Some May recall my previous problem with my Fuel pressure. Initially the thought was air in the lines. But now I think it's something to do with the air dog pump block area itself. It still could be a house in this area,i dunno. What I do know, is that the problem is stemming from this area.

 

Last night after work, I killed the batteries trying to get the truck to crank over. Luckily I had a guy to jump me.

 

On the first startup of the day, it cranks over no problem. Sits afterwards, then it becomes a problem. This has happened a few nights in a row now. But not bad enough like Last night.

 

I'll bump the starter to get the pump to cycle, and I can distinctly hear a whirring noise like it's not primed. But maybe after a few bumps it'll prime and the whir noise goes away, the pump changes in sound and Fuel pressure goes back up.

 

Mind you I get about 17psi, when it's not sounding primed. But when it gets primed, 20 to 22psi. I'm at a loss here, and tried calling air dog But they didn't answer. Probably called too late...

 

Any idea what it is? Could the fittings to the pump block be bad? If it happens again tonight, I'll record video of it to try and get it.

The ADII has a regulator. I have only used mine twice I think since I installed it. The Raptor pump use the regulator too.

The fuel line might only need some polishing.

It will be interesting to see what you turn up on the return tee. Those little grommets seem awful pricey for what they are.

Edited August 20, 20168 yr by dripley

I just went out and the trick still has trouble. So it wasn't the sealing washers...

 

I loosened the injector line then re tightened it and it appears to have stopped the leak. 

 

Dunno if that'll help my problem or not. Return tee is next. 

 

The fuel regulator for the ad 165 is not a ball system. Uses a pin and spring style. 

Edited August 21, 20168 yr by hex0rz

I have a brand new set of Air Dog 1/2'' quick connect fuel lines. Free if anyone wants them. Vulcan says they leak air into the system so I had Eric set me up with the right pump fittings to eliminate them.

Edited August 21, 20168 yr by JAG1

Not even sure I should say this but I still have mine on after 5 or 6 years. Knock wood.

I like that you said that Dripley. Eric says they wear and leak and that's all I can go by except my quick connect air hoses have always leaked sooner or later boss.

9 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

I like that you said that Dripley. Eric says they wear and leak and that's all I can go by except my quick connect air hoses have always leaked sooner or later boss.

I understand what you are saying. I have heard a lot stories about the quick connects leaking on the fuel lines. Pretty surprised I have not had any issues. I developed an intermittent miss under hard throttle about 6 months ago and was figuring that might be the cause. It just quit a couple weeks later and has not come back. So who knows. 

 

I too have had my fair share of leaky air quick connects leak. They are pretty cheap and easy to fix.

I had some problems and e-mailed somebody (I think Air Dog?) and  here is copy of what they sent me.

 

 

 

Loss of Fuel PSI/Running Out of Fuel

• Initial question: Do you have flow from the PureFlow® product?

• If the answer is yes, where is the location of the gauge port being used?

• The gauge port in the filter housing will not work when the fuel is routed around the stock fuel filter housing.

• The gauge port utilized may not be in the pressure stream of fuel.

• The pressure gauge is not reading pressure.

• The vehicle is receiving fuel; however, the pressure relief for the pump (ex.: VP-44 / CP-3) is open and allowing fuel to return to the tank through this pump.

• Pinch the line going to the pressure pump to stop the flow of fuel after the pressure gauge. Remove the relay from the unit's wiring harness. Place a jump wire between the red and yellow wires in the relay socket. Read the pressure in the dead head mode.

• If the pressure goes up to the desired pre-set pressure, the problem is indicated to be with the pressure pump relief mechanism.

• If the pressure does not show on the gauge, the problem is indicated at the unit or gauge. Check to another gauge.

• Check the line connections. Engine to engine. Tank to tank.

• Remove the Return to "Tank" fitting. Spring and ball in the pocket? Properly seated?

• Remove the gerotor cap. Is the gerotor turning?

• If the electric motor is running and the gerotor is stationary, pull the center gear off the motor shaft. Is the flat inside the gerotor center gear rounded or missing?

• If the electric motor is running and the gerotor is turning slowly, check the voltage to the motor. Low voltage will reduce the motor RPM's; hence, reduce or stop pressurized flow.

• If low voltage check the wiring connections and voltage regulator.

Well fixing the weep at the injector line didn't fix it. Going to tackle the tee next...

Haven't gotten to the tee yet, will do it this weekend. But for now, this is what in getting at startup. Took 3 primes originally but lately it's hut and miss.  This isn't the vp44 is it?

 

 

If I remember correctly, white smoke on a cold start up is typically just a timing thing and nothing to really worry about. Plus with your injectors it'll only add to that. If it smokes with constantly then that's an issue. 

 

Btw, your truck sounds mean! What exhaust are you running?

I never had white smoke until this fuel problem showed up. 

 

I run just stock exhaust with a 5" tip. I got the truck that way and haven't touched it since. 

Air in the fuel it sounds like if you getting white smoke.

agree'd

Better than the vp44 dying on me!

Again we are back to suction side leak before the pump. 

I did the fuel return tee last night. I would rather do a dozen banjo washer installs than do one tee!

 

I used some 1/4" fuel line like i read somewhere else. It works good but the inside diameter is just a little too small. So it'll bulge out some when you get it over the hard line. 

 

Took me longer than i ever wanted to get it done, but it's done. 

 

 

But.... it didn't fix it!

 

I guess the next thing is to drop the tank and see what i find. ?

 

I want to do it to see if something is wrong, but then i know I'll have to drop the tank again if something is wrong. I hate doing things twice. 

I hear ya! That thing is a pain to do!

 

Have you thought about checking your crossover tube o-rings?

On 9/1/2016 at 5:43 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Again we are back to suction side leak before the pump. 

 

How can it be though? I did the bucket test and it didn't change anything. 

3 hours ago, notlimah said:

I hear ya! That thing is a pain to do!

 

Have you thought about checking your crossover tube o-rings?

That could still be a consideration. Although when i pulled the steel lines to look at how they mated to the tubes, i checked them and they looked good and they had a form click when re inserting them. 

Since you used 1/4" fuel for the grommets did you double check to be sure it is still not leaking? I understand using the fuel line, the oe grommets are pricey for what they are. Did they fit snug in the tee? Just asking not questioning your intentions.

 

When I went thru this I never experience white smoke like you. i am thinking others might be right on sucking air.

Edited September 4, 20168 yr by dripley

Yes they were a pain to get on. Like i said the hole was slightly too small. I did check for leaks and it was good. 

 

More digging will have to be done... i have no choice. It's either that or the vp is giving up.