2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello everyone, I haven't been in here much lately, too much stuff. But now I have several things happening with the truck. Problem 1 I backed it up into the barn the other day during a downpour, so had to engage 4wd to not spin on the slope. I forgot to disengage as I moved and slid it out without enough time for it to fully do so. I parked it and left it for a few days. I start it up and bring it out and slide it out of 4x but I notice that my brake warning light never turned off, nor did my ABS dummy light. Now, my brakes were working, but the pedal travels a fair amount before I really find resistance. I'm not certain they are working at 100%. I've had a lot of brak…

Just as the title states it is just a momentary burp. Very repeatable. Doesn't matter if the engine is cold, hot, etc. According to the Edge Attitude monitor it is not related to throttle position (as the percent of throttle in which it occurs can be different and it still happens.) You can feel a slight lag in the truck then it picks up again. It is fine before or after. It happens about 80% of the time. Some clues that may help...it didn't happen before my hard starting problem appeared. However about a year before the hard starting appeared my check engine light came on and it was diagnosed as a crank position sensor code. The code went away and therefore the …

My heater is warm at best when the truck is at normal operating temperature, using a temperature sensor on my multimeter it's only about 100 degrees. Just had a new headgasket put on at a local diesel shop and the head machined and tested with no leaks or cracks in the head. Put a new waterpump and Cummins thermostat in it, not sure if it was a 180 or 190 but it runs right at 190 according to the dash gauge. What should be the normal temperature of the air coming out of the heater? And any ideas what to check?2001 3/4 5.9 L Standard output, rebuilt engine stock.

The below letter was sent to BANKS... anyone have this problem? I bought my 98.5 Cummins and the gauges were not working, I call Larry he said ,we need to re-flash the Ottomind so i sent it next day air to you. Got a call from Joe saying they wanted to test it in your steak bed. It all check out Great and sent back to me...I installed it to find out that I still have no working gauges...I have a red LED then key on green, when I start and I never get the red LED...I called and talked to James and Jim and Joe many times Jim was going the get with James and I never heard back so I called and talked to Joe, We tried changing the gauge wiring harness...That didn't work... So …

My 02 runs a little over the half way mark on the temp gauge at all times ( once its warm ) which kicks the clutch fan on was wondering if that's ok ?

I got the Donaldson B105006 off E-Bay for $52.25 shipped to my door. When I removed the filter box the I found that the 3 retaining bolts are built in to the fender. What do you do in order to mount the BHAF? Do you grind them off level with the top of the fender, or leave then as they are? MOHOK

I've been using Shell's Rotella Triple protection 15W40 for a while now for my truck and I also use it in my tractor. So today I noticed as I was changing my tractor oil that I needed more, went to buy a 20 litre pail and they had none. They had the 9.5 litre pail and i look on the back and it says the specs listed and it includes Cummins engines. I go to a different store, same looking oil container but the back doesn't say Cummins, but it's still a Heavy Duty engine oil able to be used in Heavy equipment same as the other container says. I call Shell when I get home and they say basically it's all the same oil, they just changed the look , took the diesel writing off …

after my fuel life thread kinda turned into a fuel filter thread, i thought i would just ask what is best.my set up;AD II 165 with AD filters, run to the stock fuel canister, vulcan bif line kit to the vp.i am currently running the stock filters on the AD and the filter in the stock fuel canister is what ever i bought last. it seems the filter in the stock fuel canister no matter where you buy it is the same. in other words i do not have a clue as how good it is. My AD has a WS100 and a ff100-2. i need to order some replacements. thru all the discussions i am not sure which way to go. AH you are the man on filters which ones should i be using. As a father who has one son …

So... In the relay / bus box on the drivers side behind the battery. There are two leads, going into the box. A red one, and a black one. The red wire, goes to the drivers side battery, and the black one goes where? I can't seem to find it on any of the wiring diagrams. (if i am missing it on one of Mike's diagrams, please help) I am showing 12V on the black wire as well as the red, and before putting a DVM on it I had always assumed it was a ground. Does it go to the curbside battery? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1689&d=1301768556

Just rebuilt my 47re and have a couple problems going on. It is slipping with the TC locked, no matter in drive or overdrive. Fluid level keeps going down with no leaks and not going into the antifreeze like a cooler is blown out or something. I have already put 16 quarts of oil in the transmission and it is showing a quart low again. Just put in a stock overhaul kit, a shift kit in the valve body and a single disc billet converter. I'm kinda lost for where to go next other than keep dumping fluid to the thing until it quits going down.

