification of 15 – 18 psi. The 215 hp, ‘96 – ‘98 trucks have a maximum boost specification of 21 – 23 psi. The ‘98 – ‘02, 24-valve engines have a maximum boost specificat…

Not quite sure what the problem is, but here's what happened. I had cruise set at 75 and everything was fine, tuck ran fine, good oil pressure, plenty of power, no warning lights, etc. All of the sudden there was a clicking sounding type of a knock, for lack of a better description and a lot of bluish smoke I think, it was dark but I could see smoke in the mirrors. It would increase as the RPM's did. I got off the turnpike and called a wrecker. Checked the oil it was full and no puddles or leaks. I had my OBD II scanner with me and it read P0234 with no check engine light. As far as I can tell I think the engine sounds fine but the knock/click is so loud it's difficult to…

Okay, so I gave it some more thought about how I could go about adding a needle valve for my gauge. Instead of going the route of "in-line", I figured, I will just put a valve in on one of the ports thats on the fuel filter canister. Problem is, it seems like it cannot be done? What I mean is, I went to Home Depot and the guy did not have any of the right fittings. :banghead:The fitting for the fuel pressure gauge is an 1/8" Iron pipe thread. He did not have any valves in this style. Nor was he able to get any of the fittings he had to work.Do regular hardware stores have the right kind of needle valve I need or is it special order? Also, he mentioned his valves were a fi…

Alright, so I'm gonna get my A/C evacuated so I can pull the dash and replace the heater core. The problem is, how do I disconnect the A/C lines that go to the evaporator? I thought there was a simple trick to do them and could avoid buying the line disconnect tools, but I do not remember what the trick was. Or is there a trick?

have 01 3500 i have no low end power in any gear cleaned out @ replaced fuel filter

So gents, i am in need of figuring out which clutch to purchase, mainly power wise. My dilemma is i only have a ballpark of the max my truck puts out but i dont want to be way over or way under and end up purchasing a clutch that is insufficient.I want to get a complete kit, clutch and flywheel as i think the original flywheel is garbage.All i have done is rv275's, bhaf, edge juice w/attitude. everything else stock and will stay that way. (truck has plenty of power.I rarely tow, rarely "get on it", dont pull nor race.I cant get an estimate on power as the current clutch slips with ease in setting 1 now, so im stuck.on the power rating they put on clutches, is that off the…

So have a small leak on the passengers side of the block up front near the oil filter and front of the block. That big funny shaped (almost rectangular thing) thats closer to the front of the block than the oil filter or the heater block. Passenger side. How hard to take off and replace gasket - etc ...... - - - Updated - - - Very front of the passanger side of the block (kinda rectangular running up and down) http://roadmasterengineworld.com/images/dodge%20cummins%20engine.jpg Oil filter might bolt onto it ..... haven't checked but close

Posted a couple days ago reference subject code. Did the key trick again this AM and the code still shows. However, my Scan Gauge and 2 Hand Held gauges did not pick it up. I'm the original owner (90k miles on truck) and have not any problems with codes before Had the not scanned for code in about three years. Had a transmission fluid change last week which I think included a T/C flush also. I have noticed my tranny temp in the 190 to 200 range since which is a bit higher than it was running before. If I'm not wrong it was running well below 170 towing. Have a 3k mile r/t set up to begin Monday so If I need to get something done any advice will be greatly appreciate…

Hi all. I haven't been on here in several months. Was rebuilding my motorcycle. Anyway, it appears that my power steering lines are leaking pretty bad, and looking for any advice on best way to change them out. I'm not sure yet which one is leaking as I need to clean it up and take a better look. Is there anything special I need to know? Thanks.

My new truck has a Karr security system in it. I think Karr is out of business, and I can't seem to find a manual and I don't really even know the model of the system, but I want it gone.Any bright Ideas guys? I can upload photos saturday or sunday.

What is the 'average' life-cycle for an injector to operate properly? I realize there are hundreds of variables to take into account, but "on average", is it 100k mi? 120k? 150k?I'm starting this, due to the fact that I'm chasing down an issue with my truck, and ramhunter9 (Dave) and I spoke about this yesterday, for about 30 minutes or so.My truck has 180,000 on it, as of last weekend. I've been experiencing some mildly odd fuel issues, especially in the past six months. As you can see in my signature, I'm basically stock, with few minor mods:Edge Juice w/ Attitude + HotUnlockBoost Elbow5" exhaustBHAFFP is around 13-14psi WOT, 17-19psi no-loadRundown:I bought this tr…