Well new to me at least!

Some of you helped me out in my other thread when looking for one. Well I finally pulled the trigger and picked one up!

It's a 2002 4x4 QC LB auto. Single owner, garage kept majority of its life, never had a goose neck or 5th wheel (which is harder to find than you'd think up here). Came with a 2in leveling kit and 35's and a hypertech 'tuner' to fix the speedo. Other then that, she's all stock. I crawled under to check for any signs of a 53 and couldn't find anything, so I might have a mexican block, but I'm going to keep checking. I couldn't be happier! I originally wanted a manual, but the wife said, if I'm getting a new truck then she better at least be able to drive it. So rather then argue, I just said 'ok' and got lookin!

Anyways, wanted to start a thread here because, since it is stock and I'm planning on keeping this truck for the long haul, I wanted to do some mini write ups of the mods and what not I get done to her. As of now, here's the order I want to go in:

1. FUEL! and lots of it!

2. Gauges

3. Steering

4. Transmission

5. More power!

3 and 4 may get swapped around depending on what's needed more and my budget but that's the general order.

 

So to start, fuel... The stock injection pump was replaced by the dealer 50-60k miles ago so it should have some decent life left, and it looks like they moved the stock lift pump. I didn't track it down exactly, just looking fairly quickly, and couldn't find it mounted on the frame, did they do in tank LP's for 02's? I'd like to fatten up my fuel lines to 3/8s everywhere possible, also looking to go with the Fuel Boss, but not sure how that works if my LP is mounted in the back in tank if that's even a thing. Any ideas or experience with this? As of now I'm looking at getting the following for step 1.

FUEL BOSS ----- BIG LINE KIT ----- MOD FUEL MODULE

As far as fuel lines, the obvious is the big line kit from Vulcan but I figured I'd talk with Eric about getting lines replace as much stock line as possible. I also threw on the modified fuel module. I saw that as I was browsing their site and hadn't seen it before. Is that necessary at all? Keep in mind I'm just looking to have fuel flow as easily as possible through the truck. When more power rolls around I don't plan on going EXTREME, but would like lack of fuel to never be thought of again after this.

I'll leave at this for now but really looking forward to wrenching on this truck and getting her setup for the long haul!

Over the year I've seen a few that had issues between the tap point and the needle valve. Mostly the poor grade of hose used.

7 minutes ago, notlimah said:

I'm more concerned about being able to shut down fuel leaking into the cab quickly if that were to happen.

Remember as the key is turned off the lift pump does too. So... turning your key off is faster that you can pop the hood release and run out and spin it closed. As for leaks in the cab if you use good quality 1/8" air brake line you won't have a single problem. It the very same stuff big trucks use for pressure gauges as well.

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I would of mounted the needle valve right at the tap point. Now when that hose failed your going to be stuck with ZERO way to shut down the fuel.

                         That's what vice grips under the seat are for.

Sorry, I don't carry vise grip or other tools under my seat. Just a half gallon of drinking water. Most of my tools stay at home in the tool box.

...no vise grips?  are you crazy man????  

8 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

...no vise grips?  are you crazy man????  

Why do you think they call him the idaho wild man?...

 

Oh wait, they dont call him that.  Nevermind.

 

Vise grips are more important than duct tape.  Especially the mini size.

These are the most important tool I own.

 

The Jaws stay parallel %100 of the time and clamping force is HUGE.  I can do more work on the truck with just those than any other tool.  If they only had a locking feature, BRB searching the net for locking Knipex plyers.............

I was looking for locking plyers.....but I found these instead.....

http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-86-03-400-16_inch-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B00FBPPKPO

 

Must have

Ok guys need help!!

I have the FASS installed, I'm getting fuel to the vp, have my injector lines cracked but no fuel is coming out of injectors so obviously no start. 

Wtf?! 

Only crack 1,3,4 leave the rest of the injectors alone. Then crank till she starts. Typically I'll crank for 15-20 second burst.

If there is no action. disconnect your grid heaters at the battery. The give the air intake a quick burst of starting fluid and crank it up. I've only had one rare time that I had to pop a engine with starting fluid to get it started.

Thanks Mike. 

Apparently this truck wants you to crank for a while before it'll get fuel to the injectors. My 99 I could just bump and the lift pump would push fuel up to them. 

Anyways, cranked for about 10 seconds, tried to fire. Went out and snugged down the injectors since I knew the next go she'd start and I didn't want fuel to get to crazy. Next crank fired right up! 

If it's outside I've been known to just crank till it fires then tighten down the lines after its started.

Yea that's what I should've done. I think it would've started the first time around but the lines were pretty open. Once I tightend them down so they were just snug she fired right up.

Ok so gauges are in. Went for a test ride and was seeing either a rock solid gauge as in, wasn't moving under hard accelerating or anything or it would wander +/-2psi when I opened the needle valve a little more. 

I've teed into the fuel line about where to stock fuel filter is.

Can too much 1/8 line for my gauge cause weird readings? Is my tee too close to the VP? Was solid pressure actually accurate?

I'm taking her to work tomorrow so I'll have more info later

I usually see around 3psi change in mine. All depends on how you have it plumbed. I use the stock filter, you did not. Mine is tapped halfway between the canister and the VP so closer than you. It just seems to vary from truck to truck too. Nothing wrong with 2 psi drop. Drive it some and a while and see how it settles in. 

So the fluctuation is happening at idle (no grids running) or even when cruising with solid throttle input. I expected a psi drop under acceleration but not just random readings during those other times. Is that normal with these bigger pumps?

No, it's not normal. I only see roughly 1-2 PSI drop from idle to WOT throttle with warm fuel. Cold fuel can drop more like 3-4 PSI in minus weather.

I see fluctuation with my needle valve open too far.  Try just cracking the valve, just barely opening it. 

Yea I'm trying to walk the line between open enough so I see fuel pressure change when it's happening but not so much to where it's flucating when it shouldn't 

Well drive into work showed the following numbers.

19psi @ startup and idle - showed 0 deflection even under load with grids cycling.

20-21psi while driving - showed practically 0 deflection even while hard acceleration.

I'm really wondering if I'm really just getting that solid of numbers? I might crack the needle valve a TINY bit more to see if I can get the gauge more responsive and see if that changes my numbers.

 

Other than flickering between 2 digits.. mine doesn't fluctuate. Stays the same 16-17 at idle or acceleration. Dropped to 14-15 when it gets really cold out.

Maybe I am missing something.  Are you doubting your gauge?  Do you have the option of putting a mechanical test gauge to verify your in cab readings?  I don't see much movement on my needle and a mechanical test gauge shows the same.