Hey Guys, New to the Forum, but not new to Cummins diesel trucks. I limped my Cummins home on idle as this is all it would do. 2002 Dodge Cummis 4x4 6 speed manual. Basically stock, except for Smarty programmer and Airdog 100 fuel pump along with pillar gauges to monitor. 

 

Host of codes showing up when I read them off my Smarty programmer. I swear I have a bad ground or something of that nature, but I don't know where else to look. I'm almost at my wits end!

Things I have already done:

Cleaned battery terminals both batteries.

Replaced APPS with Timbo

Replaced MAP sensor-Factory Cummins part

Replaced IAT sensor -Factory Cummins part

 

Truck will not rev. up. If it does it will only rev. for a few seconds then "cut out". Rough idle like never before.

 

CEL light lit up along with temp. gauge going "crazy" right to 240 degrees at "start up" then goes back to "zero" back and forth. Then "Check Engine " light comes on and goes off.

 

These are the codes I'm pulling:

 

P1488-Aux. 5 volt too low

P0606-ECM failure

P0575-Cruise switch failure shorted

P0342- Dont know what this is?

P1286- Don't know what this is?

P0562-Charging system too low 

P0117-ETC sensor too low

 

I don't know where else to look or do? I think I have a bad ground somewhere? Please help. Thank you!

 

 

I just got my rebuilt ecm from Auto Computer Exchange and after reading bad reviews about every other company, including Them, I decided to take a chance. My experience with them was good, and I got a good Ecm back that was properly flashed for my truck. My problem is that I don't think my Ecm was bad to begin with, my truck still has the original problem. 

Edited March 8, 20178 yr by Thunder2001

5 hours ago, jlbayes said:

You need to find a shop that is localish that knows these trucks. A Cummins dealer is not high on the list. Same with a Dodge/Ram dealer.

I agree.  Just because they are the dealer doesn't make them knowledgeable about older models.  The mechanics that were working on them 14-18 years ago are probably gone and the guys that are there now may know 3ed generation and newer only.  There are 2 dealers in San Diego county that call me to help them fix the older Volvos because the mechanics there have no experience with them.

I was lucky enough to find a mechanic in a small town in Bolivar Tn that helped me with mine when the rebuilt, the second one from ASI, crapped out on me. He was familiar with the Dodges. He was a great help. Just wish I knew where else to tell you to find one.

idle mode doesnt use the ecm to do anything if IIRC.  its just a closed loop on the pump that handles idling, am i correct?

15 minutes ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

idle mode doesnt use the ecm to do anything if IIRC.  its just a closed loop on the pump that handles idling, am i correct?

 

When the idle validation switch for idle is grounded the ECM ignores the APPS sensors and then relies strictly on the ECM software for idle.Being there is 3 modes of idle. You have normal curb idle at 850 RPM's, then there is normal 6 cylinder 1,200 RPM idle then last there is 3 cylinder 1,200 RPM idle where every other cylinder fires which is typically 4, 5, 6. So no its not a closed loop by handled by the injection pump. Yes the injection pump can produce idle on its own but there is other subfunctions of idle like anti-stall for the manuals that monitors the engine RPM's and throttles accordingly to prevent engine stalling during clutch engagement.

ahh, thanks mike, i learn something every day!

This is why I have problems with guys changing apps sensors for idling issues it's not apps issue typically. ECM is in full control at idle. Then the other is changing and/or cleaning the MAP and IAT sensors for idle problems neither really have control of idle either. ECT controls idle speed.

OK guys, wondering about couple items here. Got new ECM installed and truck runs good. Went to check alternator for AC noise as recommended and I'm getting .02 VAC readings. This should be good, right? So why did my ECM go south then? Is there anything else to check to prevent this from happening again? 

 

Edited March 20, 20178 yr by winch_warrior

.02 Vac is good.  Can't say why it went bad other than it is a 25 year old obsolete computer that is subject to high heat and vibrations.

my oe went back 2010. Ran a little funny one day then went the next. Ran the same alternator for quite awhile afterwards. I did not know about AC voltage then. Not sure what killed mine.

Just curious.........With a new ECM why wouldn't the ECM manufacture require that you check your alternator for warranty puposes since this is such a problem with "killing" ECM's or VP44's? 

None of the ECM or VP44 re-builders (Industrial Injection) make any mention of this............just curious?

Edited March 21, 20178 yr by winch_warrior

Dunno call and ask them.   

 

It is impossible to think that AC noise is good for a DC device.  Look at the various devices out there and the circuity in place to protect them from AC noise.  

Wondering who you got your ECM from? I have lots of codes on mine one of them is the P0606. It started about 100 miles ago with P0237 and P0112 and would go into limp mode.  I would clear the codes and would keep coming back. Removed and checked over entire wiring harness with big bulb test. Replaced boost sensor and IAT. Just had the alternator rebuilt and new tensioner assembly. Alternator had .068 volts ac current before being rebuilt.  Just installed alternator tonight and cleared codes. Codes that came back with scanner are 

P0606

P0237

P0123

P0118

P0112

with the key trick I get all these codes plus 

P0343

P0577

P1286

I don't understand why the scanner doesn't get the same codes as the key trick. 

I can see live data with the scanner I am using. Throttle position when getting live data from the ECM smooth transition from 0% to 100%. When viewing TPS through the PCM it is at 7.38% and only goes to 68.68% with pedal on the floor. Does anyone have an explanation for this.  Aux input/ PTO keeps switching from active to inactive. Boost pressure goes from 5.98 down to 2.98. IAT goes from a normal reading down to -40F. Coolant temp reads normal then spikes to 293 F. Also throttle position on the scanner will go from 0 to 100% with out touching pedal. Trying to give as much information as possible.

 

My truck I have owned since new. 

2002 QCSB HO 6 speed 125 FASS lift pump and MBRP 4 inch exhaust. Everything else is stock. No tuners ever

I would check for a short in your 5v reference sensors, but I am gonna bet dimes to dollars ECM is toasty.  If you dont want to jump to ECM I would clean EVERY plug under the hood with dielectric grease.  also go  to the articles section and look at wiring for the ECM test all wires for shorts

29 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

I would check for a short in your 5v reference sensors, but I am gonna bet dimes to dollars ECM is toasty.  If you dont want to jump to ECM I would clean EVERY plug under the hood with dielectric grease.  also go  to the articles section and look at wiring for the ECM test all wires for shorts

Thanks for the input. I said 100 miles ago but this is not my daily driver. I have been watching this site for the past couple of months and trying to do most anything that was posted about ECM problems. 

 

All ground have been checked and cleaned. All plugs have been checked and dielectric compound on them. 

As far as codes I have got high and low circuit input codes for all sensors at sometime or another during this process. And followed the guidelines for trouble shooting the DTCs

 

Thanks to to everyone that posts and replies to the forums it has been a great tool and reference for me. The wiring diagrams are also a great help. I have a copy printed off and keep it in my tool box. 

Does your Wait To Start light come on when you key on?   

when my ECM went I got many codes as you. Temp spikes from a cold , all kinds of whacky stuff. Thought i never got the 606, if did turn out to be what was wrong.

8 hours ago, Me78569 said:

Does your Wait To Start light come on when you key on?   

Wait to start works comes on and cycles properly. Truck starts ok and idles good for a short time. Then engine rpms are all over the place with no pedal movement. If I try to use the accelerator pedal at all (5%)the engine speed slowly climbs to 2500 rpm but will fall right back to idle when the pedal is released.

Yea ECM time

I agree the ECM is cooked. Make sure to verify the alternator before installing another ECM.