2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

On our way home from a road trip today, cruised for about an hour and a half at 70mph. We got off the highway and go to take off from the stop, and it takes off in second gear and would not shift. I pull over and check the fluid, it looks fine, smells fine. I take off, and now it does not have first gear, but seems to shift/run fine in all other gears. I did notice a week ago that it would hunt @ 45 mph alittle. Thinking maybe the govn solenoid in the trans has gone out...I think I might change the oil and filter, been @ 50k since it was done. And change the two solenoids in the trans, and cross my fingers....Any other ideas?

Any body using the 6.7 water pump in their 5.9... if so see any improvements like when towing in mountains stays cooler longer before fan comes on? Any other pluses or minuses? Thanks

i had a weird one today. i came down the off ramp and made my stop. went to take off and as i am taking off truck died. rolled to a stop and put it in park and it fired right back up but i got a CIL and the code was PO720 which is output shaft speed sensor could it cause it to die like that . it sucked cause i had on coming traffic as it died .

My tranny was workin fine since I put in my new TC but this afternoon as i pulled out to go around a truck on the road doin bout 20 mile/hr it decided to stay in 3rd gear lockup and just about stalled the truck! From there it went downhill to the point now where i only got 1st gear and my edge pulls up no codes and niether does the key trick! i quick went to town and got a tranny output speed sensor but that didnt change anything. whats the next thing i should try?

Has happened twice in the past month; Truck will not charge, Check Gauge light comes on. After 20-25 miles with voltage dropping <10; truck will start charging. No CEL, unable to pull codes. Readers do not connect to my DLC

Yesterday I had a client call me and told me he was coming. Ok he drops his rig off here and I had to run back to town any ways so I dropped him back off and chased the two Fords in Riggins. Get down with my jobs and head into town to just double check before I head home and the CEL comes on. I got two codes off the odometer but my OBDII tool showed nothing, no readable errors even though the CEL is ON. P12xx code and P13xx code. Never bother to write them down. After just hooking up and hitting erase they are gone and never came back. I figured if they are true code they would return. Nope gone and never came back all day. Even my trip to McCall no issues. …

This post is for a friend who is having a knocking noise coming from mid section of eng. I say mid because it really does not sound like the lower end like you would hear on a gas motor, thats how I am compairing it because thats what I am used to. And never heard a diesel lower end knock just because they are so bullet proof.He was pulling a load up a slite hill and it started missing then blew out black smoke then started knocking so he pulled over and shut it off, towed it in. Still had good oil pressure when he shut it off So we cleaned up a set of old injectors I had and put it back together and the miss is gone but still has knock. This truck is stock but for bhaf …

Pulled some lightly used 50HP DDP injectors (<10K) from my truck. These were pricey as all DDP injectors are ($900K ) and they performed well. Is there a market to sell these?

Has anyone had any experience with hydrogen power cells?

after doing a head gasket job on my 1999 24v cummins i started my truck back up after getting everything back together, and i noticed there was a check engine light but didn’t think much of it. once i drove it i realized i had absolutely NO power and no throttle response after 1200 rpms. if i kept the pedal all the way down it would slowly get up to 2000rpms so that my auto trans would finally shift. after getting on a back road and giving her WOT i was able to get up to speed but it was a dog. i had no problems with my VP44before hand. also, when we had the code reader plugged in while driving it said i was only giving 40% throttle while i had it WOT. i have zero boost p…

I have been having some issues on with hard steering at idle, along with intermittent 4wd, and slow, or non responsive heater controls... I have been trying to track down vacuum leaks, but havent come up with anything, but a very tiny line with a break near the passenger side firewall... I am wondering if the pump may be bad? I did find a receipt in the truck for a new PS pump installed in 2015, and I know the guy only put about 2000 miles on the truck in all that time... could one have something to do with the other? are they a single unit? Thanks for the info, and help guys!

I know for a fact the internal voltage regulator is going in my 2001 with all my tests and new parts. Yes, the alternator is new,both batteries and the wires are good, as well as the grounds. I know the regulator is internal in the computer and are contemplating on doing a external modification to solve it, but are unsure. Has anybody done this mod to their truck and have any bad effects? I am looking at the kit at Alternatoparts..com and it looks pretty simple. The part number is ERCKFRM. I am thinking that this is why my automatic has been acting up. It all of a sudden started to stutter. I am sure the signal/voltage between the PCM and APPS is being effected some…

Just got done installing my Airdog 100. Like it so far, 18 psi at idle and 15 wot. Time to save up and then on to the next mod.

Truck is on its third lift pump. Have to pull start, to get started. What am I overlooking?

Most of the guys don't sell EV gauges any more, and thanks to a mouse, I need a new EV fuel pressure gauge and an EV2 pyro. DAP doesn't seem to carry EV1s anymore so they are out.It's more than fubar'ed wiring, the pyro is toast and the fuel pressure is in pieces. I was trying to jury rig it to get the trip done and ended up breaking the bourdon tube and housing on the fuel pressure gauge while removing the compression fitting nut.I was going to go with Vulcan, as they had the best prices and actually carried the EV line of gauges still. However, their shopping cart won't let me check out and seems to be having issues. Genos still carries EVs, but their prices are crazy..…

The problem I'm having is with the cruise ,on and I come to a hill it holds speed but coming down it will gain not correct . So I push the coast button and will not slow down I've also tried it on the flat and coast will not work .The accel botton and cancel does work . I'm think coast button is bad or the cruise servo? I have change the vaccum lines and I have no leaks thanks jim 1999 dodge ram 2500 quad cab 2wd 5.9 cummins stock 5 speed

So, I blew a wheel bearing apart driving down the road a few weeks back. I tore my front end apart because I figured why not rebuild it all now. I had a loose ball joint, needed brakes and u joints. I found my front pinion has a lot of play in it, up and down and in and out. I dropped the diff cover and the gears seem okay but the pinion just floats around. I bought a rebuilt kit (Axle shaft seals, bearings and shim kits, pinion seal), but Ive never torn into a differential this far. Seeing as my pinion is free to play move around, I'm assuming that the shims that are left are probably not gonna measure out right. Does anyone know a good starting point for shi…

New to the forum, been lurking awhile, however, I just took a trip to S. Cal and my truck acts like it is losing its prime. Checked for any visible fuel leaks, found none. Truck usually cranks a couple of times and fires right up but now if it sits very long, it turns over but won't start right away. I have noted more black smoke than usual in the past few days and a little loss of power at times. I have about 100K on rebuilt VP, no codes and about the same on injectors. Could this indicate an injector problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love this forum, very informative. Thanks.

Can anyone tell me what the length on my driveline should be from the front yoke to the back ujoint ? It's a y2k ctd auto 4x4 long bed.

I had a EZ about 5 years ago and it came with a boost elbow, the new Edge I just bought doesn't come with one. So should I install it or is there a reason to not run the boost elbow. Thanks