2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Has anyone tried this? Just curious, says 1 oz to 25 gal. For southern eng's in hot weather.

Been working this issue the last few months between work trips, finally home long enough to actually dive into it. Think I have it narrowed down, but would like bounce ideas off the brain collective. issue is if the truck is left longer than 12hrs you’ll have to cycle the lift pump for a bit to start first hit of the key. If not it’ll crank 5-10 seconds before start. Tried it all, on hills nose up/down and flat ground also. Truck has new fuel lines, new rubber seals at fittings, new injectors and seals, all fittings are tight with no leaks. the only “leak” I’ve noticed on the truck is the water drain on the factory fuel bowl, not much but eno…

So I just got my gauges switch over from my 01 truck to the 02 truck both are 3500, I need to change all my truck info those two trucks are gone in my sig. But anyhow I have a snubber and a needle valve in the 1/2 in fuel line going to the vp44. Well when I first fired it up fuel pressure was 20psi and it stayed there for 30 seconds or so and went down to 17.50 and pretty much stays in that area. I took the truck down the road for 2 miles and back and on my way back it climbs to 20-21 psi and has stayed there, shut it off fired it back up and still 20psi. I removed the spring airdog150 pump came with and put the 17psi spring in. Im wondering is spring in a bind or is my g…

Hey all, I am back again sadly for more problems. I'll tell the backstory and all symptoms I'm having. Was headed home yesterday and check gauges light came on. Had oil pressure but noticed voltage was not reading. Parked the truck and shut it off and saw there was fluid leaking in front of the engine. Popped the hood and the belt came off and I assume it knocked the catch can (tbh I haven't emptied it and I've owned the truck for over a year) Noticed there was fuel in the fluid (oil) leaking and I smelled raw diesel. Checked the oil and there was sure as **** fuel and a damn good amount. Forums seems to say it's either injectors, crossover tubes, or the seal …

Hey guys new member here! Buckle up this is gonna be a long one. Lol I have a 99 3500 with a 6speed swap. Bought the truck not running from an auction. First thing I noticed when trying to get running was it had a lift pump in the tank that looked factory ran never seen that before. Got truck running by just replacing batteries. Install a fass 100. My issue is now truck runs and idles good but I have no tach , power loss , and extended crank sometimes and a crank sensor fault. Replace crank sensor 3 times no change. So my thought was tone ring so I pulled starter and sensor to try and inspect tone ring. Here’s where it gets weird. I don’t see a tone ring? All I see throug…

I was curious if anyone on here has done the reverse and went from a manual to an auto trans? In my 99 Cummins 4x4 that I used to have a few years ago, I swapped out the auto trans and installed a rebuilt NV4500 that my buddy and I overhauled and installed a brand new South Bend single disk clutch. I kept my ECM and PCM and installed a manual trans stock tune file from Mads with a Smarty and it ran great after that. At the time my left knee had stage 4 arthritis in it and it wasn't liking a stiff clutch at all, so I found a friend that had a verified rebuilt auto trans with paperwork from Baker City, and we spent a long day swapping transmissions and input sha…

Anyone have an aftermarket supplier of the lines that connect to the side of the HE (coolant lines/metal tubes)? I am going to keep the HE in place but want to replace these lines as they are 21 years old and starting to leak. Ideas? Bruce

Hey guys, My son has a 2001 Ram 2500 and the two lines (trans. lines) that come off the bottom seep/leak consistently. I had the idea of just removing it altogether but wanted to see what everyone's opinion is. He does not haul anything and just drives it to and from work. My idea was to just plug the two bottom ports (trans. ports) with NPT fittings and take the line from the front of the transmission to the transmission cooler. The output of the transmission cooler to the rear port on the transmission. Seems to be the easiest route and not having to mess with the coolant lines from the Heat Exchanger. He has new flexible AN lines, but just…

So yesterday made a trip to my dad's house to help him with a couple things. When I walked to my truck to leave I noticed some coolant on the driveway. Checked the levels before I left and it was still full so I'll check it hot when I get home. I found a Crack in the plastic tank on the driver's side behind the intercooler. (See pic) Perfect timing right before Christmas and all. You know, when everyone is a little tight on funds because of gift buying and such. My question is: has anyone here used the JB weld radiator repair kit for plastic? I'm on the fence about doing a repair like that for now or just bite the bullet and buy new. RA has 1 for $163 plus sh…

While my Quad was down and I was running around on the stock tuning, I noticed I couldn't build more than 20psi of boost or exceed 900* on the EGT gauge. I figured the stock turbo was waste gated to 20psi and that's why it didn't make more. I know the S300 will make 30+, does the truck defuel when it senses the boost level to keep it from rising?

