2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is an odd circumstance I am experiencing. After I refuel (usually before 1/2 tank) sometimes, perhaps one in 4 fuel stops, right after, I get a "stumble" on acceleration. Any ideas on this? Also, I dont trust the lift pump, but dont want to re-enginner the truck. Thoughts on the FASS DDRP 02 direct replacement pump?Thanks!

Ok time for another question!Does anyone have a link, or information on the process of checking the waste gate as a routine thing?How do yo guys check your waste gate? Is there a step by step method? or what?It doesn't seem logical to go around prying on things, or the such.There must be away to exercise it to get it to open and close.Information will be appreciated.

02 dodge 4x4 - Truck seems to unlock converter from around 50 to 60 mph. RPMs go up and down about 200 rpms. At times the throttle can make no difference if it is on the floor or not, the engine stays at the same rpm. We replaced the apps about 6 months ago and it seemed to cure the problem, but it is back.

Well gang... I figure I better get the coolant change before winter. So I desided to pull the radiator and inspect it and was surprised to find the face plugged with mud and dirt... Not greasy grime like stock crankcase vents but just mud on the lower part... So I gave everything a good cleaning... Close up... The radiator... Flushing the block... Appearance of the block currently at 173K The intercooler face. Appearance of the block at 100K... Inside the radiator... Flushing...

Does anyone have a short throw shifter on there NV5600? If so was it worth the money?

Today my truck started bucking when I was driving. I know my lift pump was weak but I've been strapped for cash so I haven't changed it yet but now I think I'm paying for it. Just wondering if the bucking is characteristic of a blown VP44? Also when I was driving I noticed that when I curved to the left it really lost power and ran rough but when I curved right it ran much better, any ideas on this?

Hey guys, someone posted this on the cummins forum and I wanted to let ya'll know about it too if you hadnt already seen it there. I know Mike has the original scangauge and I believe this works the same way but its cheaper. I was close to ordering a scangauge but went ahead and got one of these. They are on sale through Sunday, I havnt got mine yet but will let ya know how it works (if it works on these Jap cars) when I get it. http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm

Out of shear curiosity, how long and/or how many miles do you go before changing your oil? What oil do you use? Myself I use Amsoil 15w40 and generally go about 6000 miles before I change it. I'm still programmed to change oil every 3000 miles so it just feels wrong to even go that long! I've read where some people go a whole year between oil changes and so I would just like to start a poll and see what guys are doing! Thanks!

There is a lot of misinformation out there about oils, specifically oils marketed as "synthetic." I'd like to clear the air a bit and explain some of the types of oils, how they differ in production processes, and how they differ in performance characteristics. This will not only give you factual information that is helpful for understanding all oils currently on the market, but will also explain in detail how a Group IV PAO product like AMSOIL will yield a higher degree of protection and performance, especially in modern and modified turbo diesel engines. Thank you for reading. -Chuck Base Oil Categories The American Petroleum Institute (API) develop…

Some interesting stuff on milage for diesels http://cumminsengines.com/assets/pdf/MPG_Secrets_Whitepaper.pdf

Go to this site, and sign up for free diesel books http://www.myholsetturbo.com/

Well am I really surprised! No.Ok now I will tell you.I wrote email to chevron company asking their opinion on adding two cycle oil to my truck for lubrication.The response was: In our opinion never add oil to diesel fuel to lubricate your injecion pump!Use injector cleaner!What! injector cleaner in my fuel! I don't think so!Well I guess they have idiots working everywhere:banghead:

Got some questions about what my truck is doing over the past six month it has been to five different states and I have put on about twenty five thousand miles right around 270,000 ish only about half the time I was pulling a loaded 16ft enclosed trailer weight aprox 6000 so nothing to strenuous but over the past six month I have been noticing more of a buring oil smell in the cab its been using more oil and the biggest two concerns are when its at operating temperature 210ish my blowby tube is steaming and it drips a black cool very thin liquid about one drip every 10 to 15 seconds I have asked around and we came up with fuel and engine oil but why its cool to the touch …

Okay! as I was taking my nap today ( Yeah you will get to that point one day ) I was thinking about my post on the fender repair.One of the main things is because the fender is made of such cheap plastic -- I know most things seem to be that way now --- there is something that could be used to give more strength to the inside of a break.GOOP! Yup GOOP. If you haven't heard of it go buy a tube and make some expeirement with it.Example! A freind has a new nissan cube and he wanted to stick a GPS unit to his dash because the item that came with it would not stick to the plastic on his dash.So I mentioned GOOP and we got some. Man that stuff sticks to anything. I use it to a…

OK, so I have my ideas about what this might be. Anxious to hear your thoughts.A few times now I have turned the key to start the truck and let go before the engine catches. So, I just twist the key for too short a time and the engine doesn't catch. Then I try again and it will crank and crank and now start for almost exactly an hour. Then it starts right up.There is an aftermarket alarm on the truck and I have no remote. Not sure if it ever had one. I cannot smell fuel in the tail pipe while cranking; so, no fuel is being delivered. When it does start, I will fire right up with just a small puff of black smoke at the tailpipe. So I don't think there is a ton of fuel flow…

I read that using the block heater costs about $1.50 a day.I plug mine in all winter here and never notice any change on my bill. Guess that's cuz we have cheap rates, and man I am thankfull for that

i need to install a fuel pressure gauge when my truck s running again. I have seen alot of them on the internet with price varying alot. which is the best to have, mechanical or electric? or is there any differance in the performance of either? I do like the one that mopar has with the green range on it but can't seem to find that gauge anywhere. I can hook up either i just want to do it once and not twice. any help is appreciated.

I have been looking around at all the million ways you can do this and I came up with another way that seems pretty spiffy. Here's what I have come up with. First off, in the cab you need 3 single pole single throw switches, which are the simplest form of a switch you can get. Here is a pic of one. You install all of those, and hook one side of each switch to a good ground inside the cab. Now run the other side of each switch all outside into the engine bay. One switch will fool the coolant, one switch will turn on high idle, and one will turn on 3 cyl idle. The positive side of each relay is "always on" positive, so you can jumper from one relay …

Ok I got new ecm and power is back and pulls great, but it still has a miss at idle, I dont know if it has miss a cruise speed or not but I do know if you put a bypass box on it it runs just fine. So where to look? I am thinking wire harness?Is wire harness two peace or single harness, in other words am I dealing with a night mare to do my self?

Alright, kinda wish I would have taken more pictures, but I was hot and ready to get it back on the road... So here is what I got, perhaps this will help someone looking to replace their own. First things first. Go out and take a look at your Dana 80. Now, I don't have a photo of the other type for comparison, but there are actually two different Dana 80's in the 2001 and 2002 model year. This is important to get the proper seal. For my axle, in a 2001.5 Ram 3500 quad cab 2wd diesel 6 speed, it has the non flanged yoke and the double stepped down pinion shaft seal. Part number is 5015618AB from Dodge... Now the other seal (for the flanged yoke) is 5073944AA…