2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So my truck has always had an intermittent problem with throwing code p1291, especially when its wet out (rare these days in California). PO told me when I bought it that if I ever had the CEL come on it was almost certainly a loose post connection sleeve at the relay (skinny wire press on sleeve) working loose. Ive generally found that to be the case, but im getting tired of it happening and am wanting to fix it for good. Ive already tried to pinch them slightly for better connectivity with limited success. Any issue with clipping them off and replacing with ring terminals to screw down? Anyone know the size off hand?

Anyone using these Bluetooth devices on our trucks? http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WOQLh1iGN60 Seems like a good deal for ten bucks plus a 5 Dollar app. I was looking at a scan gauge, but this looks pretty interesting. Any thoughts?

i have the wonderful 53 block with 17 inch crack.. so i bought a 2002 bluebird bus for the engine its a 56 block.. my problem is we swapped the 2001 dodge cummins out and installed the 2002 industrial cummins from the bus, we installed all of the dodge injectors, the computer injection pump, vac pump, power steering pump, now the dodge didnt have a crank position sensor but the bus did, both have cam position sensors.. now we have it running runs pretty good, but tach only works for 2 or 3 seconds then zeros out, i get a code for cam position sensor have changed it with 1 from the dodge truck and does the same thing check wiring looks ok worked great with 53 block just a…

Howdy...first post but long time lurker. Sadly I am in a pinch and need some smarter minds than I (which don't take much). Not too long ago my WTS (wait to start) light quit working...I was new-ish to the truck at the time and now living in So Cal I thought it was an ambient temp thing and the truck did not need the warmers. After looking into it it seems either the bub is bad OR the ECU, right? So, I did a gauge check (via holding the odo button and turning key to on) the WTS light came on at the VERY beginning of the test but did NOT illuminate at the end when all the other bulbs were getting checked per the procedure. So that is confusing to me...some part of …

Since I have had my truck, the stock oil pressure gauge has not worked. The people before me installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the pillar but I want to put my fuel pressure gauge there. Is there any way to test the oil pressure sender? I just want to make sure thats whats wrong. The gauge in the dash just sits at 40 psi any time the key is on. I also have the code p0522. I believe that is for the oil pressure being out of range or something. Thanks!!! - - - Updated - - - I read through the p0522 code article already, I was just wondering if anyone had a similar problem with their oil sensor before. I am pretty sure its just the sending unit but I dont…

I have been running either 2 stroke or OptiLube in my rig. I have a 50 mile round trip work commute at highway speeds (65mph) and I almost always have some "diesel rattle", sometimes more noticeable than not. Yesterday I forgot to get some additive out of the garage so when I filled up, I had nothing to add to the tank so I pumped 30 gals of B20. I noticed within about 25 minutes, a huge decrease in engine noise. And again this morning on the way to work, it was so much quieter. I can't believe bio does a better job at lubrication/noise reduction than 2 stroke does. Has anyone else noticed this? Is long term bio use aok? Any advantage to bio and something like Optilube co…

Hello everyone, need a little help. Was wondering if anyone has used a used ECM in their truck if the original failed,i can purchase a ECM from a 99 3500 5spd 4x4(mine is a 99 2500 auto 4x4),but what i can gather from TSB 18-033-04 the ECM part# is the same for 981/2-99. I have CODE P1694 and my truck has a 10-15 sec delay till the Wait To Start light comes on and then i hear the lift pump prime.I imagine that i would have to have the ECM reflashed which i can get done. i can get it for a great price.

I have a 2000, with a pacbrake that I added a while back. Trans was just redone, and the VB should allow lockup in second. I want to add a lockup switch for towing and better exhaust braking. Anyone know how to wire this up? The wire you wood normally tap for lockup switch is one that the pacbrake has you cut and splice into their control box. I really want to make this happen, but am unable to get any good wiring instructions.

I got my tranny rebuilt about a month ago and the tc lockup has been acting up. It sometimes locks and sometimes it feels like it is partly locked:cry: I took it back to the tranny shop for a checkup and he's pretty puzzled by what it is doing. I did play around with a mystery switch and I'm wondering if there's any way that I could have messed something up. In the process of this I had the center plug on the powertrain module off to tap into the black/orange wire and I broke off the pin on the wire from the trans temp sensor. I kind of got it back together but could a bad connection on that circuit have caused a problem like I have? I'm sure hoping not cuz I want t…

Im in the process of adding some extra fuel filtration. Also want to get rid of the 6mm line off the filter bowl and upgrade it. could someone tell me the size of the fitting for the filter bowl and on the VP? Thanks

My truck is in the shop I was just going to have them replace the pinion seal but then it turned into a possible bad yoke bearing now they say they need to rebuild the entire rear diff which will cost 3388!!!! There is no way I can afford that. Has anyone done this themselves could I take on this project with just a basic home shop? Or does anyone have any advice? Anything is appreciated thanks!

