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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

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Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I get the head off without removing studs looks pretty close. I will take the head to machine shop to surface and maybe even check for cracks, since I heard 24 valve heads like to crack sometimes. Will probably do a valve job and new seals at the same time. Not sure about ringing the head. The T at the back of the head, what's the best way going about it. Thanks for any advice. I will probably be lining up parts for a while and keep driving the truck,  unless it gets real bad or just blows out. I'm guessing there is an oil passage somewhere up front, just not sure how it's getting pushed out, oil pump pressure? Does it have something to do with coolant, I don't think I'm using any, maybe a little I had to put about a quart in the other day, will keep an eye on it. 

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Edited by Dieselfuture

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  • The people that tell you to sell old and buy new know nothing about fixing vehicles nor do they work on them. I work on hybrids and electrics. There is a huge disconnect between the end user and the v

  • Dieselfuture
    Dieselfuture

    Alright guys and gals, got my turbo today. I'm giving it 9 out of 10 and this is before driving the truck. Came with cnc machined beer opener. On first glance it looks good, on closer observation I've

  • Dieselfuture
    Dieselfuture

    Trying to get valves out so I can take this thing in to shop. What's the best way to release keepers, I usually slightly tap on them and they  come apart, but these are stubborn. @TFaoro @jlbayes @trr

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Mine did that too. Just sucks when you have to guess about the turbo timer because the quad reads 1600* at idle lol. But easy and cheap to replace. DAP has them. 

  • Author

Ok got to drive it a bit. First I didn't have a thermostat in and temp never went above 134, my warm up setting is 140 so it was on default profile. Most boost I could get standing on the pedal was 20. It does spool slower and not as high but I think once I get the qwad diled in it should be much better. When I put thermostat in I was able to get 26psi on level 3 on my economy tune, which is more smokyer on take off now, injectors must be that much bigger. I'm at 90 on start canbus will try 80 and ramp it up quicker because once that turbo start to spool around 15-16rpm it gets up in boost quick. Ether way I need to spend some time tuning now. Definitely more whistle out of exhaust now, sounds like mack truck, I did put my silencer ring in, and I don't think it changed much up front.

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

When I put thermostat in I was able to get 26psi on level 3 on my economy tune, which is more smokyer on take off now, injectors must be that much bigger.

He did

  • Author

Did it again with maxed out canbus and wiretap at 1200 and got it to 30psi, pretty sure it pulls a lot harder then before at 30. I'll probably need 100hp injectors for this turbo to make it ideal, but will use what I got for now. My starting point for canbus is 80 with a 3 fore curve, by 20 psi canbus is maxed out or even sooner. Starting at 80 still got some smoke but not bad, clears out for the most part. Will be doing lots more testing.

Edited by Dieselfuture

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Do you guys think I need to change oil after what I did. It looks good and I have a bypass filter too. Kinda feels like a waste of good oil, but if there is a good reason I'll change it. It has 3k on it but still somewhat clean on dipstick. No moisture observed. 

Another thing is I flushed my cooling system like 7 times and every time I went for a few mile drive and drained water out it looked rusty. I think our city water is corosive and that's what caused it every time. So I flushed it wit distilled water and put coolant back in. This is what I was draining every time. But I would get it all out every time too, after driving a bit that's what drained out.

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By the way I beat the crap out of the truck today trying to figure new turbo out, so far so good :burnout:

Edited by Dieselfuture

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Well I'm now trying to figure out how to stop this housing from leaking, I'm about ready to use rtv. I rotated it and had no luck stopping this pretty good size leak. Any ideas. 

And tested waste gate and my boos elbow. Waste gate by it self opens around 29-30 and I got boost elbow adjusted to open at 38. 

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That would explain why you weren't building much boost...  Is the housing seated all the way?  I know @TFaoro had issues with his HE351 not sealing on the compressor housing..  Or there is an o-ring that could be used to seal it up

  • Author

So I think I found part of the problem. The lip on compressor housing that seals against bearing housing was pitted, so I used valve grinding compound and made a nice line like on a valve when you lap them. Actually small machine marks from bearing housing transferred to compressor housing. Now it doesn't leak till about 20 psi and then it still bubbles. So now I'm thinking it's the clip maybe, but it's in as far as it can go. So now I'm starting to consider rtv, it's not right but kinda running out if options, already wasted enough time. Also found a small leak on intake plenum, had to put more dope on threads. You can see a bit better how exhaust housing is peated.

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  • Author

So after another 3 attempts of trying to fit it without a leak I gave up and used more lapping compound and got a nice imprint in compressor housing. That's what finally did it is a smove surface. So I'm taking another star off, they now get 8 out 10. I'll be calling Zach and letting him know. If he knows what he is doing then his help needs to know too. In my mind they should bench test housings for leaks. And using bolts that are beraly in is just :clap:...... I don't think anything was done on purpose just simply things got overlooked. 