Started my truck on site the other day to come home and within a minute there's a puddle of coolant on the floor, rad leaking on the drivers side crimped edge, luckily it stops as it gets warm so still able to use the truck, I've been looking for a radiator and ouch ! Several options Rock is $422 to my door for a standard rad with crimped tanks, guess it's chinese this is for a purchase price of just over $100 Mishimoto on ebag $1151 to my door, no crimped tanks and MIUSA, purchase price is $750 Other option is I do have a new old stock Northern Radiator ally rad with the inlet/outlet on the correct sides but no trans cooler, would need …

ok here we go, I completed my swap about a year ago and everything worked great for about 9 months. all of the sudden one day im driving down the road and the van just stops!. it was like someone reached over and shut the thing off. after getting it towed home i followed the diagnostic procedure for the vp44 and after hooking power and ground directly to it i found that it was indeed dead and would not fire. so simple enough i order a new (reman) vp from a local parts dealer and when it shows up im immediately put off by it. it had silicone caked on the harness where it goes into the psg and had dirty finger prints as well as dirty hash marks where the fasteners hold…

Hello, I have an 01 24v 4x4. I took it on a 200 miles round trip last week. Within 10 miles of the destination I heard a noticeable loud squeal/screech intermediately at around 50 mph. I thought is could be my front pumpkin running low due to a drivers side leak, filled it up and drove home. On way home the noise was still in and out, towards the end it started to become more constant but only above 2-3rd gear. Now when I drive its is constant above 2nd gear at pretty much any speed. It sounds like it could be from the transmission but I was thinking more wheel bearing/ joint. I will jack up rear and update tomorrow. What I have done New driver/passenger side w…

Hi Everyone, I've been lurking on here for a while and I finally ran into an issue that I haven't been able to solve using previous forums. I put a new crank position sensor in a few months ago after I had the truck not start on me at the dump. I got it going with some spray I know it's not good to do, but I disconnected the power to the grid heater had my wife crank while I squirted into the turbo. The truck ran great for three months or so when it developed a random hiccup. This brief hesitation is totally random. Last summer I put on a Fass fuel system with a homebrew drawstraw and a Special X VP44 from Blue Chip. I don't think that this is a fuelin…

Have you ever had the throttle linkage where the APPS is connected to, ever get stuck (frozen) in -4° weather? Mine did last night at my friend's house. His house is 3 miles away from mine. I started out in 2nd gear and couldn't push the pedal down because the linkage was stuck at idle. But halfway between his house and home I was able to get it to move a little which brought me up to 2,300 rpm, so I shifted into 3rd gear and drove home at that rpm. When I got it in my shop within a couple minutes it thawed out and was normal again. I wonder if it did it because my pickup doesn't have the plastic APPS cover on it? I have a brand new T…

Hi guys, first post! I have a 2000 Ram 2500 5 speed. Runs great for the first 5 minutes in the mornings then she's having what I would say a miss at idle and rpm Fluctuating between 800 to 1000rpm. Once I hit the throttle the rpms stay at about 1100 and will not come down until it's in gear. Also when I drive it, and coming to a stop, the idle is high and makes it harder to stop. I had a map sensor code and got that cleared. I changed injectors (oem) thinking that was the issue but nope still there and does the same thing. I did replace crank & cam sensors. (I was playing the guessing game) I did notice when unplugging the cam sensor that no check engine …

My 2000 1Tn, 4wd, auto with 340K just started giving me the above engine code. Looking it up, it stands for TURBOCHARGER BYPASS VALVE OPEN. Does anyone have experience addressing this problem? Where do I start to identify where the problem is? (Please don't say "Turbocharger" ) Is this likely a minor problem (adjustment or small part replacement) or is this likely a major problem (replacement of the turbo)? What are the driving symptoms of this problem code? The truck starts and seems to drive OK even with this check engine light on. (I am not getting any other stored OBDII codes.) Any help on how to address the problem would be appreciated. To Moparma…

I purchased a set of 75 hp injectors the DDP-ISB75 I don't know how that relates to the tunning of the Quadzilla adrenalin. are they a 7.010 7.012 or something else? Any guidance would be appreciated as I am new to the tunning world.

Replaced wheel bearing, seals, calipers and pads and thought while I'm there I'll replace pinion bearing and seal. It is froze on there, we pryed on it, hit shaft with dead blow hammer and we just put the seal in and and said run it. Any tips on getting it out short of stripping rear end?

Hey guys, So I'm back to work after a knee injury, and I walked out of Wawa and saw green coolant under the truck. After some quick diagnosis I determined the radiator is leaking from the crimp joint on the driver's side. I know a new radiator is in my future, but what about the rest of the Cooling System. I'm talking about the baby hoses on the passenger side that run under the turbo charger, the heat exchanger etc. I'm not 100% sure how far I want to go, but I have a water pump on the shelf, and a new belt. I might as well swap out other stuff that looks like it will be on its way. When I got the truck the coolant we…