2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I have been getting an intermittent no bus message since July or so. It had went away until my hunting trip last week. When it happens I of course lose all my gauges, but I can pick them up on my ScanGage2 through the OBD port. It seemed to happen on rough road so out of curiousity I tapped, or more like punched the cluster and everything came back up. This happened a few times. Since I can read speed, tach, etc. through the OBD port when the dash goes blank is it safe to assume that the problem is a loose cluster? Just trying to narrow it down before I start the long drawn out testing process.

Hello as the title states my tach will not read past 2000-2200 RPMs. It seems like it ready correctly while cruising and idle but stops right around 2-2.2k. I went ahead and gave it full throttle with my quad logging at it shows it actually going to ~3200RPM with the audio sound of it hitting the limiter. Is my gauge cluster just bad or am I looking at something more in-depth? In my long quest of fixing this truck i'll be replacing the VP and injectors in the upcoming week and want to ensure I don't have a ECM/PCM issue possibly. I've considered removing them and having them sent off for testing but I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes that i'm aw…

01/5pd/4x Put the pedal down to stop the other day, got rewarded with no decel, some jingling and a stiff pedal, was able to feather it a bit until the pedal depressed and stopped me. Took my wheels off and looked to find a missing pad clip, pad was loose figured it to be my issue so I did pads and rotors since I was in there anyway. 3 days of normal braking no issue, today it rained a bit, I had about 40 mins of driving in everything pointed to normalcy until...same issue along with a butt puckeringly close call on the poor Accord in front of me. ABS/Brake lights flashed on and off a few times, I limped home. As I was backing into my driveway I noticed my wheel was …

I've been tracking down a noise from the rear end of my truck. It seems like it gets worse the heavier I load the bed. I don't know how it took me this long to find this, but I'm guessing it's a redneck modification on a fifth wheel hitch mount. I'm assuming my "squeak" is the upper spring hitting the piece of angle iron. The other side is NOT like this. Has anyone else seen anything like this? Pictures are drivers side, looking aft.

A buddy found this for me, a second gen dually bed with fenders, tail gate and rear bumper. Bed was Rino lined, under side has very little rust at all. Came with the tail lights also but they were broken. I did scavenge the led bulbs though. So, truth. Was $400 a decent deal for this? Next, how to proceed, should I get the under side blasted to remove any rust then undercoat? Any other/better ideas? I'm in north west ohio so we do get salt snow and ice here. Want to do what I can to make it last before I think about swapping them. Check out the pics. Thanks! Oh, the bed also has aluminum diamond plate rail protectors and a camo tail gate c…

I swiped a powersaw for the whole outfit. I don't remember seeing a full hydraulic plow on a Cummins. This was on a 96 with a 318. Any chance I can put that pulley on the crankshaft of the cummins, providing I have the right bolt. Its just for my own use in my driveway. I have a skidloader but its tired and has no heat. The truck should be fine in my driveway. Other than needing a coat of paint the plow is good to go. Chris

I recently bought a 24v and am trying to keep up with maintenance as well as possible. so i drained the water from my fuel filter and obviously lost three prime there was no solution in the manual or th parts and troubleshooting as to how to prime the motor. i tried to turn the key to the on position several times before cranking to see if it would self prime but it only continued to crank. i searched google and forums for the answer but could only find the solution of self priming. this did work for me however it took many many tries and almost an hour for my truck to start i know that the ignition process of diesel motors can cause a significant wear and tear. is ther…

Today I replaced both front rotors,pads,and calipers. I also replaced my passenger side flex break line. Me and a buddy bled the breaks and I still do not have a break pedal. Break light and ABS lights have came on as a result of this. Pedal will get semi hard with the truck off but with the truck in the pedal will go to the floor.

My 97, when I got the truck, was missing the OHC. The plug is there, but the console is not. It has the black plug that has about 8-10 wires. I bought a console from a member here, and it's only a three wire connector. Apparently my SLT originally had the temp/compass, etc.. THis one I bought has a red plug, with courtesy lights and a pocket, only.I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to wire this one in.. I know ground and constant, but the third wire is for the door-open circuit to trigger the domelight and such. When the door is open, the yellow wire (truck-side) has no voltage. Close the door and the yellow wire gains 12V.I'm a tad confused, for some reas…

Just bought a new scan gauge and I was wondering what should I put for the cutoff setting number. Default is 24 is this correct?

Has anyone replaced the dash cap with a new one? On my 96, which should be the same for 94 - 97, How do you get to the screws on passenger side and the defrost vents? No problem removing the old dash because it was so broken I could just about reach in from the top. However to install the new dash there are screws on the passenger side and on the defrost vents that have to be screwed in from the windshield side of the dash. I understand that I need to unbolt and tilt the entire dash toward the seat but it still looks near impossible to reach these screws. Any experienced advice?

Time to change diff oil. I tow a 9,000 trailer most of the time. Going to get magnetic plug. Also any benefits of changing to Royal Purple 75w-140? I believe it is Dana 70. 4.10 gearing. Limited slip. Thanks

I have an issue that you small electronics guys may have a solution for. When I turn off my car stereo, there is a delay for the screen to shut down. Once the stereo turns off there is a loud thud from the subwoofers connected to an amp. I have reduced the remote turn on wire from 12v to 5v via (2) 1k ohm resistors and still does it. My thinking is that there it a voltage spike when the radio turns off causing the problem. What would I use to catch this or how would I "filter" this spike?

Hi everyone. Need some opinions on my ABS issue. Some history. The chip in my abs module went bad. Sent it to rebuilder in the states. Got it back installed and worked good for a month. Started getting random ccd bus errors. Disconnected abs module and all guages came back. I know the issue is abs related. Ohm test abs sensors all looks good. Is it possibly a bad soldier in the board? Any suggestions?

I made a trip to Eugene Oregon to my Dad's place, while here we dicided to replace my ball joints. Well we cannot get the hub lose. We have tried tuning steering wheel with socket and extension on back of hub and it kept slipping off and nothing moved. Do not want mess up my bearings. Can anyone steer us the right way. Looked for hours on net not finding what I need. Thanks for any advise offered.

put on the ac blows cold but from defrost its stuck up on the defrost any thouths before i start chasing this around i figure its a vacum hose or something not flipping the doors were they need to be but thats why i love this site maybe someone can save me some time and headaches.

so I have an oprotunity, likley only today, to get a hold of the parts below for my project, Way better condiditon than all the rusty parts I have. Quick thoughts before 11AM CST? this is comeing off a 96 3500, looking to put on a 94 2500 frame. Dana 60 front axle 3:54 gears, fully rebuilt last summer, every single part was replaced, all lifetime warranty, all 4 balljoints, every tie rod, track bar, axle joints, steering stabilizer shock, drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads, rubber brake hoses. And alignment, $500 in new parts, $800 takes the complete axle. Dana 80 Dually axle 3:54 gears, with locker. Drum brakes. $450.

What is the proper heat reading on the heat guage. Mine says 189 to 190. Is this OK? Thanks. I`m an ole converted Ford guy and that reading would be high.. Tx.

So my seat swap was a success, but not without a hiccup. The drivers seatbelt will unwind about half an inch and lock. That's as far as it will go! I tried shaking it, beat on the back of the seat, and stuck my pinky finger in trying to find a release. Any ideas on what to try next?

Hey guys I’m looking at replacing all the vacuum lines with some newer hose to prevent any more breaks or cracking. Does any know know if a kit or how much of the different sizes I would need todo so? Working on my 99 24V