2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,279 topics in this forum
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Folks - I began having issues a few weeks ago and I've done a lot of research on the VP symptoms/diagnosis option to rule the VP in/out as my problem. My mechanic will run the codes with scanner tomorrow when it goes in and replace vp if he agrees, but I'd like to get other opinions as well.Truck has a Fass fuel pump and pressure guage reads 19-21 at idle and no lower than 14 at WOT. Started a week after I bought it. On cold start and go situations, it would not get out of its own way. It would clear up after a few miles and rip like normal.It was recommended that I warm it up for 5-10 minutes before driving when cold out. Wont pretend to know why it was suggested, b…
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- 16 replies
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Hello,I am new to the site not new to Cummins or diesel but just purchased a 24V truck and need some guidance.The truck is a 2001 HO sixspeed. I just purchased (among MANY other things) a Qaudzilla Adrenaline with the V2 screen. I also am purchasing a FASS setup. I am doing all this from a computer as Im overseas and my trucks are in Texas.I need to know what kind of fitting do I need to run the FASS and the Qaudzilla sender into the VP44. Is it a T-fitting? Anyone with pics or helpful info would be greatly appreciated. I searched on CF but couldn't find a good pic of anyones setup.Thank you in advance,Zack
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- 23 replies
- 4.5k views
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I need some advice from someone smarter than myself on what may cause my issue. I am getting white smoke under acceleration until the truck gets to operating temp then it goes away completely and I can't make it smoke. No smoke whatsoever at idle just a puff of black just as it starts. I just recently replaced a head gasket so EVERYTHING has been taken off my truck recently and I'm not sure where to begin to start if I have a connection that may be fouled up. One thing I do need to do after reading some of Mopar's articles on injector and fuel line reinstalling after the change and I have realized I need to first take the tubes back out and clean the tips of them as well …
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- 29 replies
- 11.5k views
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My Haynes manual shows a "Parker access valve" with 1/8 NPT threads for checking fuel pressure @ the F/W seperator.Does anyone know where to find one ? all the local parts stores don`t seem to have a clue what I am talking about.
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What replacement parts, besides filters, do you guys, have in the tool box for long runs?I have to carry an extra stock lift pump and fuel pressure sending unit for the gauge.Are there any sensors or extra parts that are important?My last long run was over 1200 miles. What a blast!:ahhh:T.I.A.
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- 11 replies
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my sons 99 model died and would not restart, I have traced the problem back to the ECM which is only sending 8.9 volts to the lift pump. I have disconnected the pump and the 50 pin connector on the ECM checked for short circuit and everything is good. I then cleaned and checked the 50 pin connector reassembled and still 8.9 volts coming out of the ECM.I was wondering if anyone has seen this issue before ?
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- 18 replies
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Hey guys, new here. This subject is what has got me registered here and staying here now. I looked on moparmans tech articles and saw the one about the BHAF.So I got under the hood and out of curiosity, I gave it all a looky-loo. What I found next was un-nerving. The tube to the turbo inlet was taken off and the inlet to the turbo looked exactly like the picture of the one in his article. Upon further reading, it turns out that it is because of those good ol' k&n filters. Well, it turns out I have one too!The thing is, I'm nervous about what damage it may have caused. Any debris like that is NOT good! My truck seems to run and perform just fine, but I can also be on b…
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- 22 replies
- 6.2k views
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oil leak coming from behind plastic cover. I suspect stamped-metal side cover is leaking. Any thoughts? Can i buy gasket at NAPA(cummins part number?) or need to special order from dealer?I thank you in advance for your feedback
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- 10 replies
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Im new to the diesel world Please help Me , when i start my truck cold it always starts right up and sounds and idles good even in cold weather , after about 3 min or so give or take idle goes to surging and misssing sounding like crap, When i put it under load miss seems to go away and idle sounds good although I do still notice a small amount of surging and you can see it on the the rpm gauge and the volt meter
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- 8 replies
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Well I finally gone in done it... I yanked out the factory batteries and replaced them with a set of WalMart Batteries. I was shocked I to find that the Group 27 batteries where only $89 bucks a piece and they are 850 CCA batteries. I was smart and brought my tools along and changed them right in the parking lots and wheeled the tired stock batteries in the store and collected my $18 bucks worth of core charge. I got to admit the charging voltage is a bit lower and the starter seems to spin much easier. But after getting nearly 10 years from the stock batteries it was time to retire them.
