2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have two more stock Lift pumps to burn up before I get a Raptor. Anyhow, would it be okay to use an 85 amp continious duty mechanical type relay (you know the old style with contacts inside) instead of the solid state ones you guys are using? Wanna run the pump off the batteries or the Alternator like some are doing, but, don't understand.... doesn't the alt put out too much amps or volts till it goes thru the volt meter first?? Where did you come off the alt?Shows how little I know, but may help someone else also.T.I.A.

Started having an issue a couple days ago. Had to crank the engine over way longer than normal. Drove to work and shut the truck off and it started right back up. Tried about 15 minutes later and the hard start issue returned. The angle the truck is parked doesn't seem to have any effect on the issue. Have tried completely removing the edge comp and it was no help. Checked for any codes, none stored. Checked over the fuel system and didn't have any leaks. Has bluish white smoke when it does finally start. Seems to start easier and faster if I give it a little throttle while cranking. Runs great after getting it started. --- Update to the previous post... Thought…

Already know my VP44 is on its way out. Other than having to warm it up considerably before it will perform decently I really hadn't had much of a problem with it. Around 14 mpg on the highway and such. Now I get home from being out of town and jump into my truck , which by the way was used by my wife with no problems over the weekend. Now the tranny is acting up. Will sometimes not shift into drive or reverse when i move the gear selector. When it does shift the only way I know its shifted is by pressing on the gas and it creeps forward. Drove it around the block and it wasn't shifting into second and was racing or flaring or whatever you call it. Checked the fluid and i…

Dead as a doornail. Wifee took it to the dump last. Haven't needed in in 3-4 weeks. Went out to move it, I stuck the key in it & the wait to start didn't come on... nothing. Looked up & the dome lights were out too. We've been down to 15 several days / nights. Surely the batteries have frozen & are junk. I slapped a 6A charger on it, biggest I have... maybe I can heat them up enough to jump start after a few days. I didn't see anything left on... there's not much to leave on. I'll have to look for the paperwork... have a pair of DieHards in it. They should still be in warentee. Dog crap...

I've heard conflicting information about how much vapor pressure exists inside a Cummins during normal operating temperatures. One guy said it was outrageously high while another said it can't exceed the radiator cap pressure rating. Is the pressure greater inside the engine than inside the radiator?

I have a 01 Automatic. I replaced the auto and upgraded. I want to stick 80 to 100 Dap Injectors but i am worried about the turbo. The hy is a pos. Will a hx40 give me the boost i need?

OK fellow Cummins fans, I've got a big problem that many days of web searching has not found an answer to.I recently replaced the VP$$ and added an Airdog 100. Now my truck will start fine when cold and runs great. The trouble comes when I try to start it when hot. The engine will fire immediately and idle for a couple of seconds then it stumbles and dies. I can re-fire it immediately with the same result. If I try to start it within 5 minutes of shutdown all is well. Beyond that it's a no go until the engine is cold again. Does this condition fall under the hot start banner? Would the LP cutoff relay mod help me? Idle PSI is about 17psi on my test gauge. I don't have an …

So, I wrecked my truck and decided to replace the engine due to the 53 block being cracked. Problem has been finding anything other than a 53. So, I'm back to the idea of repairing the block. I will not be hotrodding this truck. In fact, I've only put about 3k miles on it since buying it in January 2011 (tow vehicle only). I also know that I should replace the block. I'm looking for no kidding factual information from experienced folks who have either succeeded or failed at repairs, whether it be by welding or Lock N Stitch. Thanks

Which Dino oil you guys? I don't like the new 'LOW-E CJ-4 stuff so I'm lost on the right oil for my two older CTD's. A 96 and a 2002. Don't want synth:tease:. It's JUST THAT IT'S Too expensive for the regular interval oil changes.Thanks a bunch in advance . Just lost:ahhh:

Hey guys I was having a problem that if i went around 76-80 mph on the freeway with my truck and came to a stop on the off ramp the trans would only down shift to 2nd gear. So last night I put in the Borg Warner drop in replacement and it seemed to work:hyper:. Now for the bad news, when I pulled the pan off the bottom of the pan was full of metal shavings:cry: My rebuild is about 2yrs old and when I had it done I put in the good red clutchs and it seems to shift fine with no slippage so well see what happends I hope she lasts:pray:

my raptor fuel pump stopped putting pressure out about 3weeks ago. the motor runs fine but no fuel pressure is read from mechanical and electrical gauge. checked voltage and it is good at 8.5 volts without starting it. the motor turns and there is no suction on inlet. so i told airdog about it and they shipped me a new one. i just installed it, and there is no suction. it will not prime. 2 spinning pumps, so what the heck am i doing wrong?

