2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I am not advertising but I had problems with my 47re in a 99 and did not have the money to rebuild after all the help from the guys here on this forum I found a man Robert from CASCADE TRANSMISSIONS from oregon I am in Texas and he walked me through it no problem and he sells parts and has plenty of videos on you tube if you need help contact him

I live near Source Automotive. They offer a valve body upgrade. The question I have is...are all valve bodies created equal? Just because they are close to me doesn't mean it the best on or even a good one. But the benefit is that they'd be installing it. So no finger pointing if something doesn't work as it should. I do have a transmission guy also that did my t/c and did a minor tear down of the transmission for inspection while it was out. He gave me an old valve body that I can use as a core. So I could have him install any valve body in the planet. Any thoughts?

I've got a forum member and local client here at the house with his Dodge Cummins having new +50 HP injectors, new AirDog 150 installed, and a big line kit. Now what I want to focus on here is my custom AirDog install and what it took to make it happen. On short bed trucks, the fuel tank is more forward toward the transfer case. There is not enough room for the AirDog to mount on the inside of the frame. Even on the outside of the frame is really limited using the supplied bracket and fittings. I chucked the whole idea out and started over, now thinking custom install. I had to call back to @dieselautopower and get the old school JIC fittings and have them as 90* elbows, …

I just replaced the vp44 injection pump and lift pump, now it stalls when pushing in the clutch when coming to a stop. Rpm will bounce around sometimes you can keep it from stalling by giving it fuel and pushing the clutch in. It never did this before, I had a p0252 code is the reason I changed out the the vp44. The new lift pump is a OEM. Vp44 is a remanufactured.

I am wondering what ecm number I will need to get since I have convered my 99 from an auto to manual transmission? I know that it will have to be out of a 99, but I am not sure how many different ones there are for the 99? Also since I will have to get the PCM could I get both from another year? Thanks for any help, Jon.

A few questions about bleeding air from fuel lines. After changing IP, and cracking 1,3, & 4 injector, should the fuel be dribbling out and a few air bubbles, or should it be a steady stream of fuel before tightening injectors.Another question - after tightening injectors and starting engine, should there be air in the fuel pressure gauge line

Hello, I have a late 1999 24 valve sport model appears to be 4 wheel abs, just extra information. Have edge comp, S&B cold air intake, 5 inch turbo back straight pipe, and RV injectors. Rest of truck is stock. Anyway, I am just curious as to if it is normal for the stock temp gauge on the dash to be at 140*F on a cold engine in the summer. Sits for about a week then drive it off and on this summer 2022, temps reaching high 90*F. But yeah, when I go to use the truck after starting the temp gauge is already reading 140*F. I know that is not normal but I just would like a 2nd opinion. I also do have the Mopar1973Man High Idle/Eco Switch installed. It is …

Ok guys bear with me, I did a search on changing rear main and no luck anywhere, I know I have seen it before but cant remember. If I remember right you can replace the rear main with oil pan on or off right? Right now my eng stand has the back of my block hid so I cant see it.I need to pull my oil pan before I install eng. to clear cross member. I just wanted to do everthing I can while eng is on stand. And trying to plan it all out. getting close:hyper:

I have a s363/68/12 sxe turbo, 7x.010 injectors, studs, valair dual disc, and v2 tuning. I’m looking for someone with a similar set up who has good dyno numbers and a hot dyno tune to run on the truck along with maybe using it on the street. Thanks in advance.

I was bring it home and the only way I had was to lay it on the passanger side on tires. Now I have oil everywhere in the trailer. I know it is leaking from the oil filter because I can see it's coming from the top where the seal is. At first I thought oh crap it's leaking passed rings and coming out the exhaust, but I started thinking its going to be on its side all night. So you think it will leak passed, because I am thinking if it does I am going to need to pull injectors and blow out each cylinder.

I spent quite a bit of time searching for the correct belt for a Mechman alternator install. What belt are you running on your small pulley high performance alternator? THANKS!

