Last year I got my tranny completely rebuilt,our local tranny specialist put everything heavy duty and it never performed too good it seemed like the shifting was sluggish from 1st to 2nd  and now 9000K later the tranny let go again he pulled it apart and everything was wore out he replaced everything under warranty and he mentioned that the problem was the alternator, as anybody experience something similar?

I agree, I think the valve body is key. I think people were throwing triple discs into stock trans and not doing anything else and snapping shafts. That just goes to show that you have to upgrade everything accordingly. 

 

You don't have to agree with Dynamic, that's just his preference and he's able to setup a truck just fine with a triple disc and stock shafts. I think single disc still have a market, just think they're a lot smaller and a lot of the time, if you're going to upgrade, might as well go to a triple for only a couple hundred more. 

 

As for @wagntagn, I wouldn't even bother tackling your truck back to the first trans shop unless you think they'll do some sort of warranty type stuff. Sounds like the most recent place knows what they're talking about so why not let them wrench on things?

Your right I'm working with the first guy been fighting that issue the past 2 years hopefully I can get something back,I have 1500 km on the last rebuilt and the oil is already fried?Thanks guys!

What's the first shops name that likes to fry oil? if you don't mind revealing it.

Edited June 8, 20177 yr by JAG1

Better not he's a local guy,he mentioned he thought it was a triple disc he installed but the mistake was done twice as he said that when the torq convertor fried the 1st time he had got an exchange?? The other shop sent me pics and it was an off brand single disc torq convertor which are blue in color( King o matic),the one they usually go with are black triple disc and the manufacturer is Convertor man,so the first shop said he'll cover for the cost of the new one $2000. hopefully this one will do better,so my cost will be labour ,bands and other parts,I'll keep you updated on the results.

On 6/7/2017 at 3:50 PM, dave110 said:

Hmmm. Interesting. I followed the torque converter discussions pretty closely when I was ready to put one in years ago and the general idea HAD been that a triple is a no, no  with a stock input for fear of breaking it. I talked to Frank at Revmax at the time and he sold me on a billet big single after talking about me and my truck. Now I tow ~ 9k with the Edge on 2 and run empty on 5 and my TC won't even offer a hint of shudder, and I know what shudder and slip feels like. It's been in for about 35k and is still working like day one. Not trying to disagree with Dynamic at all, I realize he is quite popular around here. But is the thought now that a triple disc OK on an otherwise stock trans.?

It depends upon the converter and the way the valve body is calibrated. I run triples in every Cummins application, and the vast majority of them are on stock input shafts.

During the rebuild of my 46RE he showed me the notch in the valve body plate that controls how fast the fluid dumps for engaging the lockup clutch. So like we discussed there no reason for my application but a person could open the port more and causing the clutch hit faster or have a custom plate that is smaller dump port and engage slower.

On 5/12/2017 at 9:27 PM, wagntagn said:

The tranny is still acting up from 1st kind a skips 2nd then goes in 3rd ,one thing I did is when pulling up hill if I leave the tranny in 1st gear it doesn't run hot if in drive it overheats,the second gear doesn't engage fully overheating tranny,my traany guy told me it's bad grounds causing the issue some guys did the fix by wrapping grounds with foil paper??Is this possible?

 

This sounds like a is a valve body issue, If you push hard on the pedal then lift up on it does the truck shift? I think this is a line pressure issue.

 

On 5/13/2017 at 9:16 AM, JAG1 said:

 I am wondering...When adding grounding wires.. it hides the harmful AC ripple because it creates a more efficient route to the batteries? Why can't the DVM measure the A/C ripple thru the added grounds if one probe is on the negative battery post?

 

 

I sometimes have gear hunting between 1st and 2nd. It's kind of like I'm cruising slowl,y no acceleration just letting the truck run a little bit above coasting, floating So to speak. I have not gotten rid of the issue and my A/C voltage with the Fluke is .01.

