My fuel tank is out right now and my fuel gauge is not very accurate.  Thinking now would be the time to change fuel sender, being tank is already dropped.

Question...to test the new sender before installing tank back up...

can I extend the wires using jumpers maybe 4 feet to test new sender that would be laying on ground about 3 feet away, fill up maybe ¼  and turn on key , repeat at ½ to make sure new sender is working OK before I put tank back up?

Is that a "go" or some reason I shouldn't?

Thanks

Just use an ohm meter

Mine has never been that accurate. it takes 120 miles before the needle moves, 300 miles to the first 3/4 mark. Second half of goes pretty quick. But it is consistent every tank. I have grown used to it.

Always ready for a new fuel sending unit.

Don't do it though... it's a lot of head scratching work to get it reinforced.

Edited November 2, 20168 yr by JAG1

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Mine has never been that accurate. it takes 120 miles before the needle moves, 300 miles to the first 3/4 mark. Second half of goes pretty quick. But it is consistent every tank. I have grown used to it.

   Mine does the same. 

   You can test the sender with it out of the tank.  Connect the jumper wires between the truck and sender unit then with the ignition on manually move the float arm from empty, ¼, ½, ¾ and full.  Take note fuel gauge readings. 

Mine is like @dripley fuel sender. I can easily reach 350 miles at a half. Then from there its starts to fall. In my older rigs I use to adjust the float arm to get near empty exactly. With the Dodge Ram there is roughly about 8-10 gallons at the fuel light so I don't panic really. Even my 1996 is the same way but its a 25 gallon fuel (V8 5.9L) tank vs the 35 gallon on the Cummins.

5 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Always ready for a new fuel sending unit.

Don't do it though... it's a lot of head scratching work to get it reinforced.

show off.

4 hours ago, dripley said:

show off.

It takes even more head scratching if you have a short bed!!

Thanks folks...Ordered one today.  $169.99 from dealer or around $95 from Geno's (with shipping)

26 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

Thanks folks...Ordered one today.  $169.99 from dealer or around $95 from Geno's (with shipping)

man.... if I remember,r that price is almost triple what it was not long ago.

9 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

man.... if I remember,r that price is almost triple what it was not long ago.

 My local dealer is a rip.  I can go 15 miles south to next dealer and many times the same thing is 20-30% less.

 

Not sure if modulator is OEM or not.  I do know 1st mechanic put it in an after market modulator and couldn't get it to work.  2nd mechanic put the modulator back in that 1st mechanic to took out and installed a draw straw.  And 3rd mechanic ripped out what he thought it didn't need and put in airdog.  This was after 9 year old FASS fell apart. 

 

I would like to thank everybody for responding and sharing your knowledge with me.  Great bunch of folks here.  Wife says go buy a new one.  Well not only can't I afford it, I would have to listen to my brother in law tell me how great his 7.3 is over and over.   I've got 97,000 miles and paid $27,000 in 2005 so that works out to be a lot of money per mile.  Wife is pissed that we could break down traveling.  I keep telling her is doesn't matter if or when or even where we break down.  We use truck for RV.  If we break down, we have everything we need being towed right behind us.  Yes, I'm in the dog house with my "Mighty Dodge".

 

I do know for now on I'm going to do ALL my own work if possible.  I used to not care, but this ordeal is little over $3,000 so far.  Includes towing and some parts used for only a 1 or 2 (like draw straw and modulator)

 

Once again would like to thank everybody!!!

 

 

Edited November 3, 20168 yr by 015point9
add photo's

Your own work will be better especially if you think outside the norm and build better than factory.

 

Example; My 1st gen fuel modulator broke in two. after  a lot of head scratching, thought I  had fleas.... I made my own module out of 4 inch ABS straight coupling and stainless steel screws. I got it the right length with the tank empty sitting on shop floor so when full it was good.

 

Id do it again too.

I'll never hear the end of it now..... stay away from JAG..... he's got fleas

I'll never hear the end of it now..... stay away from JAG..... he's got fleas

Edited November 3, 20168 yr by JAG1