Ok guys I need some help! Just purchased pyro and tranny temp gauges to go along with my FP gauge. Got some questions: 1. Do you put the tranny sensor on the line that is on the left front corner of the tranny? 2. Is there any reason why they sent a 6' connector wire that goes from the pyro sensor to the elctrical sensor for the pyro? Looks like the wires are already long enough to connect! 3. Where is the best place to get the 12v power source for these 2 electrical boxes? I have seen a picture as to where to drill the manifold for the pyro sensor, I will look for that! Thanks for your input!Update:After looking for the picture where to put the EGT probe, I go and look a…

I need to change my filters on my 01 and I need to buy a AirDog for my 05. I dont know if I am the only one a little confused on this or what. I wont to get the best filters for my 05 for sure so what do I need?I looked up HF6604 and it came back Hyd. filter for 77.50:stuned: So is the Baldwin 1212 the best for water seperater?

I am experiencing what i think is the TC going in and out of lock up. This occurs randomly and anywhere from 40 at initial shift into OD and cruising at 70+ on the interstate in cruise control. The tach jumps approximately 250 for anywhere from 1 second to 20 seconds with no increase in speed. I have taken the truck to a friend (master mechanic) and he said it could be due to brake switch position. he adjusted the switch with no favorable result. He said that the position of the switch in relation to the steering column does not allow for adequate movement to remove the gap between switch and pedal. The next step that he recommended was a new switch that could be modified…

What is the verdict on using a Fram BHAF? I have used Fram oil filters on my truck for 85k miles without any problems. I used Fram Air Filters on my truck before I got the S&B Cold Air Intake. I think the S&B upgrade was a waste of money. Additionally, I have run Fram filters in most of the vehicles I have owned over the past 50 years. Mohok

Sooo I gotta go help this guy because I know his daughter and ehhh. Anyhow, he went to autozone and got a new battery, wonderful kid there crossed the leads and fried the battery. Think he said they put another battery in, correctly, and it started 3 times so he drove it home. He gets home, inspects the battery and finds the negative lead loose, he puts a shim in it to get it tight and gets in and "click".Says the hood light and dome light are on, nothing else works. I am thinking he fried the other battery which they didn't replace and between it and the new battery it had enough to start 3 times and then it just lived off the alternator, but slowly died on the way h…

Here is my deal, My truck was running fine then just died sort of felt like it jumped out of gear but that could of been the loss of power. Refire run really rough only idle no foot feet response. Now doesn't start at all. So what I have learned so far is pump must of went.So my truck is a 99 but I have a pump on a 2001 motor is it the same? I sort of want to be sure I'm 600 miles from the 01 pump and don't want to rent a car and drive that far if it might not work. Thanks

Hello all I am new to this forum and hoping to find some insight. I have a 98.5 with the following mods,Edge juice with attitude, turbo modified by Gillette diesel, 275 RV injectors AFE intake and 4" turbo back.What i am seeing is some weird temp issues. Truck unloaded sitting at a stop light will start building temp for no reason starts at 180 and sometimes will go up to 190 or higher, ambient temp plays no factor will do it on a 55 deg morning or a 90 deg day. Differnt from one stop light to the next. Took to my local shop that helps me out strapped down to dyno duplicated problem but here is where it gets weird, one pull the truck wont break 190 with a 60% load applied…

I am going to try bf 1212. I see that the rubber gasket is shorter than the fleetguards. Is the filter housing machined different ?

Well I finally got around to cleaning up my RV275 injectors again... I've always had a random misfire problem with them at idle, only when hot. Finally got bad enough that I couldn't deal with it any more. I yanked them out and stuck in my stock injectors. In the mean time, I went out and bought a digital caliper for the tool box. So I figured I would pull them apart and measure the pintle needle, copper washer thickness, and spring shim.Kind of shocked at a few injectors... [TABLE=align: center][TR][TD]Copper Shim (Inch)[/TD][TD]Pintle thick end (Inch)[/TD][TD]Pintle thin end (Inch)[/TD][TD]Spring Shim (Inch)[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]0.0545[/TD][TD]0.1570[/TD][TD]0.1270[/TD][T…

Ok Gang...While I was out on my camping trip and hauling around my 31' Jayco Eagle Travel Trailer I had some weird fuel pressure problems occuring. Start up cold and get 17.5 just about 18 PSI at a idle and then pull the grade up to New Meadows, ID still holding 16 PSI which is normal and fine. But now as the day got hotter and we got down around Council, ID the pressure fell off to 12.5 at WOT and idled at 15 PSI. Hua??? While I was stopped the at one place I played with bumping the starter and you can see 17-18 PSI and then hear a change in pump pitch and the pressure fall again to 15 PSI. It's like the check ball is hanging up again. So I'm going to pull it back apart…