He posted his question to the wrong place so I will post what he put so he might have some responses when he gets back.2002 2500 cummins 4x4 starts and runs good says no bus and overhead says ccd truck goes in limp mode solutions???

Everyone,Well my truck has done this for a little while, but thought I would ask and see what people say. The truck starts great in the morning everytime. It seems to mostly do the harder starter (when it has to crank a few more times to start) when the engine is warm. I'm going to start to watch and see if that is a rule with it or not. The VP is new for the second time on 7/23/2010 from Midwest Fuel Injection. The first one was replaced on 1/11/2010. Fuel pressure is good, no codes and the truck runs great otherwise with high 17s or 18s mpg on average. Any thoughts guys??:shrug:Also I should say it did this a few times after I put the new VP on, then I tighten the injec…

I have searched for a video about how to check the flywheel bolts to see if they are tight. I have steering wheel vibration. It pretty much goes away when driving. The damper looks ok. Also, Could this be a PS problem? The engine does not vibrate, just the steering wheel.

I have a 1999 2500 with 165,000 miles. I bought the truck 6 months ago with fuel issues taking a chance. It would take partial throttle before cutting out. It had a cheap aftermarket pump on the rail (no name) that had recently been replaced. I immediately ordered a FASS titanium lift pump and b&d sump. I removed the factory fuel filter setup. The truck ran fine With zero issues until a month ago. I filled up, drove 60-70 miles and came home. The next day the truck started to have an intermittent dead pedal. Seems to be only at cruising speed, never during acceleration. Fuel pressure with key on not running is around 18psi so lift pump is fine. Fuel pressure…

(Torque till you see stars) I've read ALL the related threads and I've tried everything I can think of to get 3 fuel lines to seal at the connector tube joint. Connector tubes got new o-rings lubed with engine oil and pressed in by hand until "click" indicating fully seated past o-ring. Inspected the compression ends of the fuel lines and connector tubes and no signs of damage or over tightening. I lightly polished the fuel line ends with scotchbrite pad. Hand tightened all lines to ensure proper alignment and then bleed the system of air. After bleeding torqued to 28 ft/lb and have small weeping leak at 1, 3 & 4 (go figure, all the connections used for bleed…

I was having a yarn with a Dodge mechanic a while age and mentioned how my truck seems to really work nice once you get rolling and the auto is in overdrive and the converter locks up. He said it was built that way on purpose and thet Dodge calls it torque management. Supposedly helps the trans live a little longer. Is this correct, I tried a search but found lots of other stuff. Not so much on this. I may have even asked about it before, thought I already bugged you about it. How does it do this, i would assume it regulates the timing and fuel somewhere along the line. Thanks. Chris

Hey fellas, I'm just wondering if this is normal or if I have a sticky injector or something. It only smokes on cold starts when it is not plugged in. It goes away after a couple minutes once it warms up a it. When it's plugged in it just does its normal puff of black then no smoke and it does the same when it's a hot start or when it's above zero outside. I've also noticed that the fuel line on number 6 where it goes into the head looks damp with fuel. The fitting is tight which leads me to believe the connector tube o-ring is going/gone and if that could be the cause of the smoke. The smoke does not smell like oil, more like burn your eyes rich fuel. …

so a local shop does full rebuilds on turbos for appx $350. imma get the turbos rebuilt and have a good spare. -------- Hi Randy, For an HX35W, the starting rate for a rebuild on this turbocharger is $350.00. The $350.00 includes all new bearing, seals, bolts, thrust bearing, thrust collar and new clamps. We test your actuator to make sure it is within spec. We will check for shaft straightness to make sure it is a completely level surface. All the housings (Compressor, turbine & bearing) are all placed in ultrasonic cleaners. Then they are bead blasted and glass blasted as well. They will then be sent back into the sonic cleaners once …

Hi folks it’s been a while since I posted! Life has been busy! So I received my boost controller yesterday from eBay and I’m curious if there is gains without having a Qaudzilla? Of course I hope to get a Qaud before long but I’m curious if I could use it to build more boost without tuning? I do have a boost fooler.