 

 About the rock solid bushing, it fixed more loud clunk I had when turning onto a curb or bump, and it does feel a bit smover in column. Still valve very faint click lossnes but over all it improved. @dripley @trreed

Also something to add, after fixing boost leak it spools sooner now, and on the same tune when I could only hit 29-30 psi I now can get 36 and that's pretty much maxed out canbus and 1800 wire tap. At full throttle at 3000 rpm still blowing some smoke, I would think it should spool more if there is unburnt fuel. On my economy tune I have almost no smoke at all on level 3 is where I keep it and I can very easy max out canbus and 30psi is all I can get without wiretap. But overall I'm happy with the outcome, best thing is no leaks so far, and I've been fricking out a bit as much as I bit it after new head gasket. 

Edited by Dieselfuture

I never had any of the typical symptoms the rock solid said it would address so I never got one. I do have a slight grind when I get wheel near a full revolution to the right. I figure there is a bearing of sorts on the upper end the needs my attention.It is going to get it soon but just have to much on the plate at the moment. Thought it might be the clock spring since I was having other issues but I replace it last week and the grind is still there. I can hear and feel the vibration but there is no more resistance while steering.

 

For sure let Zach know. I have used rtv on more than one turbo in my day to get them to seal. He351s are terrible about leaking.

Also I wonder if the bolts come with the back plate, as a kit. Something else I'd bring up.

  • Author

Went on a 200 mile trip and I like it, no oil leaks boost is a little laggy but I'm getting used to it. After taking care of boost leaks it spools sooner and less smoke on take off. 

I swear this truck is alive and messing with me. The whole reason I had a turbo build is to keep the exhaust brake. So on the way home went to use it and nota, stopped at gas station and made sure nothing was obviously broken or lose. After few minutes it hit me. There is a control box that mounts under steering column, and it has a small adjustment screw. So when you use EB and forget to shut it off or just hit the go pedal it will disengage EB for you. So it was just out of adjustment. What are the chances of it malfunctioning the time I change turbo. 597761c0cc893_2017-07-2510_20_16.jpg.70427932c04d71a9e4d9f3e88d95a0a5.jpg

Edited by Dieselfuture

These trucks are alive. And the more you love them the more they hate you. @TFaoro and @jlbayes know this the best out of any of us. 

I can't answer to the likelihood of it malfunctioning in the time it took to change a turbo. Seems odd that a control box under the knee bolster would suddenly come loose. Maybe a coincidence?

Edited by trreed

  • Author
43 minutes ago, trreed said:

These trucks are alive. @TFaoro@jlbayesMaybe a coincidence?

No coincidence, thing is growing testicles, I mean tentacles.

Spoke with Zach today, he was really cool about everything, heard me out and send him few pictures of problems I had. I also explained him more on v2 tuning and gave him a link. He sounded exited. And he did say that using rtv is often what they recommend to seal compressor housing, obviously common sense is required on the amount of rtv. 

They're always mad about something. Since I got the electronics out of it, mine has been much better about being alive. I'm slowly getting it beat down.

  • Author

Yeah explain that to my wife. 

 

Me: Honey it's a good idea to keep my truck it's paid for I like it, enjoy driving it and comes in handy. 

Her: you always working on it, if it's not one thing it's another. 

Me: well it's an older vehicle it needs things once in a while. 

Her: it just seems like every few months you're fixing it, would of been better off buying a new one and trade it in before it breaks. 

Me: yeah but we don't want another payment, already have one on yours plus it will never be ours and they don't make em like they used to and price on a similar truck is way high I'd rather keep fixing mine. 

Her: well it's not just money it's your time too. Get a smaller truck I'm sure they're cheapper. So are you done fixing it now.

Me: for now yes it runs great but I can't see the future. And smaller truck take as much fuel and not something I want. 

Her: what else can possibly go wrong you must off fixed everything on it by now. 

Me: anything is possible, I try to take care of my things, you know. 

 

And this never stops, in her mind I'm an idiot,  in my mind I'm doing a right thing. Most of her friends have new cars, house etc, but hardly any of them have anything to their name,  bank owns it all. But they say we live once might as well engoy it. To each their own I guess. 

Funny thing, I spoke with Zach and kinda told him why I even got a turbo and had to spend money on head and seems like something else breaks, thought about maybe selling it few times but like it too much to do so. Well his reply was just like all of us think, yeah whatever you do don't get rid of it, I thought the same thing and sold mine for a newer one and still fixing it just more expensive. 

So this is for everyone that might feel this way once in a while. 

Edited by Dieselfuture

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.