2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

VP44 gave me fits, and took almost a full 2 hours of cranking, charging, cranking, charging, cranking, charging, tightening lines, and finally, finally after all that priming drama, it started up. Timing is dead-nuts on, starts with a twist of the key, no codes, nothing. Next up: get Wal Mart to replace the dying twin of the battery I made them replace last month; pull the bed to install Mr. FASS150, and procure a Vulcan big line kit. www.ronman.org/misc/truck1.mov www.ronman.org/misc/truck2.mov

Your going to think I am crazy, but what would make your fuel pressure go up when you hit your brakes. Pressure runs steady 17psi hit the brakes and it goes up to 18.50 almost 19.:shrug:It has done this since I replaced my airdog 100 with the 150.

I finished my fooler the day after x-mas. I managed to find a 3 position on-on-on switch for the fast idle and a project box that fit perfectly in my ashtray. My only screw-up was on the label for the "Normal" on the fast idle side (the L doesn't show). In hindsite I wish I would have gone "Normal" on the bottom, "3 Cyl." in the middle and "6 Cyl." on the top; that way both switches would have been down in the Normal position. Today was the first time I tried, even after I drove the truck to NAPA to get a headlamp for my wife's car, it fast idled with the switches in the "6 Cyl." and "123F" positions. I thought this was a one time shot at start up, but for grins I th…

I have a 2001 dodge quad 2500 4x4 auto with 34 in tires, question is I get lots of wheel spin with only 1 wheel pulling, but lock in 4 wheel drive the front end locks. Is the rear end open carrier when stock and what do yall recommend as a good locker for rear. Also thinking of going to a 410 gear from the stock 355 front and rear. Thanks for the help in advance

I need new front axle u joints and the only ones I can find localy are precision u joints. Are these any good? Should I go with greasable or sealed? I don't mind doing the maintenance.

i have my block warmer on a timer. When it's really cold, go out and trip it back on. but i had to leave in an emergency, and it was -18.What happened was it cranked hard, (no big surprise there) and as soon as oil pressure came up, it kicked to 3 cyl idle. it skipped right over the 2 min normal idle and the 20-30 seconds of high idle. i hit the brake to stop it and it ran rough until the normal program kicked it back in.just thought i'd share that, because i didn't know it would do it that way.

Has anyone here had any experince with the lock n stitch method on repairing a 53 block? I have some ideas of just brazing it and then use there bracket to help support the block.I have no idea how much the lock n stitch is cost wise.

Does anyone know where someone could find the gromment for the fuel tank where the plumbing (suction/ return) lines go into tank? Mine was in bad shape and need to replace soon. Went to Dodge and said they cannot get it because the have supercided it so many times:banghead:. They wanted to know if i had the number that is on the gromment and they could search but it is torn there. Anyone have there tank exposed so they can see the number? Or have a location on where to get one? Any help would be greatful.

I had some errands to run today and drove the truck. As normal the temperature came up and held steady at 190*. I stopped at the local station to top off the fuel and left the truck running.It was in the low teens here in Michigan today. I know it's colder in other states but.............By the time I had topped off and went in to pay the temperature had dropped to about 160*Why..........

driving home from work about a month ago pedal goes dead replace apps sensor. drive to work does fine leave work just fine till a mile from home dead pedal again. reset apps good to the end of the driveway. back to the garage now with codes 1693 1286 0237 0236 0122 1475 0577. checked for broken wires and bad grounds replaced map sensor. started it up no bus and still no pedal. im lost

My fuel filter bowl drain has a constant drip leak out of the drain valve. I have monkeyed with it but can't get it to stop. It was doing about one drip per second but now I have it down to about one drip every 10 seconds. It is still leaking straight on to the engine mount and there is a fuel sheen on everything on that side of the block, and the truck stinks like a diesel leak.Is this common at all? It seems that just the plastic valve for emptying the fuel bowl is what is leaking, or rather, won't close back up completely. Can I buy a new plastic valve or anything to fix this? Some O-ring in there to replace?Thanks in advance

I got the sudden urge to creep underneath the truck earlier, and discovered an oil leak at the end of the transmission where the driveline connects. There's a gasket there and that's where the oil is leaking from. There's a drip there, I don't even wanna know how much fluid I've already lost just from driving it. Luckily I caught it in time and know it's there now. Anybody know what I'm talkin about? How hard of a fix is this?

Manufacturer recommends oil to be changed at the 7,500 mile interval along with other things. I've heard of people going to the full 7,500 and some won't even go past 3,000.I know it's a dumb question to be asking but, I can only come up with 2 conclusions to this.3,000 miles can be pretty costly but, increases engine life as it's being flushed out with new oil. I guess those who can afford will do this.7,500 will be more cost effective in the long run but, you have just doubled the contaminants introduced into the system by doing it at this time. We all know that oil serves us 4 purposes, and that is, seal, cool, lubricate, and clean. Only makes sense that all four of th…

FASS 150, AirDog drawstraw, Cat filter & head.

I slid my fuel plate full forward and when my truck shifts into over drive I'm getting shutter the tranny has only got bout 40k on a rebuild it only does it if your running the rpm 2k or above am I just over powering the tc It's not a billit tc

Hey guys just wanted to let everyone know I'm on the hunt to make my truck a manual shift If anyone knows were I can find a tranny pedals slave cylinder and and any thing else please shoot me a message the parts need to fit my 1995 I'll take a 6speed or a5speed

At 45 mph my tranny feels like it jumping in and out of over drive eng at 50 its good, any one had this problem and what is the fix.

i am putting a new clutch in my 02. i will have the tranny in my hand. it is pushing itself out of 1st and rev. when backing up or pulling forward, when i let of of the throttle something is pushing it out of gear. you can feel it in the shifter, like i was on the otherside pushing it out of gear. has anyone had experience with this? --- Update to the previous post... is it possible for a bad pilot bearing or input shaft bearing to cause this?

Anybody have any pricing? All I find is short blocks for sale and no pricing. Act like if they put a price on it the voodo dolls will come out or something.

The oil pressure on my truck always reads above 40. It is usually just before the slash mark between the middle 40 and the max 110 readings. (On the stock gauge) Is this alright? Why would it show this high?Thanks