Upfront: I apologize for the length but I am exhausted.

I am nearly convinced my 99 is too old for parts support, or I’m the ONLY one to experience a FAILED 98.5-2002 ECM.

I have dedicated days and nights searching the Internet for a REBUILDER with phone follow-ups. 
The Internet is abound with enticing websites, pictures of pristine Integrated Circuit Boards, immaculate state-of-art facilities, complete with "experts" in uniform lab coats, headgear, and nitrate gloves peering into high powered microscopes - methodically examining/testing every component to exacting standards.  Each facility promises the "perfect", “tested under all conditions”, "sleep well at night"  product.  All you need to provide is  your VIN, Transmission, ECM Code and … your CREDIT CARD information.

Prices range from $236 for a “repair” to a RECON $2334.90 + 303.75 core available in 24 at Cummins.  And least I not forget the bone yards…which now seek all the market will bear.  For example: There’s one on EBay for 900+ and…they want a CORE in return.  

Curious, I even drove some distance and visited one of these "future technology" facilities.  In all honesty, it was nothing but a defunct run-down warehouse with questionable equipment/qualifications.

Reviews are no help.  EBay might give a facility glowing reviews, but when you drill down to the local reviews (I.e. Yelp), some actually start out with "Buyer Beware".  Many reviewers claim poor/rude communication experiences, multiple returns with endless accounts of Emails/phone calls not being answered/returned.  Some comments substituted random alpha-numeric characters for their expletives.  Included were experiences whereby the Seller/Builder tried to skirt the coveted “Lifetime Warranty” carrot. 


Alas, my question to Forum:
Has “anyone” used an ECM rebuilder/supplier that actually provided a reputable product, willingly kept their word, and stood behind it?  If so, how long has the replacement been in service and were there any issues and finally a name please?  I'll even take secretive recommendations via PM.

Thanks.

Leaky 

 

Yes it is replaceable. Just got to get the can opened up. Then carefully unsolder the two memory chips and solder on the new ones. The Mylar PCB is glued to the aluminium can so it might make soldering challenging.

Moparman, I have been reading past post where you were exploring these 2nd Gen ECM's.  What about getting a Chinese company to replicate the boards?  At least a prototype.  I think there would be a market for them. 

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Yes it is replaceable. Just got to get the can opened up. Then carefully unsolder the two memory chips and solder on the new ones. The Mylar PCB is glued to the aluminium can so it might make soldering challenging.

 

What if you mixed copper dust with epoxy would that make a good cold solder?

 

I am assuming the aluminum case takes heat away from the solder making it difficult so that's why I ask...

Edited June 30, 20177 yr by JAG1

 

On ‎6‎/‎15‎/‎2017 at 10:34 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

That is because stock lift pumps don't have protection relay. So when lockup motor occurs the high current burns the MOSFET in the ECM. As for the WTS light that is caused by high AC noise from the alternator damaging the RAM in the ECM causing boot errors that make it longer to boot as it keeps retry.

As discussed, the AC noise damages the RAM, I got it.  Would the damaged RAM also account for why the WTS does not come on at all, but after the truck sits for a couple of days, and when the switch is turned on, the WTS comes on immediately and you are able to bump the engine and get the LIFT to cycle for 25s.?  Thanks Leaky

Just keeps getting better. 

-FRIDAY, I tried another "used" (borrowed) Cummins 3942336 - Plug and Play, suppose to work with no issues.

-WTS came on immediately first time, bumped engine and Lift Pump cycled 25s. Engine started.  No codes. 

-Shut it down after about 3 mins.

 

-Turned key. 

-WTS DID NOT come on.

-Bumped Engine, no LIFT pump cycling. 

-Turned key further, it STARTS.  BUT there is no indication of fuel pressure on (Mechanical Gauge).  ZERO!  Yet, it is idling. AND no, I did not take it for a test drive and would not without a wrecker behind me. I have not driven the thing since this nightmare with the ECM began. 

 

I'm so gun shy with the AC Noise, I checked it after start-up and it was .04 MAX.   No not the best, but within higher tolerance range.  

 

My question is how does it run with no fuel pressure? Further,

The WTS should come on each and every time, IMMEDIATELY after key is turned on.  YES/NO?

Should I not be able to bump engine and get the LIFT Pump to cycle any/every time?  Or is this an unrealistic expectation? 

 

Last but not least, which time span  of DODGE Trucks don't have all these ECM problems?  I'm in the market for one at this point.

Thanks.

 

Leaky 

The truck will run and drive with 0 fuel pressure. The VP is capable of pulling its own fuel and will. It will just grind itself to pieces with out the lift pump. That being said when I lost the oe lift pump the truck died and did not run until it was replaced. When my AD died the truck ran fine. I cant explain why. 

 

The WTS light will not come back on every time unless you wait around 15 to 30 seconds before key on. So if you shut it down and quickly turned the key back on you will experience what you did. 

 

As far as ECM issues, 12V trucks dont have them so no issues. My oe ECM only lasted about 8 years before it died with little to no warning. Started acting up one day and a couple days later I was sitting on the side of the road. Failed completely different than what you are experiencing. 

Dripley,

Thanks.

I did NOT let it idle long when I saw it had no fuel pressure.  I would not drive the truck after purchase until I had a gauge and aftermarket LIFT - thanks to you guys on Forums. 

 

Learning more every minute. Got a WORD file full of Cut and Pastes from Forums.  Might need a Desk Top drive for ECM file that amassing. 

OK. I will check with WTS after a 15-30 second wait time.  I was ignorant of this.

Maybe the WTS is not an issue with this ECM.  Perhaps the Mosfet's are dying.

 

Onward.  Thanks Leaky 

 

 

Well I am sure this will get reaction but here goes. My AD pump went out about 3 years ago. Not sure how long the fuse had been blown just checked the gauge and it was on 0. Something happened to the pump and it blew the fuse. Bad seal in it most likely. The truck ran fine and I was in a position that I had to drive it. Now I only made 3 short trips in it till the new pump got to me. Still have the same VP today. 

 I am by no means advising you or anyone else do that. It was choice that I made with my own stuff and I could have really screwed up. I never want to do it again.

Possibly the used ecm you installed is not triggering the lift pump as it should, Fist thing I would do is verify fuel pressure with a second gauge and wire lift pump directly to battery for verification purpose just to see if it is the ecm. not triggering your lift pump on.

Go easy on the quick cycling of the key for the "prime" hits of the lift pump and WTS lights. 

 

I do not know the programming, or how it is programmed, but if you quickly bump then shut off and re-bump, the WTS light and lift pump timers get out of whack.(good IT approved technical term.  Hold over from the mechanical timer days!!!)     Give the system a good amount of time to reset the timers or you will chase your tail.

 

HTH

Hag

9 hours ago, Haggar said:

Go easy on the quick cycling of the key for the "prime" hits of the lift pump and WTS lights. 

 

I do not know the programming, or how it is programmed, but if you quickly bump then shut off and re-bump, the WTS light and lift pump timers get out of whack.(good IT approved technical term.  Hold over from the mechanical timer days!!!)     Give the system a good amount of time to reset the timers or you will chase your tail.

 

HTH

Hag

Hag,

Thanks.  Point well taken.  I appreciate your input. Leaky