2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Does anybody have opinions on Lucas 75w-140 synthetic gear oil?

I have a 1976 F250 that i have swapped a 2001 24v cummins into. I have built several different standalone harnesses for other engines (7.3 powerstroke, 6.0 powerstroke) but this is my first VP44 24v. I have also swapped many 12v cummins into Fords. Im looking for ideas to solve a problem im having. I have a complete 2001 dodge donor truck. Im using the PCM from the dodge to control the 47re. Everything is in the truck and wired but the engine will crank only and will not allow the vp44 to fire. I can do the "hot wire" test on the vp44 and it will start and idle. Also i can unplug the dodge PCM, (cummins ecm and vp44 wiring connected) and the engine will start and run, an…

5.9 Cummins 47RE No previous issues. Went out one morning, started the truck and trans was in 3rd gear limp mode. No low gear, No OD So I jumped the gun without diagnosing and just went ahead and Replaced the typical governor pressure sensor and transducer, however issue remained the same. Started testing wires and found pin#1 on transmission connector does not have 12v with engine running like it should. Thought problem was PCM. So I sent it out to be rebuilt and they tested it and said it was good and had no issues when testing it. I Re-installed PCM and issue remained the same. I tried a jumper wire in the distribution …

Been having a noise randomly. Drained the T- case today and found this. Any idea wear it could be before I split it. It's coming apart either way, just not sure it'll be tonight.

So, 2000 RAM, 5 speed. I have bypassed the signal wire and jumped to 12v and engine starts, I have checked all fuses and relays (to best of my knowledge), I also jumpered the clutch safety switch which did nothing.... Wait to start light still works as expected, what would keep the 12v signal from making it to the starter? I know I can just put a push button in to bypass but I want to make sure this isn't a bigger picture issue. This literally popped up outa no where, stopped at a store, and when I got back in it wouldn't crank, I had to roll start it, luckily was on a slight slope. Thanks in advance. Tim

Quick question, with the 8pin connector unplugged at the transmission, will the pin 1 (red wire) still have power, or will the pcm shut off the relay because it’s not getting reading from pressure sensors, etc?

First off I hope everyone had a merry Christmas! Mine was eventful blowing the head gasket on the truck, and then finding out the head had cracks in 5 of the 6 cyls of the head. Replaced head and now it runs great. No external leaks but it sucks air and looses prime within a few hours. being this weekend was Christmas/eve I couldn’t get injector orings or connector tube orings. Could these be a source of the air leak? I changed the banjo washers on the back of the head with no results.

I have an xzillarator model DXZ01s that has had the map sensors cut off and im trying to figure out how to wire the new plugs i ordered for it. The harness has 2 wires coming out of it and im trying to find out how to wire the male and female map sensor plug. I bought an ls tps extension plug and it has the male and female plugs that i need wired to each other so ill cut that in half and have three wires coming out of each plug i know one wire is a jumper but i need to figure out which one will be the jumper and then what to do with the rest of the 4 wires

Getting ready to get a 30' bumper pull and ProPride hitch to tow with the rig in my signature. The PacBrake electronics tie into the lock up wire at the ECM to activate the exh brake when the unit is turned on and foot comes off the accelerator. If I wanted to add a TC lock up switch so that I can lock up in 2nd gear on up (Dynamic VB modded to allow that) for towing slow up steep inclines, can I do this without inhibiting the use of the exh brake? I'm assuming that I'd leave the PacBrake switch "off" and use the lock up switch as needed climbing hills. Then when going downhill, turn the TC lock switch "off" and turn on the PacBrake. Anyone have any wiring info on this? S…

I've had this truck for many years. Drove it 5 hours from Houston and use it on the farm only. Always had the no bus code. Starts, runs no issues at all. At first I looked into it. Speedometer also wouldn't read. I replaced the speed sensor and followed the wiring and connections back to the dash. Now speedometer displays 15mph when not moving.. It does move but never bothered to compare speed to actual. It does also have a parasitic drain on the batteries if left connected. Previously I had followed wiring and connections and no change to the no bus. No other lights or other issues known. If he batteries are week the it won't start and the 4wd l…

Trying to track down the test procedures for the ess (engine speed sensor) on a 99 ram 24v. I’m assuming it would be in hertz? I’m trying to see if my ecm is correctly giving this reading to the pcm.

1998.5 dodge ram 2500 24v leaks tons of oil out of the breather tube, truck runs great and gets great fuel economy, oil does not smell like diesel and doesn't gain oil, it loses a ton, so far in 2500 miles I've lost almost 3 gallons, making sure to keep it up. Very odd considering how well the truck runs. I've seen someplace it could be something to do with vacuum leaks? Any insight?

I had some nasty rust on the tailgate. Idaho is using really corrosive salt this year. This is not to be perfect bit as a stop gap till I am done with my chemo or when I have the funds for the body work. Thanks to Mark he's got a nice palm sander and good assortment of sanding disc's. There where two spots where 40 grit grinder was used to dig at the deep pitted metal. Then using black primer to match the gloss black I bought today. Help bond the new paint to the metal and hopefully stop the rusting process. I've got a few spots on the body where rust blisters are starting and need the blister broke open metal cleaned up …

I've been around the forums with this truck for years. I'm a DIY gal with minimal mechanical knowledge, enough to be dangerous, enough to get in trouble. We've been plagued by some gremlins for many years and recently we purchased a friend's very well maintained 3rd gen with 77,000 miles and no known gremlins (yet). I loved our 2nd gen, been a great truck that has seen better days cosmetically, and I think it will make a nice pickup for someone who likes really loud trucks and doesn't mind doing some work to bring her back to her glory days cosmetically. However, I feel to sell her as is would be a big financial hit because of the following issues. …

I know the moon is 238,000 miles roughly to the moon. If you double that is 476,000 miles to the moon and back. Now time to load Beast back up and head back to the moon. Again another 238,000 miles.

Does anyone have the instructions to have high idle controlled off of 3 toggle switches and some resistors? They used to be available here but they have been taken down.

I've been wanting to get the high idle enabled in my truck, dealer wants more than I think it's worth so next option is to get a smarty and plug it in which will enable this feature. I know DAP will "rent" them out for this but you basically buy it then return it which ties up $650+ until they get it back. Figured I'd ask if someone has one I could borrow to get this enabled.

A month ago I started having surging and idling problems. I checked all the usual, fuel filters, pressure and everything in check. At hwy speed you can feel it surging in fact at all speeds of course at over 2500 rpm not so much. If you set the cruise control it goes away. I can watch my throttle on my adrenaline and its fluctuating up and down when using accelerator. At idle at a stop it will go as low as 500 rpm and Ive watched it climb as high as 1800 rpm. The apps was about a year old so I thought that had to be it.Put a new one in and roll along here for a bout 100 plus miles and the new apps starts doing the same thing again. No codes except the grid heaters which i…

And the premium prices being paid to get them

So I have a FASS titanium series waiting at the house for me to get home and do the install. What’s the consensus on suction? Draw straw or sump?