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- 28 replies
- 6.4k views
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I recently installed a set of RV 275's. I had some fuel weeping at some of the connections at the head before replacement. I replaced two of my cross over tubes and all of the orings on the rest. I still had some weeping which has gotten steadily worse. On my trip back to work from home it was really bad and I have leaks at all of the connections. So bad it has washed the underside of the truck and coated the tail gate with fuel. I also leave a nasty stain any where I park it on a highway trip. Around town it is not bad, but still leaking. I am not sure what to do other than replace the orings again and see what happens. Anybody have any suggestions?
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- 9 replies
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Ill start from the beginning...About a year ago driving one day i noticed my check gauge lite come on and the volt meter was dead. Truck still running, i shut down and restarted no issues and it was gone. I figured it to be a dirty connection to the battery. It went away for about a year.6 months ago it happened again, same thing, shut down restart and went away...3 months ago yet again. this time i left it running and i checked with my volt meter as i was close to home and found it to be at ~12v at the battery. i figured it to be the alternator on its way out. I shut down and restarted and it was still at 12v but then jumped back to its normal ~14vthis past saturday it d…
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- 0 replies
- 2k views
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hello, newbie and first posti took my injectors out and sent them in and had them pop tested 3 came back good and the other 3 came back bad sticking nozzels,,,Can nozzels stick?i pulled the three bad ones apart just as one of your post shows and nothing was sticking so what do they mean?can this be true?
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- 4 replies
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I am getting ready to swap my 47re to a nv4500, I have all the parts gathered with the exception of the transfercase linkage. My question is , I was going to buy the 5 speed setup on eBay, but noticed my automatic setup looks the same, are they the same or in fact different. I am referring to the pivot mechanism that bolts to the floor and the Rods and such. Thanks in advance!! --- Update to the previous post... Help guys, I need to find this out so I can get started, Thanks!!!
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Had a put an external voltage regulator on my truck because the one in the pcm went bad a long time ago... anyways today the truck started to overcharge, i cought it and pulled over asap. unplugged the external regulator so the truck was just running off the batteries got about half way home and the thing died going down the road. Pulled over, checked my raptor pump and it was putting pressure to the filter housing just fine... changed filter, it was not that bad and usually they do not just make the truck die, but changed it just in case. Then it started up and drove home fine. After about 10mins of being home went to move the truck started then died right away. Started …
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- 16 replies
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Well I just had a bad day! While driving my truck passing someone up hill I lost all power so I coasted to the shoulder!:banghead: After checking for fuel at the injectors with #1 and #3 lines cracked loose and getting nothing I then went with the inlet line and broke it loose fuel sprayed everywhere! I called my buddy with his 2008 Chevy 1500 and with a tow strap we made it home!!!:banghead: Broke out the scanner and found a P0251 YIKES!!!:banghead: From what I found on this site that means I need a new VP44?!?!? Can someone please tell me I'm wrong??? If I'm not where is the best place to buy a new IP from? Thanks for the help in advance!
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- 34 replies
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i changed the 15 psi spring out for the 17 psi spring and it worked great, then i went back and put the 15 psi spring back in and the regulator which is on pump snd there is no pressure but the pump does run when bumped. is there something under the ring that the spring sits on that i could have misaligned?
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- 16 replies
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Anyone have any opinions on what to use and how to go about this process? Thanks.
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- 28 replies
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Ok here goes, i have my truck (in the sig) that has a noticable miss when the air temperature is below 40 deg or so. The colder it gets, the worse it is. But it only happens when the engine is under a slight load, not at idle, not at wot. The higher the chip is turned up the more noticable it is also. When the outside temp get above 50 or so I can turn the chip up as far as I want and I'll never feel it.Now my dad's truck is an '02, 6 spd, has a 70 hp bully dog chip on it also does the same thing. Not as noticable but its definitely there when it gets cold or when you throw a trailer behind it. My dad's spent a lot of time at different shops trying to figure this ou…
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- 20 replies
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