2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Ok guys here we go. My truck is a 2000 2500 w/ 24v cummins and here is my problem. I bought the truck back in September 15 and has run like a top up until now. I am driving to work this morning and my voltage dropped out and dash light can on saying "check gauges". My immediate thought was ok I just lost the alternator no big deal. Pulled it off and went to Napa, had it tested before I bought a new one and surprisingly it tested OK. Bought a new one anyway for good measure and had it tested before I walked out of the store, also had both my batteries load tested while I was there and they check out. Get back to work and throw the new alternator on, drive it fo…

Situation: Beginning a new job soon with 145 mile daily commute on hilly, curvy roads. Limited snow and ice. Truck still has play in steering, poor OEM lights, and mileage is sadly around 12mpg the last time I calculated it. Steering was some improved after addition of Luke's Link, but at highway speeds of 70mph the truck required me to keep 2 hands on the wheel to make sure I had control at all times. Truck: ’99 Quad Cab w/8 ft bed. Installed lower(?) balls joints on both sides a couple years ago, er...had installed. Installed Luke’s Link on OEM track bar Aug 2015 as I put on new tires and it could be aligned due to slop in the front end. Goal: 1st is safet…

I am real need of new headlights of some sort but am not really which route to go. I saw the thread about the retrofits of the projectors into the stock housing but and running HID with them. I like the throw of light side to side that the hid have by I can really get any info on what kind of distance I will see with them. Is there anyone that has gone the sport light conversion route then switch over to the HID and projectors. Just trying to get best bang for my buck.

I like that. Another tidbit... I've had this happen to a customer truck and it was so simple to fix. If you happen to have o-rings form A/C work or just a o-ring kit you can swap them out in no time flat.

Update with the article for the install Just a small teaser, I am putting together an article, but in the meantime. Morimoto mini h1 bi xenon swap to resolve the poor 2nd gen lights.

Who makes the best aftermarket headlights for these trucks? I'm wanting housings that are designed for the regular halogen bulbs. I've read that the OEM housing are the best but really don't want to spend $400 on them. Sanding my current housings worked pretty good to brighten things up but the plastic is full of stress cracks which gives them a pretty crappy beam.

Ok Gang... I'm going to produce a write-up on how to replace an ignition switch and lock assembly for a 2nd Gen truck. More to follow soon. What happen was I took the 96 Dodge into town and load it with fuel brought it back home. Put it away. Later on realized I needed to bring in firewood for the night. So I went out fire up the truck and backed into the wood shed and shut it down. Loaded up with wood in the bed and tailgate. Hopped back in the driver seat turn the key and shock to feel the ignition switch snap internal and the key rolled over without resistance. No ignition, no start. I played with it for quite a little bit and figured out if I pressed the key …

I happened to come across this video on YouTube and found it very informative. I'm guilty of some of the mistakes show in the video, I never gave it much thought before.

So I'm planning to upgrade to the 98-99 HD steering in the near future and was wondering about the current quality of Moog parts. I've heard that Moog's quality has really gone down the crapper in the last few years but I don't have any first hand experience to confirm or deny it. I don't want to spend the time and money installing new parts if they're not going to last.

my son has a 99 dakota, 4x4 5.2ltr, with 44re automatic. the truck has 175,00 on the motor and the tranny has about 70,000 miles. the tranny shifts in and out of O/D every 20 seconds or so, shifting back down into 3rd and then into O/D again. the tranny temp light comes on and goes off as it shifts. in the past years i have replaced the shift solenoid, and the governor pressure solenoid. when this problem appeared i replaced the O/D solenoid and the temp sensor. they are only serviced as an assembly. i also replaced the ets (engine temp sensor) as this was the only code stored in the pcm. it currently has no codes stored, historical, or pending codes. i have no idea where…

Took my shifter knob off, kind of mangled the knob prying the shift pattern indicator out, whats the easiest way to put it back in as it's larger then the opening due to the ridge that locks it in place when its in

For a couple months now I noticed moisture dripping from the floor vent on the passenger side of the tranny hump. right next to the " SRS" cover (I hope that makes sense) The moisture is mixed with what I THINK is green paint from when I painted my truck about 4 years ago and got overspray into the exterior vent at the bottom of my windshield. I know that sounds strange because it seems whatever paint was in there would have dried long ago. So I am open to suggestions for other explanations for the green stuff. While I first thought the moisture was water, now Im not so sure because it feels somewhat oily. any thoughts? Ill try to post a pic to help ex…

Seems I am seeing a lot of folks with problems that are going to require removal of the dash to fix. Be it a bad heater core. ac evaporator or cracked dash. I am stating this to let anyone know that this is NOT a difficult job as some would make it out to be. it can be time consuming but there is nothing special you have to do to accomplish this.No special tools are required, just standard stuff. Mike has a good write that I used and the LMC dash i bought had some good instructions to. I took mine out and replaced the dash and rebuilt the hvac box. I spent 2 to 2.5 days to do mine working at my leisure to accomplish it. I would recommend that if you have to go into y…

I want to bring your attention to heat core servicing. I know there is a thread over on CF explaining on how to do the short cut method where you cut the tube ends and hose clamp inside the truck. This gets around the idea of having to recharge the A/C. I would like to advise against this method being so far the HVAC I've open in the years all them are truly funky looking with everything from mice nest to like this one with packed hay and road dust. If you going to do a heat core do it right and take care of everything. This includes the stepper motor for the blend door, dust and debris on the system, check your blower motor for problem and resistor.

Not sure if anyone tried this but, I was rotating tires and found a lot of greenish looking corrosion inside wheel caps. So after scrubbing that crap off for a while and not having much progress, I tried using regular toilet bowl cleaner that says "removes rust, lime, calcium". Man that stuff took it right off and didn't do any damage to good surface. I only got after picture, everywhere you see plastic showing that's where that nasty green looking crap was. I wish I would of cut it sooner but outside still looks good. I'd imagine it would work good for getting corrosion of the rims too.

It's getting cold and I'm wondering if my heated mirrors are working before it gets icy. I noticed the heated emblem on the mirror itself and was wondering if that is supposed to light up too when on? Most likely going to put some tow mirrors on, but want to check before diving into that project. thanks

Well guys I just replaced my heater core and my air only comes out the defrost and floor vents. Any suggestions why? I'm about fed up and about ready to send it to the dealership.

I was getting the abs module open relay code, so I sent the ABS module out to circiutboardmedics to have it "rebuilt"(not 100% sure what this service entailed)Anyways, before I sent the module out, I had a constantly lit brake light, as well as a working speedo.I received the module today, and thinking everything was honkeydorey, plugged it in, all was well for about 1 minute, then the gauges temporarily died, I got the check engine light and brake light(p0500, p1693 and p1694 codes when pulled with the 3xkey trick)The rest of the gauges came immediatly back, except for the speedo.The driver side wheelhub was just replaced with a new skf unit and sensor. The p/s hub and s…

Hey all. I could use some advice regarding snow chains for my 2wd. We are going up to mammoth over Christmas and can either take my truck or my wife's highlander hybrid (also 2wd) which is front wheel drive. Both cars have highway tires, as we live in southern California. We will need to get chains one way or the other and was wondering which you guys think would be the smarter choice,so I can go ahead and order up. My truck is certainly more durable with my ranch hand bumper etc, but the highlander will have its weight over the front drive wheels vs the pickup bed, and it seems that having the chains in front might help a tad with steering and control. Tho…

Got Out of the truck and went in the house. Had to come back Out to grab some firewood. Noticed the brake lights were on. The front marker lights are as well. Checked the selector switch and changed nothing. Can't turn them off! Wtf, what's going on....