Hey guys, I got a rebuilt tranny job not too long ago. The guy put a tow/haul valve body in for me. It shifts later than stock to get the engine to rev higher. He said something about the OD button, but I can't remember. Would it still be ok to have my OD or should I still turn it off when tow/hauling?

Well I had been noticing that my filter seemed a little bit dirty but never thought to check the turbo Yesterday I noticed it had an oil residue which I could of sworn it was perfectly clean with the oem filter 15,000 miles ago I just picked up and replaced with the napa 6637 part number filter Do you think my amsoil filter wasn't working so great or would this residue be from a seal within the turbo? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tell ya, the thinking stuff pours in every now and then. So here is my latest thought! We all are aware of the high idle mod and moparmans IAT sensor mod that helps MPG's. BUT, what about a way to modify the whatever (ECM, PCM, etc.) to allow the engine to only inject fuel in the cylinders on demand?Some have the 3cylinder high idle, and that helps in warmups. But what if there is a way to allow the engine to only run on 3 cylinders or less or any amount desired to cut down on fuel and raise MPG's? Surely someone around here is smart enough to know whether or not it can be done?Some of the newer vehicles do the same thing. They run on 3-4 until a certain speed or thrott…

I have seen several threads on how big a load you can pull. How big of a load have you hauled in your bed. I just had to go after brick for my mason. I put 2 cubes of brick in the bed. That is somwhere in the neighborhood of 6k pounds. The truck had plenty of power to haul, my rv out weighs it considerably. the first cube put it just above the overloads and the second cube put hard on them. I was able to get the load centerd in the bed(2 cubes=6'-6" long) which helped put some weight to the front. But i was really suprised she handled that much weight in the bed as well as it did. She sat level, rode great, steering was a little light but handled pretty normal,when you h…

Hey guys, I gots me an AirDog II 165. I installed it back in September and have been with this quirk since then. I'm not sure if it is a problem or anything but just wanted to see if others experience this?I got my fuel pressure at 20psi according to my fuel pressure gauge. When I start the truck and the grid heaters kick on, the fuel gauge will go down to 15-16psi. When the grid heaters switch off, the fuel jumps back up to 20 psi. I have watched the fuel in the line move back and forth to the gauge as they switch on and off.Its a mechanical gauge with a cage protector in between the stock fuel filter housing and gauge.WOT never shows fuel pressure to be lower than 15psi…

Folks - I began having issues a few weeks ago and I've done a lot of research on the VP symptoms/diagnosis option to rule the VP in/out as my problem. My mechanic will run the codes with scanner tomorrow when it goes in and replace vp if he agrees, but I'd like to get other opinions as well.Truck has a Fass fuel pump and pressure guage reads 19-21 at idle and no lower than 14 at WOT. Started a week after I bought it. On cold start and go situations, it would not get out of its own way. It would clear up after a few miles and rip like normal.It was recommended that I warm it up for 5-10 minutes before driving when cold out. Wont pretend to know why it was suggested, b…

Hello,I am new to the site not new to Cummins or diesel but just purchased a 24V truck and need some guidance.The truck is a 2001 HO sixspeed. I just purchased (among MANY other things) a Qaudzilla Adrenaline with the V2 screen. I also am purchasing a FASS setup. I am doing all this from a computer as Im overseas and my trucks are in Texas.I need to know what kind of fitting do I need to run the FASS and the Qaudzilla sender into the VP44. Is it a T-fitting? Anyone with pics or helpful info would be greatly appreciated. I searched on CF but couldn't find a good pic of anyones setup.Thank you in advance,Zack

I need some advice from someone smarter than myself on what may cause my issue. I am getting white smoke under acceleration until the truck gets to operating temp then it goes away completely and I can't make it smoke. No smoke whatsoever at idle just a puff of black just as it starts. I just recently replaced a head gasket so EVERYTHING has been taken off my truck recently and I'm not sure where to begin to start if I have a connection that may be fouled up. One thing I do need to do after reading some of Mopar's articles on injector and fuel line reinstalling after the change and I have realized I need to first take the tubes back out and clean the tips of them as well …

My Haynes manual shows a "Parker access valve" with 1/8 NPT threads for checking fuel pressure @ the F/W seperator.Does anyone know where to find one ? all the local parts stores don`t seem to have a clue what I am talking about.