2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I figured these are worth they're own thread. I've just recently stumbled onto them. They're by fab series. I'll mainly post pictures and links between my spelling and phone auto correct pictures and links will explain best. I'm excited to call and get prices. Can build some super beefy steering with these offset links. http://www.fabseries.com/ Lots of stud tapers to choose from

I cannot find in the article about the added wire(s) from battery to battery. It was in the last few paragraphs, but the article has been cut short and doesn't include the battery equalization cables we are to add between batteries. In a discussion with W-T yesterday they are very important. It is supposed to be in the archives if anyone knows.

Who's the audio specialist? So my stereo speakers started months ago cutting out intermittently sometimes the right sometimes the left sometimes the little tweeter in the A post. Back always worked. But now I'm down to just having a left door speaker. Question is it the stereo, speakers or amplifiers hooked to the speakers? Has anyone had this problem? I thought I'd put in a new stereo but then it had no sound then I found out about the whole amplifier thing powering up I don't want to wire it up correctly if the amps are bad in the first place. So now I'm back trying to figure out what's not working in the first place.

Good Evening Everyone, I'm new to the site but have been reading up on some great articles and opinions for some time now. I'm in the process of updating and replacing the heater core and AC guts under the dash, along with a new LMC dash top (yeah i know, everyone's wallet just cringed a little). For all but a short time, I know how its been taken care of since new. So, i'm willing to replace whats needed and upgrade what should be. The AC has been leaking in there for some time and i figured a new heater core is just common sense when everything is apart. My questions are, has anyone needed to replace the blend doors due to breakage (age, not mishaps wit…

I was working on my 96 Ram this past weekend and stepped the parking brake down. I applied it to where it normally is and then decided to make it a little tighter. When I did that it went all the way to the floor it didn't release like it normally does. I checked the cables today none of them are broken. Took the rear drums off and had some one step on the parking pedal everything moved normally in both drums. Is there anything in the pedal mechanism that can break. I'll adjust the rear brakes tomorrow and see if that helps. Anyone have any suggestions? Bob

A/C blows the receiver/dryer off the evaporator connection, I thought at first it was building to mush high side pressure due to fan clutch seized and condenser beat up not getting good air flow, but those have been replaced. Just went to start truck after it sat for 20-30 minutes and it blew again, when it's working air blows ice cold. Was going to put gauges on while not running to see if pressure equalized between high/low sides but that will have to wait.

After riding around formthe past 2 or 3 years with this broken pos, i got upgrade. I think I gotm2 more horse power out of it. I went to the salvage yard Saturday. A long put off trip.

We have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe at the fire department as a spare vehicle. The other day on shift I had to drive to a class. Well low and behold i get in realise the front bucket seats have the seatbelts built into them like our 2nd gens. So now we have another option for seats. I'm sure brackets can be fabbed. Heres a pic of 05 Tahoe front seat.

Finally have my 5" how I like it. Exhaust all scavenged off a kenworth w800 Ohhh man I'm really liking the 3rd gen wheels I have two sets. Thinking about powdercoating one set mat black or BMW silver. I might look into a set of street tires toyo used to have a m54 that was heavy duty street application. I've had great luck running m55s never tried the 54 would be cool to have a quite street tread and swap on mud terrains in October

Does it pay to rebuild a leaking steering box or buy a re manufactured one? If it pays to rebuilding them is there a bearing on the shaft that can be replaced? Mine leaks some when turning when standing still. I've had it on for about 100k before I put my steering box brace on. Bob

I think I am having a air flow problem through my condenser at idle. Running down the road I have 40* center vent temps at 95 ambient. Creeps up when I hit a stop. Fan clutch seems to be moving lots of air in the shroud but I do not have baffles between rad and intercooler or intercooler and condenser. It had a AFE intercooler when I bought it, stock baffles gone. Anybody have any baffle suggestions? Thanks

Had a seat belt warning light on ever since I got the truck, now after over a year I just can't put it off anymore as I need to MOT it ( Ministry of Transport) safety check, once a year up until 40 years old then not needed. Checked it out and drivers side didn't feel right, 4 wires to the seat not 2 so I checked the ones for the belt solenoid and 12v and earth as expected, jumpered the 2 and still the same, I swapped the controller and it was still the same so took the drivers seat out and swapped it for the seat out of my 3500, still the same, finally swapped the passenger seat and now all is good, warning light goes out after the check, I suppose it could be the p…

OK 2nd gen gurus I have searched for days and now must ask. Working on getting the headlight switch operational again in my 01. PO spliced in a pullout type HL switch which looks to be from the 97 type rams. So what I have is power to the headlights constant. which I believe is correct. So feeding into my HL switch I have a pink and red that is hot constant. The red and green which is the largest going in should also be hot constant but is not. However if I turn on the switch the red/green becomes hot. Also the LG wire that is HL output to the dimmer in the multifunction switch is constant hot. I believe the LG should only become hot after the HL switch is pulled out the …

I have a broken front abs sensor on my 2wd 3500 dually. They are no longer made and if you can even find one it seems to be made of gold and has no guarantee. Does anybody know of a reputable supplier?

I noticed last week I had a tiny bit of play in one of my ball joints. I plan to replace all four in the next week or two. I wasn't sure if I would need an alignment afterwards or not.

I have asked questions on here before, but now as I have some money saved up I am ready to spend a little on my truck and have a question to ask, that will most likely lead to 100 other questions. To start off with, I have a 2001 24 valve that just hit 194000 miles. I bought the truck completely stock performance wise other than an edge comp box, and have done nothing to it since. The only issues with the truck that I know of is the transmission pan seems to have a leak, which I believe I can easily fix by replacing the gasket, and I have a broken sway at bushing, but I have asked about this before and some people on here have said that they completely removed their sway …

Long story short I had to replace the engine in my otherwise reliable old truck at 298000. That part with the exception of busted knuckles and not having done it before, went off mostly okay though I’m still not completely finished, due to the challenges described below. While wrestling the new engine into place at the bell housing and torque converter I inadvertently squashed a white vacuum line. I managed to get it removed from between the two sections. Now when trying to trace it back I find there is a second (unsquished) white line. What are these and where are they supposed to be terminated? Also, when the exhaust came out I now have a black r…

I just sent my ECM off to Auto Computer Specialists to be worked on. Received it back, put it back in and it ran great for about 2 weeks. Threw a 1287 code, lost all fuel pressure, engine died, and "no bus" showed in the odometer, and the WTS is flashing again . Waited 5 minutes or so, tried to start it up and acted like nothing was wrong. Originally it had a 1287 code, they fixed the fuel pump circuit, the engine would lug at initial start up, and the voltage regulator was erratic and WTS light was flashing. Batteries are charged and grounds are clean. Any suggestions as what my next step is?

Walking through autozone I spotted these it sh!t I can drill a hole and bolt em on I say yo myself Did it last night just yanked 11k 60 miles and ohh my so much more precise and stable cornering steering even straight line driving. Only problem is I think I blew my head gasket. Pepsi has me set on timing 4 pulled a few grades making 30psi. ****. Lol I'm kidding, SW5 t4 d5 feels good Dont know why I didnt think of this sooner. Also sorry that these wont bolt on anyone else's truck. They are a few inches to short but are working great. Truck feels new well newer. Wonders around so much less. Autozone had…

there is what appears to be a 90* vacuum or some other fitting in the backside of the drivers side front fender. My windshield washer doesn't work maybe this is why, but my 4x4 doesn't engage either, maybe this is why. Thank you!!