2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey guys, My truck has suddenly felt like it has lost a crazy amount of power. It is not as noticeable until the torque converter locks in overdrive and the truck feels like a turd. Also, when the truck is warm and idling in park it has an intermittent miss/popping sound,which goes away when put into gear. This sound has occurred for about 2 years now, so I haven't thought much of it. Would you guys think this would be the injectors finally wearing out or the VP getting ready to die? I have no codes. Shift points have also gotten noticeably longer, as it will ride 3rd gear forever now. I have pressure tested my Airdog 150 and everything comes out as spec since…

Just installed dragon flow 275hp injectors and custom built turbo. Truck runs the same! I tried to run a quad adr last summer did the same thing! no more power no smoke nothing. No codes either. A smarty will make some more power and little smoke before it builds boost. Anyone have any idea what my issue is?! I have owned this truck for 2 years and put 15k miles on it its got 136 now. It runs drives and never skips a beat BUT will not make any more power is this thing cursed or something?

I have a 1999 dodge ram 3500 2wd dually and i started hearing what i thought was a wheel bearing when i turn left. I jacked up the passenger side and checked for any play in the wheel and felt the tiniest bit of play in the bearing(or so i thought) i did the passenger side front inner and outer wheel bearings the inner bearing race had one pea sized spot that was all fuckered up like someone hit it with something by accident, the outer looked fine but replaced them both and the seal. Well after getting everything back together it seemed to still have that little bit of play so i looked further and found the top ball joint to move ever so slightly. Well after driving the n…

I am going to try bf 1212. I see that the rubber gasket is shorter than the fleetguards. Is the filter housing machined different ?

Ok here is my dilemma my truck had just turned 100,000k. I have been having trouble with the ABS when I go to pull in to a parking spot or roll up to a stop sign my brake pedal push back hard and I can’t stop. I was told it may be a sensor, my mechanic said it also could be ball joints or bearings too. I have had it disconnected the ABS for a long time. Now I need to put in ball joints, they are real bad, Should I just change out the hub too. I don’t have the extra money for this. Or should I just do the ball joints and see what happens. I guess my question is how long can you go on stock wheel bearing? The Hubs do come with an ABS sensor right? Thanks for you…

My brides 2001 2500 needs ball joints her 38" tires have destroyed her stock ones. I know the tires are wee big and the 7 inch lift doesn't help. We are ordering moog ball joints tonight and I'm wondering if any one has part #s for them. We see a lot of different part #s and want to make sure we are golden. It is a cummins and is a Dana 60 I am assuming.Any beter than moog? Thanks in advance guys :)Lance.....

Question, the banjo bolt on the back of the head 2002 dodge changed this to one with a one way value,. Was this to help with the fuel leaking back with truck sitting nose up hill?

What size is the banjo bolt on the supply line at IP on a 1998.5 24v? I know I can take it off and measure, but I want to get a push lock banjo bolt for 1/2" lines and they show 2 different sizes.

So being underway with the Ppump swap. i have Scheid Lines and a D&J grid heater delete spacer that is also a 1/2 inch taller and my monster ram hits on my lines and doesn’t go all the way on the spacer. Its almost if I need a 1 inch spacer over stock and it will clear maybe, but I don’t want to be to tall so the hood doesn’t close ? Has anyone ran into this and what have you used to clear everything? (Lines,hood,ect) This is on a 2001.5 24v pic includes is what I’m talking about.

The below letter was sent to BANKS... anyone have this problem? I bought my 98.5 Cummins and the gauges were not working, I call Larry he said ,we need to re-flash the Ottomind so i sent it next day air to you. Got a call from Joe saying they wanted to test it in your steak bed. It all check out Great and sent back to me...I installed it to find out that I still have no working gauges...I have a red LED then key on green, when I start and I never get the red LED...I called and talked to James and Jim and Joe many times Jim was going the get with James and I never heard back so I called and talked to Joe, We tried changing the gauge wiring harness...That didn't work... So …

I was wanting a set of batteries for my farm tractor ...and. I thought it would be a good idea to buy a new set for my truck and use the good ones already in it to put in the tractor. I told the Interstate guy that I wanted group 31...he said no way will they fit. Sold me group 27s. Same rating as the ones in the truck although a bit smaller. WOW...I thought the ones that I took out of the truck were good, not so much compared to the new ones. It sounds like that air starter in the other thread. The tractor will start with the ones from the truck but not as good as it should. Warm weather is coming and things will be better for the tractor then. Regards Chris

Just some background:I don't drive my 24v much anymore. 200,534 miles on the clock. In the last seven years I've only put 5200 miles on it. I last drove it three weeks ago and all was fine. This morning I turned the switch to on position and all the bells and such worked just fine. When I bumped the starter it would not turn over, just kind of drug but not fast enough to start. I cleaned the battrey cables and battrey posts, connected the battrey charger and It read "FULL CHARGE" so I tried to start it again but she would not go.I desided to drive my 97 GMC Sonoma which has not been started for a year, It was dead. I connected the battrey charger and It read "FULL CHAR…

ok - don't laugh How do you tell a battery really requires changing and won't hold a charge anymore. To be honest - I don't know Along with my stalling issue - my starting seems to be harder - and it seems like a battery. I added 2 stroke (for general reasons) and drove for like 20 miles to let the alternator charge her up. Got back ..... and turned engine off with lights still on. Saw the voltage needle drop pretty quick from 14V to around 10V. The battery says 10/07 .......... no other indicators If I need a battery - how to tell if 1 or 2 ? - and any recommendations on where what to buy ? --- Update to the previous post... Foun…

I am replacing the batteries in my truck (they were very dead when I tried leaving for work this morning). I also need to replace the terminals as they are pretty beat up. I don't have a wire gauge tool but by my measurements based on copper diameter tell me the positive crossover between the batteries as well as both negative cables are 3/0 (000) and the positive between the starter and driver side battery is 5/0 (00000). Can anyone confirm this? That starter cable is certainly large! I'm having a bit of a time even finding a terminal that size. I'm all ears if you've got suggestions. Thank you very much!

The lead part on battery that goes to battery broke, I cut cable back about an inch. I dont see any visible corrosion. (Drop voltage test?) When I put one end of the now cut off lead lug i lose 1 volt at other end. And with volt meter i can get a beep doing a continuity test. Any suggestions for a proper elec test in order to ensure stock cable good or not. Thanks

Whenever inunhooked my battery cables it reset my odometer. I read that your supposed to unhook negative first is that why but t did that?

Time to replace all of my battery cables. So my question is where is the best place to buy new battery cables? If I can find someone around here that makes cables what is a good size of cable to replace mine with? I dont like replacement ends so I want all new cables. Thank you in advance.

Is it really necessary to replace the heavy duty battery cables on our Cummins or would the regular size gas powered truck battery cables work the same as they are also twelve volt ? I ask because on my 1990 Cummins I replaced the ground cable with a gas powered cable and everything worked fine. Just a thought.

(Forgive me if I asked this before) Make any difference which battery I charge up to?

My batteries have been disconnected for about a year. Anything special I have to do before I can start it? Neighbor up the way asked if I had my beast running yet. Batteries have been disconnected so long of time he thinks I need to adjust or reset something before I can start it or run right? I asked him what the something was and I think he said APS or ATS? Guess I screwed up again...what do I need to do. Thanks