2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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I'm going to replace the left and right mount with new OEM's. What is the best way? Is there a way to get a bottle jack under the motor or pan flange and do one side at a time? Or do you have to use an engine hoist and lift from the top? Any tips?
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My 47RE wont shift if my Quadzilla tuner is on anything other than the stock setting at WOT from a dead stop. If I let off just a bit it will shift. I know its not slipping, almost feels like torque management de-rating the engine till i let off. Any help is appreciated.
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Ok guys here is another question to ponder. Which one would you add/stack with a TST power programmer. A Smarty or the MVP tuner? If Im not mistaken they both control timing and are better for low end torque, but unsure which would be better of the two. Im looking for more low end torque to help the TST. The power band doesnt kick in with the TST until later in the rpm band. Any thoughts? Anybody have this set up? I know people tell me to just by both, but lets get real.
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So the cap on the water/fuel separator keeps popping off. Replaced cap an it blew off again. So replaced filter an cap this time an made it a few more kms before popping the threads on the cap an its leaking again. Any ideas???
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Taking my truck to the dealer, had enough. I did find one new thing the intermittent wipers do not work and they do not stop at home. There is a black box under the dash next to the ash tray. It's called the CTM. It controls the delayed wipers and other functions on the CCD bus! Thought I would put this on here, hope it might help someone else.
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I picked up a 1993 Dakota 3.9 V6 yesterday that has a trans issue. It shudders real bad when shifting from first gear and has no get up and go. I’m thinking torque converter.
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Has anyone cryo'd their input shaft? I'm sure this is a cheaper alternative to billet but someone mentioned it and I'm curious.
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My truck has another problem this week. HVAC is stuck on defrost, the vacuum pump produces vacuum, and all the hoses are connected. How much vacuum should I be seeing at the vacuum distribution plugs near the heater output? there is some oil leakage through the vacuum pump, so is this causing poor vacuum?
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I'm thinking this brake will fit mine, and I shouldn't really have to have the downpipe? I have 4" MBRP from the turbo back on mine now, and this looks like it also fits an HX from my 02 ? Buddy isn't quite sure if it's all there, thought maybe you could tell by the pictures since you have one on your truck http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-2nd-gen-all-products/547752-banks-exhaust-brake-f-s-edmonton-ab.html - - - Updated - - - I guess I shoudn't have just asked Mike on this seeing others are running the brakes too :banghead:. Anyone else want to chime in?
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Ok, the other day I changed the oil and filter and every other oil change I change the fuel filter. This time I notice a litte dirt inside the housing so I drain the housing and clean out the dirt. It was cold out so I left the fuel bowl empty. In the past I've just filled it up to the top of fuel stem and rolled the key a couple of times and it would start. I forgot to fill the fuel bowl back up today and just rolled the key, and now it won't start. Pulled the filter and the bowl has fuel but it won't fire. I seen an article on here before about loosening fuel lines in a certain order but cannot find it. A little help would be appreciated.........
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Retracted question
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Got my rad out and flushing the system and a new thermo. The hoses dont look to be bad but since I there....... What is a good brand of hoses? I dont like autozone anything. So far Napa has been the better place but they are $$ in my town, but will go there for quailty if needed. Does anyone make silicone hoses for our trucks? --- Update to the previous post... Well found silicone hose kits....Umm yea gonna wait on those. lol http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/accessories/dodge_cummins_silicone_hoses.html http://www.mishimoto.com/dodge-truck-silicone-hoses.html http://www.mrbobsdistributing.com/dodge.htm So what brand in a normal hose? Goody…
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@Mopar1973Man Hello , my name is Eric I’m new to this whole diesel thing so go easy on me I’ll try to giv as much info as I can. I bought this truck beginning of February and it needed some much needed tlc the kid that had it before me left it it kinda rough shape. I replaced a lot and a new coat of paint and some body work to fix the rust, new lift pump and a new tuner with a monitor to top it off. (Edge juice with attitude cts2 monitor). Recently I’ve had some issues I can’t quite explain , a couple of weeks ago the truck would act like it was in limp mode it was almost like it was stuck in 3rd gear maybe and if I would step on it I would get no power, …
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Hey guys, my name is Kerry and I have a '99 Dodge Ram 3500 2wd. I'm having a problem with the tach dropping off and the truck loses power. It last for a few minutes then everything starts working again but sometimes the tach will act erratically and the truck will start missing. If anyone can give me an idea of what to check or do to fix this issue I would greatly appreciate it!!!
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Hi there I hoping someone can help me with My 2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins , this truck is the first new truck I have ever owned bought it for the motor after working on and around Heavy equipment most of My life . Just after I bought it about 4500 Miles when pulling a grade rolling at 54 to 68 Mph the Rpms would drop 2-250 rpm and jerk a bit but only loaded down and going up hill .I took it strait to Earn Harts Dodge It was there a week they all's they did was flash it and it lost a ton of power and it did not fix it .Next they put a APPS in it , no good plus 4 more At Larry Miller Dodge Glendale AZ just to make sure next they rewired the power wire from the Alt so many ti…
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Started off with finding out my heater core started to leak but the stuff should be at the house sometime within a week. But as of this morning I have know low beams but I do have high beams. So after worked stopped and picked up a new headlight switch from my local junkyard and that didn't fix it. I have checked the fuses and not really sure where to start next.
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So, I was driving home and the truck was running great after having replaced the Governor Pressure Solenoid in the 47re and then suddenly I lose power, truck won’t go above 1500 rpm and Check Engine Light rears it’s ugly head. I limp home and start looking into it. At first I would get no code at all, truck starts fine, idles well at 850ish but touch the pedal and it shoots straight to 1500 RPM and stays there. Let go it goes right back to 850ish and idles fine. I eventually got the damn thing to give me the code P1689....not what I wanted to see form what I have read. So, I changed my fuel filter, checked my connections to the VP44 and made sure t…
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Finally got the head home and head gasket. The only thing I forgot was my lube for the ARP 425 studs. Then last night had a chat with another forum member that showed me a much better nut for ARP studs. Much bigger flange on the nut and thicker body. Last night I got another friend Andrew to help me place the head back on the block. As soon as the ARP thread lube gets here I can start stuffing studs in. Truck has been sitting for long time and need to get it running again.
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Ok im ready to go on a turbo and exhaust upgrade. As for the exhaust im thinking five inch straight out the back? Or is four inch better?The turbo part i have no clue. My egt is always real high. Like seven eight hundred just driving around. I seem to remember seeing a thread somewhere where someones turbo actually cooled down egts when it spooled up.Not looking for horsepower specifically, but ill take it. more for a cooler machine. Also do some towing but not alot. Thirty to fourty boost is enough for me.Current turbo is hy35 stock exhuastPlease let me know, i have the money but winters comin so i need to spend now before motocross starts and i waste money on another ne…
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Have a 2001 dodge nv4500 I’m having issues once the gauge starts to move and truck warms up I’m having a cuttting out issue around 18-2200 rpm it’ll cut out like it’s banging off the rev limiter have some whiteish blue smoke and you can floor it and it goes away. Ive replaced the. Injection pump,lift pump with a air dog 150, injectors, turbo, cam sensor. Tpps, map sensor, IAT sensor, coolaint temp sensor, fuel lresure is 18 at idle 14 at WOT. Funny thing is if you drive the truck like a jack *** it doesn’t mess up but if you drive it normal it messes up every time. Ecm???
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