So I'm cleaning existing grounds and the truck seems to be responding better in other ways but still have more to clean and tighten. Some were not snug and at worse only slightly corroded.

 

I did have to add a ground from the alternator casing to the negative battery post because my dc voltage at the batteries was too low in comparison to the voltage at the back of the alternator. even though everything is clean tigh at the battery postst, the alternator ground was showing a poor ground connection thru the mounting bracket.

 

Mike does not like me doing this even though it's my truck, LOL, so I promise to unhook this ground during A/C ripple tests.

shuttle shift is common with built automatics, but requires a different way adjust it.

Your adding grounds from the battery to the alternator, i would do a voltage drop test on both the drivers and passenger side ground cables, and I'm not talking to just the connections, but the actual cable itself.

I had a failing drivers side battery ground cable, and that was causing excessive noise onto the passenger battery, replacing both cables for me did fix my TC lock up issues.

 

Edited June 9, 20177 yr by pepsi71ocean

Something to check I did at one point installed an extra ground from passenger side battery to ground

On 6/9/2017 at 9:57 AM, pepsi71ocean said:

 

This sounds like a is a valve body issue, If you push hard on the pedal then lift up on it does the truck shift? I think this is a line pressure issue.

 

shuttle shift is common with built automatics, but requires a different way adjust it.

Your adding grounds from the battery to the alternator, i would do a voltage drop test on both the drivers and passenger side ground cables, and I'm not talking to just the connections, but the actual cable itself.

I had a failing drivers side battery ground cable, and that was causing excessive noise onto the passenger battery, replacing both cables for me did fix my TC lock up issues.

 

Could be a valve body issue, but it could be a problem with the intermediate band or servo. 

 

"Built" automatics should not shuttle shift anymore than a stock one should. I build 200+ transmissions and valve bodies every year, and none of them shuttle shift. ?

With the new rebuilt should I go with better cooling like bigger oil pan or better oil cooler?

25 minutes ago, wagntagn said:

With the new rebuilt should I go with better cooling like bigger oil pan or better oil cooler?

 

I say better cooling... Skip the bigger pan. Larger pan just means that there is just more fluid to heat up. Where a bigger cooler just means cooler temperatures. 

Should I go with a fan cool for low speed the guys pulling heavy loads at low speed does the engine fan keeps everything cool?

13 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I say better cooling... Skip the bigger pan. Larger pan just means that there is just more fluid to heat up. Where a bigger cooler just means cooler temperatures. 

 

The aluminum pans also support the transmission case. Just something else to consider.

On 6/12/2017 at 6:10 AM, jlbayes said:

 

The aluminum pans also support the transmission case. Just something else to consider.

Yes... This is correct. One of the primary benefits of a cast aluminum pan, in addition to carrying extra fluid.

Guys with the smarty s03 and auto on what setting are you driving around without putting too much stress on your Tranny?

That's one of the problems with Smarty... It will reach 100% APPS signal at a mere 50% of pedal. There was a discussion about this in the Quadzilla thread. I know @Me78569 can fill you in with exact info about how Smarty just fools the APPS sensor values and makes it steep.

Anything over sw3 turns the throttle pedal into a light switch.

 

Here are the datalogs

With Revo settings you can control it better.  You would have to look at the smarty thread to see what helped.

 

Edited June 15, 20177 yr by Me78569

12 hours ago, Dynamic said:

Yes... This is correct. One of the primary benefits of a cast aluminum pan, in addition to carrying extra fluid.

My last trans builder clued me on to it. Never had considered it until he made the point. All mine from now on will get one.

Picked up my truck Saturday and guess what FINALLY!! my tranny shifts the way it should,no shuttle or slippage,now I have to go and talked to the 1st tranny guy and try to get more $ back from the warranty,I changed my Smarty setting to 3 and no problem the truck moves pretty good,loving it !!!

Awesome news man, glad you got it all situated!