Are there Tech articles on the PDC? If so I haven't found them. I seem to be having power/ground issues there (PDC) If I turn on headlamps the truck shuts down. Will restart if switch is off. Also have no heater blower at same time. Engine code is no ECM communication. Seems to either be a power interruption or most probably a ground issue? Any ideas on where to start. the bottom of the PDC is difficult to get to!

This started about a week ago. It'll hold first all the way to redline and won't shift unless I lift my foot off the gas, and until I get to about 30mph I have to be VERY gentle with the accelerator or it'll downshift. Once I'm into 2nd and past the kickdown threshold, it shifts normally 2-3 and 3-4. It also downshifts fine. I replaced the governor solenoid and sensor about 3 years ago with Mopar parts; I want to say it was the AE or AF revision? I'm thinking it's the problem. Temps are fine, and while the bands *do* need adjusted, the trans was gone through about 100k ago and it's always worked fine. So, 1.) Do you think it's a governor issue and2.) Is the GM/Delphi gove…

I think something is wrong with my Edge... This past weekend I took a trip up to Connecticut with the camper. Under normal acceleration and driving I don't notice a problem.. but when I'm up around 65 mph and I try to accelerate up a grade I can feel the truck sputter a bit. I turned off the Edge and the problem went away. I was running the Edge on 2/3 and my Smarty is set to 2. Is the Edge starting to fail? I haven't checked for codes yet...

First, I had the diode installed to the IAT sensor. Did this mod since it first came out. Had no problems with it until recently. The code just started the past couple of months. In the back of my mind I kept thinking it was related to the morning cold. Finally decided it was time to get rid of the engine code light from reappearing. Long story short, the wiring harness was in good shape. Figured the easiest way to see where the problem was to put it back to stock. Been fine since. Amazing that a 10 cent part can change everything!

Well we all know what this code means. I have been fiddling around under the hood a lot lately and I wonder if I bumped something that could cause the code? Truck still runs ok but seems like it got a bit louder as far as the typical knocking noise. Is they’re any other symptoms that show with this code? I honestly hope I have to do a vp because that could be cuasing a few small issues of been having for a while....

Just did a bunch of work on the truck getting ready for a drive.First thing put a "stealth" plate on the VP44. Its finished but the wire is not hooked to the Edge yet.Then did the final stages of the "big fuel line" mod to the truck. Ran the large line from the fuel filter housing to the VP44. Now when I put everything back together its throwing a "PO122" code. Drives fine, fuel pressure, throttle and so on is fine. Have tried to erase the code several times using the ScanGauge but guess its popping back up again.I am running out of time and need to take a 900 mile trip this weekend. As the truck is running fine, any reason why I cannot just drive it with the yellow engin…

So I want going to start putting my case back together today, and I thought I should check out the low roller clutch cam (race) pressed into the case. I noticed some discoloration on the it. Looks like heat, but also pretty localized to a small area. I put my hand in it and noticed it wiggled a little... Not good. So I pounded it out, and I can see it spun off its teeth. Now what? I've read about bolt-in replacements. I'm over 1000 lbft of torque. What are my options? I'm going to do some more research on this but I'd like to know if there's any first hand knowledge around here for this problem. Pictures below. Thanks in advance!

Thinking about installing a Boost Fooler with Boost Elbow on my 1998.5 24V Cummins. If I do this before I install the RV275 injectors will I notice any increase in power or fuel mileage?It's cold and very wet here now. When the weather warms and dries up I will do the KDP, RV275 injectors and valve adjustment with the Boost Fooler. What's your advise?Thank you, Kerley

If they are not on the Michal's list all ready Gillett Diesel Service Inc. 14812 South Heritagecrest Way Bluffdale, UT 84065 http://www.gillettdiesel.com/vp44injectionpump.aspx Exchange ONLY NO Bosch 815 test bench on site and Orange County Diesel, Inc. 17242 Gothard Street, A and B Huntington Beach, CA 92647 http://www.ocdiesel.com/ Exchange ONLY NO Bosch 815 test bench on site