I know this topic can get a little heated so I'm really not trying to start that up, just want to gather some info.

 

It's time for another oil change and I'm doing it myself. My dealer raised their prices so it no longer makes sense to take it to them. Here's my questions

 

1. Currently have 15w-40 dino oil and looking to swap to synthetic. I've only seen Amsoil that has a synthetic 15w-40, does anyone else?

2. If I do put something like Rotella T6 5w-40, what's the chances of making leaks worse or appear?

3. Should I even worry about running a lighter weight oil when my current climate never see's 0* or below temps?

More of a PSA than anything....

 

There is a local company near me called Lott Oil. I'm sure a lot of towns have little oil companies like it, open to the public distributors that is.

 

I bought a 5 Gal bucket of T3/4 Rotella for about $40. The local parts store is like $65 They have all the other fluids you may want as well. When I changed the fluid in my IH 886 (25 Gal of HyTran), it was about $150 cheaper there than anywhere else in town. 

 

So, if you have one, local oil companies can have very good deals. 

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Order 12 and get real deal,. Just kidding. I bought 10 the first time but used them up in just over 2 years. My truck travels a whole lot more than yours.

 I also bought a case a while back, I think I'm halfway through.

4 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

 I also bought a case a while back, I think I'm halfway through.

When l first started using them l changed the oil 7500 but go 10k so they last a bit longer. Last couple years I have racked about 40k a year. IlRC the filter is rated for 25k but is your oil rated that good? My rear main is leaking and in that 10k  l will put 10 or 11 quarts in. Keep figuring I will fix the seal when I get my 6 speed overhauled. Any body got a spare $3k?

22 minutes ago, dripley said:

When l first started using them l changed the oil 7500 but go 10k so they last a bit longer. Last couple years I have racked about 40k a year. IlRC the filter is rated for 25k but is your oil rated that good? My rear main is leaking and in that 10k  l will put 10 or 11 quarts in. Keep figuring I will fix the seal when I get my 6 speed overhauled. Any body got a spare $3k?

What do you think of a g56

27 minutes ago, dripley said:

When l first started using them l changed the oil 7500 but go 10k so they last a bit longer. Last couple years I have racked about 40k a year. IlRC the filter is rated for 25k but is your oil rated that good? My rear main is leaking and in that 10k  l will put 10 or 11 quarts in. Keep figuring I will fix the seal when I get my 6 speed overhauled. Any body got a spare $3k?

How has your clutch survived a leaky rear main?

Just now, That Guy said:

How has your clutch survived a leaky rear main?

I can only think the oil just drools down and stays off the clutch itself. I am having a harder time with the clutch disengaging without the clutch mashed into the floor of late. Like the the pilot bearing is failing. Just wont know until I pull it all, just dealing with it for now. Lucky I guess for now.

33 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

What do you think of a g56

I have thought about them. If they could be bolted in with no mods that would be plus. Also thought about a 4500 but I dont think my drive shaft will work with one. I dont tow any these days and always thought one might be a better DD. Though I have always liked my 6 speed. Are G56's any lighter on the wallet?

36 minutes ago, dripley said:

Are G56's any lighter on the wallet?

I believe they are lighter by waight and guessing price since there are more common at this time. Seems everyone is proud of their 5600 and don't give them away. I had a chance to buy one used with 180k on it for 1k I think is what he came down to, bigger shaft too and I just backed out for few reasons, one being g56 and other rebuilding mine myself some day. Now I'm not sure what I would do, probably search for a used 5600 and if no luck go with g56 and same model transfer case like @TFaoro did. Or mine may last forever as much as I change fluids 

42 minutes ago, dripley said:

If they could be bolted in with no mods that would be plus.

May need different clutch, but if your pilot is going out and who knows how the clutch looks like, maybe an option to get the whole set up, clutch tranny and tcase, then driveshafts I guessing. Still if you get a deal may be cheaper then rebuilding Nv5600

The G56 was built with the dual mass flywheel and very conservative lugging power in mind. Be careful if you pull from 1500 rpm up. They do not tolerate lugging and chatter more than their cast iron counter parts when lugged. The stock tune on the 6.7 w/ the G56 has very little power before 1700 rpm.  The autos feel like rockets by comparison.

 

Need a need a different crossmember, or to notch the stock one heavily. 

 

I was wanting a G56 in my 12v once I experienced one in the 2009 C&C we had. Still considering it, but it isn't going to happen till the 4500 breaks first.

^^^^ True point. Dad used to lug his 09 figuring it's a diesel, that's what it's for. I mostly agreed until his dual mass grenaded and took the clutch with it at 60k miles. After some research it appears many get rid of the dual mass junk and opt. for a solid flywheel before they have trouble. Other than that it's a pretty good transmission with parts still available.