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I have a 99 Ram & was hoping that someone would have a good diagram of the oiling system.  something that shows bypasses, coolers, filters, etc. 

 

Ive dont a bunch of searches & cant seem to come up with anything for the ISB.

 

thanks

Bob

 

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OK, its official.....................

 

Mopar73Man is THE Man when it comes to these trucks. 

 

I have been surfing around your site for the last year or so, & there is a TON of gold to be mined.  thank you, for everything.

 

Bob

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OK, so while Im at it.............

 

as I mentioned this is a 99 with the cummins motor, auto, 2x4, crew cab, Ive put all 195K on it.  Ive noticed the last year or so, that as soon as I start the truck up it takes longer for the oil pressure to show on the gauge.  I have not put a mechanical gauge on it yet so I dont know if its the sending unit or really the oil pressure.  occationally it will take long enough that the dash will ding @ me & tell me to look @ the gauges.  almost as soon as it does ding, the needle will shoot up.

 

the presure seems to be right where it has always been (both @ idle & running down the road).

 

one thing that I noticed changing the oil the other day was that the oil filter was only 1/2 full.  then it occured to me that it has been like that for @ least 4 oil changes.  I noticed it when I dumped the filter out to drain it when I was done with the oil change.  Ive only used Wix filters since about 50K, but Im on my second fleetguard & there is no difference. 

 

so............. any thoughts??  I was going to take apart the oil bypasses & clean them & check them out. 

 

thanks

Bob

the oil pressure gauge in the truck dash is a dummy gauge. It isn't good for anything.  I wouldn't worry, if you want put a mech gauge in to verify, but I don't think I have ever heard of a oil pump going back in one of these trucks, provided of course that the truck has had it's oil changed haha.

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I change the oil every 3K to 5K depending on usage. 

 

I dont think I would be worried except this is a relatively new thing & Ive never had 1/2 full oil filters @ an oil change before. 

 

Wild & Free, pardon my ignorance, but is there someplace that gives you the 5W's on oil samples & tells you what is means once you get the results?

 

thanks again

Bob

Yep double check it with a mechanical gauge first then go with a sample before tearing into the bypass and reliefs, it would indicate wear metals showing an issue with main or rod bearings or other metals from cam bearing ect.

The fastest way to go would be if you have a local caterpillar dealer who has an SOS oil lab to pick up a sample bottle at and then have them do it and post the results here and we can walk you through the results. Would cost you in the neighborhood of 20 bucks depending on the cat dealership otherwise there are mail order Used oil analyzer companies like Blackstone labs, oil analyzers through amsoil or a number of others.

What filters are you using? I hope good quality and not fram. I just got a case of 12 from eBay donaldson dbl7349 best filter out there. And thanks to AH64ID TO POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.

OK, so while Im at it.............

 

as I mentioned this is a 99 with the cummins motor, auto, 2x4, crew cab, Ive put all 195K on it.  Ive noticed the last year or so, that as soon as I start the truck up it takes longer for the oil pressure to show on the gauge.  I have not put a mechanical gauge on it yet so I dont know if its the sending unit or really the oil pressure.  occationally it will take long enough that the dash will ding @ me & tell me to look @ the gauges.  almost as soon as it does ding, the needle will shoot up.

 

the presure seems to be right where it has always been (both @ idle & running down the road).

 

one thing that I noticed changing the oil the other day was that the oil filter was only 1/2 full.  then it occured to me that it has been like that for @ least 4 oil changes.  I noticed it when I dumped the filter out to drain it when I was done with the oil change.  Ive only used Wix filters since about 50K, but Im on my second fleetguard & there is no difference. 

 

so............. any thoughts??  I was going to take apart the oil bypasses & clean them & check them out. 

 

thanks

Bob

 

 

What filters are you using? I hope good quality and not fram. I just got a case of 12 from eBay donaldson dbl7349 best filter out there. And thanks to AH64ID TO POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.

Your answer my friend is floating in his own post from above lol. :)

Your answer my friend is floating in his own post from above lol. :)

Sorry had a few drinks it's Friday. But according to AH64ID only donaldson is able to flow as close to where it's required.

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thanks Gents,

 

Ive been prefilling filters for probably 30 years (since I was "enlightened" by the old guy @ the shop when I was in my late teens.  LOL). 

 

I will do a little checking into it this weekend (if its not 100* out) & see if I cant find someplace local that can do the oil analysis. 

 

The thing thats bothering me is that this is a semi new thing.  the oil presure never does anything stupid once its running, which leads me to think the sender is likely OK, but better to check than AssUMe. 

 

thanks again, it gives me some place to start.

 

Bob

Well I don't believe oil filter quality/brand has anything to do with this problem. I agree you should send in an oil analysis and check the starting oil pressure with a mechanical gauge.

The thing that's puzzling me is how in the heck is the oil filter siphoning itself half empty after shutdown. If that is the case I can see your oil pressure taking longer to come up. The filter does sit higher than the oil pan so is it possible the crank case is under a slight vacuum after shutting down and siphoning oil out of the filter? My Friday night somewhat beer injected brain can't come up with any better answers.

Depends on if he is pulling the filter after it has sat for a bit and cooled a bit is normal to draw oil back to the bottom of the filter stud or down about 1-2 inches, but if it is pulled while hot shortly after shut down and it is down that far then there is an issue as that's not normal.

 

Fill fuel and oil spin on filters only if done the proper way of pouring it in the outer holes and letting it perkilate through to the center on its own so to filter it carefully and cleanly if pouring into the center which is where the clean oil exits the filter one gets some debris unknowingly in there is a straight shot to the engine to cause all sorts of havoc. Never prefill a canister filter housing, there is no way to ensure clean enough fuel.

Sorry didn't know if you got factory filter housing, assumed that everyone by now has an aftermarket spin on fuel filter. And I usually don't mix my drinks I like it staight, gets right to the point that way no crewing around.

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The Fuel filter is OEM, but not the issue.

 

Im one of those guys that cant walk by a garage w/o getting oil all over myself, so I change the oil cold, I dont dig having 3 gallons of hot oil running down my arm.  LOL. 

 

Ive done every oil change on this motor for 198,000 miles, Ive NEVER had this issue with the oil in the filter

 

I am not convinced that the oil level in the filter really has anything to do with the oil pressure not coming up as soon as I start it.  the reason I say that is if I change the oil & fill the filter to the top (& I mean tippy top) & fire the motor up, it still takes a while for the oil pressure to show on the gauge. 

 

that said.............. It sure would make sense if that was what was going on. 

 

Bob (& his buddy John Jameson)

I have noticed when I pull the drain plug and just let it sit and drain that my filter is usually an inch or two low. If I pull the plug and go right after the filter it is full. Just recently noticed this. I like the filter being alittle low. Makes getting it out of the engine bay a lot cleaner. I change my oil both hot a cold.